First check-up after 5 years idle

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vasimone said:
@jamesmartin thanks very much for pointing out the various parts numbers - i have a few questions after having done some further research today:

*Upper arm bushing x 4 do you mean A fram bushes – I guess so?

Axle ball joint x 2 chrome ball ?*

Q1: This is how the L/R Specialist (??) mechanic here called the parts needed – I guess these are the A Frame parts (bushes + ball joint)? These would be x2 and x4 because of the middle and rear axle I guess. For these do you have any recommendation on which one to buy? Is there any meaningful upgrade that is worth doing ? I did some research and found on Paddock this one (heavyduty TRE76RS) and this one that is interesting as has a greater articulation (DA1129ULTRA) – what are your thoughts?

*Lower arm bushings x4 ?*

Q2: If upper arm bushing is the A frame what could lower arm be ? May be lower arm was an old way of referring to it

*Mountain sit x 4 ?*

Q3:May be they meant mounting-rubbers? What are these for and would you need 4 of them?

*Drop arm repair kit stc3295 or rbg000010 *

Q4:The one I found is for PAS ? I guess that is power assisted steering right? is there any meaningful upgrade to be done whilst I am at it ? There is the option of the defender drop arm is swapped with the one of the discovery (http://www.gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/produ...eering-drop-arm-ball-joint-conversion-hd-kit/) – what are the benefits making it worth doing besides easier replacement ? else I have seen where they put a grease nipple in the drop arm (http://www.landroverblogger.com/land-rover-steering-drop-arm-ball-joint) so that it’s easier to grease and should last longer… what are your thoughts?


*Timing belt 200tdi etc8550*

Q5:The mechanic was not able to inspect the timing belt but just said that to be on the safe side is best to change this because we don’t know the km and maintenance of the 200tdi engine that got fit in by the previous owner – would you also recommend to change it which would mean having the mechanic to play around with the engine a bit?

Speedometer cable for 300tdi defender prc6022 if rhd or prc6021 if lhd

Q6:Do you need also one for the odometer or is the same one?

Accelerator cable for diesel ntc9360 if rhd ntc9359 if lhd

Q7:So there is no difference if the car is petrol or diesel in this piece?

Air filter for petrol 3.5 v8 rtc3479

Q8:If I have a 200TDI and the cleaner element is of a 3.5 V8 it’s fine? If I want to fit a snorkel in the future would I need to change the air filter type or everything would stay as is and so it makes sense to buy now a new air filter? Wheely has its air intake on top of the wings (both sides). Would this meat cutting a hole in the wing to fit a snorkel or on the side?

Sedimentor for diesel defender + hose for diesel in and out

Q9:I have a petrol one that has been disconnected so I am looking at connecting it as humidity here is high and diesel not always clean - can i connect the existing one that was for petrol or should change it? If I have to change it, shall I go for the standard one (NRC9708) or are there any upgrades available for poor fuel conditions of developing countries?

Clutch repair kit for defender diesel tdi300 stc8358

Q10:What does this kit do as it seems quite a lot of places to change?

Swivel/Hub bearings/seals overhaul front axle

Q11:These are 2x 606666 Roller Bearing, 1x 571752 Drive Flange Gasket, 1x FTC3401 Swivel Seal, 1x 571755 Swivel Seal Retainer, 1x FRC2883 Shim, 1x FRC2884 Shim, 1x FRC2885 Shim, 1x FRC2886 Shim, 1x FTC3646 Gasket, 1x FRC4206 Gasket, 1x FTC3648 Gasket, 1x FTC3276 Seal, 1x STC3435 Swivel Grease
I would rather buy the kit so it has everything but since the bearings are britpart is best to buy it separate as I hear britpart is not good on moving parts?

Hub Bearings/seals rear axles rtc3429 and ftc4785 plus ftc3179 tab washer

Q12:The hub bearing (rtc3429) comes only with 1 bearing and 1 racing right? So I need to buy 2 per wheel for all the 6 wheels (I guess it makes no difference if it’s front/middle/rear axle)? Are these the only 3 components (rtc3429+ ftc4785 + ftc3179) you recommend to change if I don’t go with the kit?

