FIXED!!! Early 90 door lock barrel replacement problem

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So it all spins around in the lock but the bearing prevents the two from spinning against each other (if that makes any sense at all!)

Thanks Nick, that helps as the barrel and the holder don't turn together and don't grip and it feels lose.
Now to find a small BB and have another go...
 
capo said:
So it all spins around in the lock but the bearing prevents the two from spinning against each other (if that makes any sense at all!)

Thanks Nick, that helps as the barrel and the holder don't turn together and don't grip and it feels lose.
Now to find a small BB and have another go...
Click to expand...

Yeh the small ball bearings are vital. I had to put new ones in when I did this. I might have the pack I bought somewhere at home. If so I'll stick em in the post. No promises I can find them tho
 
payydg said:
Yeh the small ball bearings are vital. I had to put new ones in when I did this. I might have the pack I bought somewhere at home. If so I'll stick em in the post. No promises I can find them tho
Click to expand...
Cheers for that very kind. I'll cover postage and other expenses if you find them. Still unsure how and where they go... I only saw one bearing.
Capo
 
capo said:
Cheers for that very kind. I'll cover postage and other expenses if you find them. Still unsure how and where they go... I only saw one bearing.
Capo
Click to expand...

There's a small hole in the metal tube he barrel slides into you have to put them in and then put the barrel. I thinks that's how I did it. It was a while and many beers ago.

I'll see what I can
Find
 
Got a couple of 3/16' BB, placed a dab of vaseline on the balls and set them in the grooves on the barrel holder, wiggled the holder in the hole from the inside and slid the barrel in from the outside. During jiggling the two parts together one ball fell out, but I screwed the hex nut into the back of the barrel, shut the door and tried the lock. No more spinning barrel but it still won't lock. :(
I suppose it needs both balls or I'm doing something wrong or is something inside the lock mechanism busted? Found 4 more 3/16s so I'll have another go tomorrow trying to get both balls in, as it were.
 
Mine only had one ball bearing - although I see from other threads it IS supposed to have two - and it still works, so I don't think it's that. Or at least, not JUST that, although it might not be helping! When you say it's not spinning but it won't lock, is it rotating as it should (ie 180deg) but the door still opens (and shuts) normally? Or it's no longer rotating at all?
 
I'll be doing the same thing very soon with my lift up 110 doors as I've no keys. I'll go at it very carefully and slowly, try to understand in reverse where you're going wrong.
 
I give up as it looks like the inner lining of the barrel holder is broken, probably as a result of my drilling the seized barrel out! The pic - not the lock in question - shows the outer barrel holder and inner lining - not exactly the same lock so ignore the outer rim -
Untitled.png
I'm missing the left side part of the inner lining with the notch at the top, so that's why the barrel isn't securing and engaging!
Anyone got a spare MUC2290.........
 
Capo, sorry, I’ve only just seen your thread. You need 5mm diameter ball bearings, not 3/16” as I found out. Two per barrel with lots of grease packed in. Then assemble the rear part with the thread in until it seats solidly, then the tab washer and bolt. Don’t forget to bend the tab washer to lock the bolt in place.
 
Thanks Karl, 3/16 was a loose fit probably why one ball kept on falling out! The grease helped but lock's still os.
I think I've buggered the barrel holder, see above, now looking if I can repair the sleeve.
I remember when folk were getting rid of LUH, as common as hens teeth now!
 
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Just checked, 5mm = 3/16", 7mm = 1/4" so 3/16" should be ok.

*Edited to add that 5mm = 13/64'' not 3/16", which is 4.7625mm (close enough but enough for them to not locate properly)
 
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capo said:
Just checked, 5mm = 3/16", 7mm = 1/4" so 3/16 is ok.
Click to expand...

I bought 3/16” originally having been told they were the right size but they dropped into the cylinder too deep. Bear in mind 3/16” = 4.76mm, not 5mm. The 5mm ones worked perfect for me in my locks but this is Land Rover so it may not be the same across the board!
 
@Karls
Thanks for the update; you are right that 3/16" = 4.7625mm which is a tad smaller than 5mm, so I'll try and get some 5mm.
I'm will also try and repair the inner sleeve, maybe some plastic metal to build it up enough to secure the barrel?
The missing bit is outlined in red....
broken barrel sleeve[1].png
 
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Took the whole lock and handle assembly out of the door, unscrewed barrel and holder and found the 5 ball bearings I'd lost in previous attempts.
Put it back together again with 2x 5mm = 13/64 BB rather than 4.76mm = 3/16. And it now works, locks and unlocks. Not sure what I did, maybe the excess BB were preventing the barrel from turning.

Moral of the story....if you own an early Ninety/OneTen with the Santana LuH door locks and want to change the locks, be careful when removing the barrel that your don't lose your two balls :eek:
 
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F7842069-790A-4810-86A6-6DB87A558F48.jpeg
ABC495E8-6A4E-40B9-8B5F-FBF6CF14B92E.jpeg
@capo I too have a lift-up handle / lock from an early 90 without keys and looking to fix. I’ve purchased locks MUC4146 (which I believe are the correct ones) and have the handle off so I can work on it easier.

How do I remove the old lock and after your recent experiences, any tips?

Cheers
(Photos attached)
 
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Hi @jsstevo

That door lock assembly with the internal locking tab looks more like a Series or rear safari door or military spec items but no matter.

There are two types of lock barrels for the early lift up handles:
  • a long one with a bolt that screws into the end (MUC4146) this holds it in the lock barrel holder;
MUC4146[1].jpg IMG_0819[1].jpg upload_2018-3-12_11-46-35.png Untitled2[1].png Untitled[1].png
Note the screw hole in the end - you will need the screw and locking tab to secure this type. Part #9 sits in the inside of the barrel holder, lock barrel slides from outside into this and secured with #7& #8. There are two ball bearings to fit and these are a right PITA! You need 5mm diameter ball bearings, two per barrel with lots of grease packed in. Then assemble the rear part with the thread in until it seats solidly, then the tab washer and bolt. Don’t forget to bend the tab washer to lock the bolt in place.
  • a short one (MTC6504) with a little spring loaded pin that needs to be depressed to pull the barrel out - put the key in and turn it to unlocked, and then you push the pin which will release it if you wiggle the key too because you need to have the tumblers retracted for it to slide out and these can catch a bit; it could also be seized in. Note the depressible pin at end of barrel. Access to it is via a hole in the barrel holder (circled in red):
MTC6504_LARGE[1].jpg Capture.JPG

Also note that there are locks similar to MTC6504 to fit in the 'modern' push button door handles - they are shorter still and will not fit the old locks (as I found out the hard way!!).

The only issue I see is you don't have any keys. You could try a mates as LR locks and keys seem to be quite flexible or you'll have to drill the old barrel out of the holder (see this thread and also https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/door-quandary-whats-your-views.320627/#post-4080467)
Good luck!
 

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