Freelander 1 Fixed transverse link nut?
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Madmustang
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There is quite a bit on the freelander that is 18mm
A hangover from BMW I think. Almost nothing on a Rover is 18mm. There's loads of bolts and nuts on a BMW that are 18mm.
The mechanic said, that it would be an unusual size, almost none used in cars.
Tried to change the fixed link, but couldn’t get it off. The 18mm nut was easy, but the bolt didn‘t with the 15mm socket. Broke the 1/2“ to 3/8“ adapter off.
Would someone have some hints how to get that off? Sprayed it with Würth rust loosener before, but nothing. The long bolt in the hub doesn‘t move. Tried to do
it according to the rave info. Ordered now a 1/2“ socket for 15mm. Angle Grinder or would it be to lift, the whole bit, a bit to take of tension? Hammer didn‘t help either.
Tried to change the fixed link, but couldn’t get it off. The 18mm nut was easy, but the bolt didn‘t with the 15mm socket. Broke the 1/2“ to 3/8“ adapter off.
Would someone have some hints how to get that off? Sprayed it with Würth rust loosener before, but nothing. The long bolt in the hub doesn‘t move. Tried to do
it according to the rave info. Ordered now a 1/2“ socket for 15mm. Angle Grinder or would it be to lift, the whole bit, a bit to take of tension? Hammer didn‘t help either.
Madmustang
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You proberly need some heat on it
Those long bolts often need a 10 Ton press to get them out. Don't expect it to just slip out easily, because it won't. It'll fight you every step of the way.
Madmustang
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Mallet fired out of a howitzer
blodge
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Hi Matthias, looks like we both spent the weekend hammering at the same bolts.
Most of these have 15mm heads and 18mm nuts and are M12 threads.
The bolts at the top of the transverse links and the bottom of the longitudinal link are LR part number RYG000010 (M12 x 73mm) and the nut is part RYH100590
The long bolt through the hub carrier and the bottom of the transverse links is part number ANR5337 and the nut for this is ANR1000. All of these are M12 bolts but the long bolt has a finer pitch thread.
I got all of the bolts to move eventually using an impact driver, lots of releasing oil and a lot of hammering. The long bolt took me two hours to free and I had to heat the hub carrier on both sides to get any movement. Because the bolt is going through two rubber bushes and two close fitting holes in the hub carrier, you have to get all four joints moving before it will come out. It may be easier to cut the centre section of the bolt out (between the ribs of the hub carrier) and then work on the ends individually. You are almost certainly going to have to replace that bolt anyway.
I got stuck at the next stage (see thread on Rear Wheel Hub Stuck just above this one) - trying to get the driveshaft out but if you are just changing the transverse link you should not need to do that.
Good luck!
Most of these have 15mm heads and 18mm nuts and are M12 threads.
The bolts at the top of the transverse links and the bottom of the longitudinal link are LR part number RYG000010 (M12 x 73mm) and the nut is part RYH100590
The long bolt through the hub carrier and the bottom of the transverse links is part number ANR5337 and the nut for this is ANR1000. All of these are M12 bolts but the long bolt has a finer pitch thread.
I got all of the bolts to move eventually using an impact driver, lots of releasing oil and a lot of hammering. The long bolt took me two hours to free and I had to heat the hub carrier on both sides to get any movement. Because the bolt is going through two rubber bushes and two close fitting holes in the hub carrier, you have to get all four joints moving before it will come out. It may be easier to cut the centre section of the bolt out (between the ribs of the hub carrier) and then work on the ends individually. You are almost certainly going to have to replace that bolt anyway.
I got stuck at the next stage (see thread on Rear Wheel Hub Stuck just above this one) - trying to get the driveshaft out but if you are just changing the transverse link you should not need to do that.
Good luck!
Thanks, will keep that in mind. Trying to figure out why it‘s drinking 2.5l more per 100km than before.
Alibro
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Last time I took one of those long bolts out I had to cut it out and hammer the bejesus out of it. 
blodge
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I did get it out in one piece but it changed shape a little. Now trying to find the replacement one that DPD have delivered to a random address in Aberdeenshire!Last time I took one of those long bolts out I had to cut it out and hammer the bejesus out of it.
Madmustang
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Oil or Diesel?
Diesel
Madmustang
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Could be a dirty or failing Maf senor
Yes, I think so, discussed it here https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/td4-down-in-power-now-maf.331890/, tested and ordered a new one now. After unplugging it was like driving another car so much more power it had. Much better throttle response and less force needed. Ordered a Bosch one from Amazon for almost half price, but longer delivery, waiting for it at the moment. Thinking about if the Synergy could compensate in the meantime as I wanted to get one anyway.
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