Q13: Last question is whether when I will change the rims I will need to change the hub/swivel/cv and so best to wait and change all at once? I would like to fit something like this https://images.google.com.gh/imgres?imgurl=http://www.wild-rhino-racing.com/Images/LR-130CC-Rhino_towing_Bowler_Defender_web960.jpg&imgrefurl=https://www.pinterest.com/pin/316237205063673693/&docid=yLdFKYqegM-GzM&tbnid=NR0MEVDcNm5evM:&vet=1&w=960&h=666&source=sh/x/im

Thanks so very much!
Click to expand...
q1 id just but genuine or oe part
q2 lower arm could be trailing arm bushes ntc1772 for axle end
q3 unsure
q4 you can fit disco arm, it has a benefit as drag link uses 2 track rod ends rather than 1, and drop arm having a ball joint which is just harder to change
q5 if you dont know when timing belt was changed id change it
q6 just the one cable
q7 cable only needs to fit the t/box and head unit it wont matter what engine you have
q8 if you want to fit a snorkel and use it for what it is supposed to do you need to ensure air filter housing is air tight thats all
q9 you coud use the one you have if its in good condition ie air tight or fit a lift pump with glass bowl as in eary 4 cyl petrol or similar after market fitting its handy seeing the fuel , though the 300 tdi filter has a drain screw so if drained regularly no sedimenter is needed
q10 kit is clutch pate ,cover and release brg fits all tdis and 2.5s
q11 swivel bearings are 606666 but youd need ftc3179 tab washer for the wheel bearings and ftc3401 swivel seals
q12 rtc3429 is one bearing inner and outer races should be mixed with others , you will need 4 rtc3429 per axle, id use timken pus ftc4785 and ftc3179
q13 if your going to work on a whee station it makes sense to do the lot ,replace what needs replacing ie worn, wheel choice isnt a factor
 
Great – this is really useful, thanks a lot for this - making my new Landy life much easier! :p

Few more q’s before I proceed with making my order that I will pick-up next week once I am back home for Xmas :)

Q1 So for the a-frame bushes the part number is NTC1773 – do you recommend going for the Polyurethane type or normal one? For the A-frame ball joint I found this one from Gwyn that costs about GBP16 more than the standard one (britpart) or GBP6 more (Lemforder) but the GL is adjustable and has the grease nipple (http://www.gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/product/a-frame-ball-joint-greasable-adjustable/) – worth it? I am not really sure what is the purpose of the A-Frame ball joint so kinda lost as whether is worth this extra feature/cost - what are your thoughts? Getting the ball joint out/in of the A-frame is a PITA as per the drop-arm or not? Does it require special equipment so I can check if they have it here in Accra.

Q4 what are the benefits of the disco arm (besides easier fit and maintenance) by having 2 track rods instead of one? Better handling? Would you recommend buying the full GL kit that comes with the sumo HD drag link (http://www.gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/produ...eering-drop-arm-ball-joint-conversion-hd-kit/) or since I would be using Wheely only for overlanding trips (both on/off road) rather than heavy-duty off-road rallies sourcing the pieces of the disco separately (NTC9235, etc..) to save some cash (about GBP50) – what would be the right drag link needed as the length would differ from the one I need? The only customized bit I would need to buy from GL is the damper mount Eye/Pin right ? (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Defender-St...Mount-EYE-PIN-Discovery-Drop-Arm/172002636151).

Q5 Great, I will have the timing belt changed then, while the mechanic is at it with the engine front bit apart, any other parts to be looked into/changed to be on the safe side?

Q8 So If I have a 200TDI and the cleaner element is of a 3.5 V8 it’s fine anyway? The snorkel would be mostly to give cleaner air to Wheely since here is very dusty/sandy – I think the set-up should be like this one https://goo.gl/images/lLPjnV coming straight from the top wing – part PM102 – fitting it onto the 3.5 V8 cleaner element.

Q9 I fit the 200TDI, does it also have a drain screw? For GBP 15 I can buy the sedimentor (NRC9708) or the fuel pump with glass bowl (549761) – what’s best? What is the benefit/use of the lift pump with glass?

Q10 what is the benefit of using this repair kit and what symptoms it would address? At GBP80 I would like to change it only if meaningful benefits would be felt ;) – mechanics here don’t really elaborate much as to why they want to do some work... his main worry was that the liquid in the clutch reservoir was very dirty, saying that the rubbers were to be replaced as they were letting in dirt (??!!?!)

