Freelander 2 (LR2) First post on FL2 section

Hi peoples.
After owning a disco 2 for the past 5 years I've gone out and bought a Freelander 2, GS, 2007, fsh, one owner from new with 95k miles.
My question is as I already have a Nanocom would you lot recommend a new fault code reader or pay for the unlock code for the Nanocom and use that.
Have seen the Gap 11b recommend but not really wanting to spend £500 on one if there's something that's cheaper.
Any other help and advice will be gratefully received.
Discovery is up for sale if anyone is interested, 119k, 2002,GS, 2nd owner, rust free. VGC.

First off do a full fluids change on all the transmission components, Haldex, PTU, gearbox, and rear diff. Check for metallic particulates in the fluids that come out, and prepare to replace any components where there is metal found.

The transmission components, particularly the rear diff, Haldex and PTU are very susceptible to damage from degraded fluid , and aren't part of the routine schedule. LR specification says new fluid at 150k or 10 years, however none of these components last that long (the rear diff fails for fun anyway, due to the bearings being over tight from the factory), if fluids aren't done.
I know nothing about Nanocom.

The GAP IID while good on the D3/4, RRS and FFRR, is very restricted on the FL2, to the point it's useless.
I actually bought an IID based on my experience of it on my D3, then discovered that it covers almost nothing on the FL2.
I now have copied version of JRL SDD and a Mongoose clone lead, which while a pain to get working on an old laptop, is miles better than any other diagnostic equipment, especially as it costs about £35 + an old laptop. Be aware that the FL2 ECM/PTM/ECU doesn't support PID feedback, so you can't get information on injector offsets, or other key diagnostic information, even on the LR diagnostic equipment (SDD), which makes fault finding a PITA.

The early FL2 has port deactivation flaps (often called swirl flaps), but these have been known to break off, and get ingested by the engine, which obviously causes damage. Its well worth spending a couple of hours to remove them from the intake manifold.

Otherwise enjoy it, as when they are working, they are very very good.

Thanks Nodge68 for your detailed reply.
Picked the car up yesterday and been checking paperwork thoroughly. Haldex fluids and filter and seals were rellaced 10k ago. PAS fluid was changed 4k ago along with new resevoir, pressure and return PAS pipes and supply pipe from pump and low pressure pipe and intake pipe. At the same time new high level brake light and new brake sheilds were fitted at a cost of £720 at Steve Toyer Landrover in Penryn.
Masses of receipts for maintenance and other work all at supplying dealer and aforementioned independent so hopefully everything looks well looked after.
The only concern is the rear sear cushions were damp as had obviously got wet from what looks like carrying garden waste in the boot and has caused the seat belt anchor points to have surface rust.
Going to remove and clean them up and apply some rust converter.
Hopefully I'll have lots of years of surprisingly trouble free motoring, like I had with the Disco.

If you remove the belt anchorage bolts, then I believe they need replacing, as they are torque to yield bolts.

I personally wouldn't remove them at all, as a bit of surface corrosion isn't going to effect the strength.
Maybe just give them a careful clean with a dry soft brush, making sure not to damage the belt fabric.

I'd also recommend changing the rear diff oil, unless done recently, as these diffs are badly designed and manufactured, allowing the bearings to overheat in operation, causing them to become noisy at the least, and seize the rear diff solid at worst, which is bloody frightening, as I found out from personally experience, just before Christmas.