First gear thrust washer

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I'm confused enough thank you! Not sure that the bush is actually clamped by the washer because if the endfloat is right, the washer shouldn't touch the bush. The bush turns with the shaft due to the splines in the inside.

In a fit of despair, I rescued the old 1/2 sychro from the scrap bin and fitted that. Using as much pressure as I could on the thrust washer, first gear still turns freely.
Thus I forced to conclude that the inner hub of the new unit is slightly longer than the old one. Can't measure it because my mics aren't big enough.
All the wear on the old unit seems to be on the (dog?) teeth of the outer hub, so could I use the inner from the old unit with the new outer? Or is that stupid?

bush is splined to the shaft and when thrust washer is pressed againsty it 1st gear shouldnt be trapped it should slide up and down bush by 4 -8 thou (endfloat)synchro hub has no effect as a thicker hub just pushes bush further to the rear by some thou ,bush has to be longer than the gear is thick , synchro hubs are matched units and should be marked before disassembly to ensure they are but back in the same orientation/tooth position, unless a step has worn on synchro hub or thrust washer the length of bush is what determines 1st gears endfloat
 
I think you've fingered it. The bush is shorter than the gear because I shortened it to get the clearance with the new hub.
So I either have to use the old hub inner or machine the new one down. Don't know which is least bad, really.
 
I think you've fingered it. The bush is shorter than the gear because I shortened it to get the clearance with the new hub.
So I either have to use the old hub inner or machine the new one down. Don't know which is least bad, really.

fit new hub unit as you have, buy another bush ,check 1st gear has enough endfloat and not too much, dont muck with synchro hubs
 
Don't want to mess with the hub really. I accidentally pushed the hub too far on a previous one and the balls and springs fired impressively long distances in various directions.

Trouble is, if I get another bush and set the endfloat like the manual says (without first gear present) then it will be too short again. Is it possible to set the endfloat by measuring the clearance between the gear and the washer rather than the bush and washer.

And thanks for all your advice.
 
Don't want to mess with the hub really. I accidentally pushed the hub too far on a previous one and the balls and springs fired impressively long distances in various directions.

Trouble is, if I get another bush and set the endfloat like the manual says (without first gear present) then it will be too short again. Is it possible to set the endfloat by measuring the clearance between the gear and the washer rather than the bush and washer.

And thanks for all your advice.

how can you set endfloat without 1st gear ?as long as 1st gear has the right amount of endfloat dont worry about the washer and bush clearance,when you tighten nut recheck 1st gear still has endfloat
 
how can you set endfloat without 1st gear ?...

erm, that's a question to which I don't know the answer. In the landrover manual (and Haynes) it says to set the endfloat of the bush against the washer without first gear present. But now you mention it that seems strange!
 
how can you set endfloat without 1st gear ?as long as 1st gear has the right amount of endfloat dont worry about the washer and bush clearance,when you tighten nut recheck 1st gear still has endfloat
I too don't get what determines the end float on 1st gear. For the all synchro 2a/3, the bush to thrust washer end float (2 to 7 thou) basically ensures that the bush is not too long that it prevents the thrust washer seating properly on the mainshaft. You then fit 1st gear and check the endfloat between the gear and the thrust washer. Mine is 10 thou. Spec is 4 to 8 thou. There is no wear on the gear or thrust washer, so where is it coming from?? Anyone know? Thanks!
 
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