Q11 ok so you are saying that irrespective if I change my rims in the future I can now overhaul the swivel and hub. I would do this since after 5 year idle it may have gotten dry although the car broke down at km49,000 so didn't do so many km - and since the engine got swapped it did another 2k). So for the hub in the 3 axles I have to buy: rtc3429 x12 (Timken) + FTC4785 x 6 (britpart – guess since is not a moving part is fine from britpart??) + ftc3179 x 6 + FRC3988 x6 . For the swivel bit I’d have to buy: 606666 x2 + FRC2906 x2 + FTC3401 x 2+ FTC3646 x2 + FRC4206 x2+ FRC4206 x2 + FTC3648 x 2 + 571718G x2. Correct? What grease do you recommend to use for this work - EP2?
Railko Bush (FRC2916) and Swivel top pin (FRC3511) are likely to be worn or not? Would you also recommend buying the Swivel gaiter to keep dust and water out of the swivels or it doesn’t do much?

P.S. tomorrow I will go to lubricate Wheely's nipples :)p) for the first time - here in ghana they do it with EP2 with a pressure grease gun (brand new equipment) – cost GBP30 - to ensure they do it in the correct places is there a guide on all the spots where the grease has to go? Is EP2 fine or you’d recommend else?

Looking forward to get in action!!!

Thanks again,

Simone
 
vasimone said:
View attachment 112705 View attachment 112706 View attachment 112707 Here you go some further pics of Wheely today when I was moving some furniture home :)

For context I want to restore Wheely to be able to take it overland from Ghana to Cape town and back to Nairobi and then to the RoW, so what I do now needs to be work that will enable me to be ready for this big adventure :)
Click to expand...

That is the dogz bollorks - Can you shoot big game from that roof seat, very colonial.
 
@jamesmartin could you please let me know what you think is best so I can proceed ? I'd really appreciate that ;):):)

A couple of others points whilst I am at it:
  • The correct discovery drop arm part is NTC9235 right? what is the dimension of the steering arm I would need since it needs to be slightly longer?
Thanks a million!!
 
vasimone said:
Great – this is really useful, thanks a lot for this - making my new Landy life much easier! :p

Few more q’s before I proceed with making my order that I will pick-up next week once I am back home for Xmas :)

Q1 So for the a-frame bushes the part number is NTC1773 – do you recommend going for the Polyurethane type or normal one? For the A-frame ball joint I found this one from Gwyn that costs about GBP16 more than the standard one (britpart) or GBP6 more (Lemforder) but the GL is adjustable and has the grease nipple (http://www.gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/product/a-frame-ball-joint-greasable-adjustable/) – worth it? I am not really sure what is the purpose of the A-Frame ball joint so kinda lost as whether is worth this extra feature/cost - what are your thoughts? Getting the ball joint out/in of the A-frame is a PITA as per the drop-arm or not? Does it require special equipment so I can check if they have it here in Accra.

Q4 what are the benefits of the disco arm (besides easier fit and maintenance) by having 2 track rods instead of one? Better handling? Would you recommend buying the full GL kit that comes with the sumo HD drag link (http://www.gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/produ...eering-drop-arm-ball-joint-conversion-hd-kit/) or since I would be using Wheely only for overlanding trips (both on/off road) rather than heavy-duty off-road rallies sourcing the pieces of the disco separately (NTC9235, etc..) to save some cash (about GBP50) – what would be the right drag link needed as the length would differ from the one I need? The only customized bit I would need to buy from GL is the damper mount Eye/Pin right ? (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Defender-St...Mount-EYE-PIN-Discovery-Drop-Arm/172002636151).

Q5 Great, I will have the timing belt changed then, while the mechanic is at it with the engine front bit apart, any other parts to be looked into/changed to be on the safe side?

Q8 So If I have a 200TDI and the cleaner element is of a 3.5 V8 it’s fine anyway? The snorkel would be mostly to give cleaner air to Wheely since here is very dusty/sandy – I think the set-up should be like this one https://goo.gl/images/lLPjnV coming straight from the top wing – part PM102 – fitting it onto the 3.5 V8 cleaner element.

Q9 I fit the 200TDI, does it also have a drain screw? For GBP 15 I can buy the sedimentor (NRC9708) or the fuel pump with glass bowl (549761) – what’s best? What is the benefit/use of the lift pump with glass?

Q10 what is the benefit of using this repair kit and what symptoms it would address? At GBP80 I would like to change it only if meaningful benefits would be felt ;) – mechanics here don’t really elaborate much as to why they want to do some work... his main worry was that the liquid in the clutch reservoir was very dirty, saying that the rubbers were to be replaced as they were letting in dirt (??!!?!)

Q11 ok so you are saying that irrespective if I change my rims in the future I can now overhaul the swivel and hub. I would do this since after 5 year idle it may have gotten dry although the car broke down at km49,000 so didn't do so many km - and since the engine got swapped it did another 2k). So for the hub in the 3 axles I have to buy: rtc3429 x12 (Timken) + FTC4785 x 6 (britpart – guess since is not a moving part is fine from britpart??) + ftc3179 x 6 + FRC3988 x6 . For the swivel bit I’d have to buy: 606666 x2 + FRC2906 x2 + FTC3401 x 2+ FTC3646 x2 + FRC4206 x2+ FRC4206 x2 + FTC3648 x 2 + 571718G x2. Correct? What grease do you recommend to use for this work - EP2?
Railko Bush (FRC2916) and Swivel top pin (FRC3511) are likely to be worn or not? Would you also recommend buying the Swivel gaiter to keep dust and water out of the swivels or it doesn’t do much?

P.S. tomorrow I will go to lubricate Wheely's nipples :)p) for the first time - here in ghana they do it with EP2 with a pressure grease gun (brand new equipment) – cost GBP30 - to ensure they do it in the correct places is there a guide on all the spots where the grease has to go? Is EP2 fine or you’d recommend else?

Looking forward to get in action!!!

Thanks again,

Simone
Click to expand...
q1 fit poly or genuine bushes pattern are often a poor fit, i like poly as simple fit and removal and you can get a whole vehicle kit for 70 quid
q4 the disco arm is only better in that it does away with the difficult to change ball joint

q5 tensioner
q9 glass bowl lets you see any dirt or water in the bowl ,though a screw on filter is all thats really needed just drain regularly
q10 cylinder repair kits are short term fix usually
 
vasimone said:
@jamesmartin could you please let me know what you think is best so I can proceed ? I'd really appreciate that ;):):)

A couple of others points whilst I am at it:
  • The correct discovery drop arm part is NTC9235 right? what is the dimension of the steering arm I would need since it needs to be slightly longer?
Thanks a million!!
Click to expand...
why longer the drop arms are just one length
 
Thanks @jamesmartin a lot – can you confirm just some tiny details – I need to proceed to buy stuff asap as I will only be in Italy for Xmas and then back to Accra - so the order has to be shipped

Q1: Since I am not clear on what rubber kit to go for, how many NTC1773 would I need, is it just one or two per axle?

Q8 So If I have a 200TDI and the cleaner element is of a 3.5 V8 it’s fine anyway?

Q9 I fit the 200TDI, does it also have a drain screw then? For GBP 15 I would buy the sedimentor (NRC9708) only then – what hose should I get to hook it up?

Q10: the clutch seems fine to me for now, do you still recommend changing the whole thing (stc8358) since I would need to anyway dismantle it or would the repair kit (STC1126) be sufficient until a more thorough overhaul is needed?

Q11: Railko Bush (FRC2916) and Swivel top pin (FRC3511) are likely to be worn or not? Would you also recommend buying the Swivel gaiter to keep dust and water out of the swivels or it doesn’t do much?

Q12: Gwyn Lewis tells me that I’d need to change the steering arm as the one I currently have of the defender would be short for the discovery drop-arm – that’s why he includes one in his kit – If I check on http://allbrit.de/UNI.cfm?PAGE=806093&SPRACHE=EN#13 I think the part number for the discovery steering arm is NTC8390 – any clue?

thanks a million!
Simone
 
vasimone said:
Thanks @jamesmartin a lot – can you confirm just some tiny details – I need to proceed to buy stuff asap as I will only be in Italy for Xmas and then back to Accra - so the order has to be shipped

Q1: Since I am not clear on what rubber kit to go for, how many NTC1773 would I need, is it just one or two per axle?

Q8 So If I have a 200TDI and the cleaner element is of a 3.5 V8 it’s fine anyway?

Q9 I fit the 200TDI, does it also have a drain screw then? For GBP 15 I would buy the sedimentor (NRC9708) only then – what hose should I get to hook it up?

Q10: the clutch seems fine to me for now, do you still recommend changing the whole thing (stc8358) since I would need to anyway dismantle it or would the repair kit (STC1126) be sufficient until a more thorough overhaul is needed?

Q11: Railko Bush (FRC2916) and Swivel top pin (FRC3511) are likely to be worn or not? Would you also recommend buying the Swivel gaiter to keep dust and water out of the swivels or it doesn’t do much?

Q12: Gwyn Lewis tells me that I’d need to change the steering arm as the one I currently have of the defender would be short for the discovery drop-arm – that’s why he includes one in his kit – If I check on http://allbrit.de/UNI.cfm?PAGE=806093&SPRACHE=EN#13 I think the part number for the discovery steering arm is NTC8390 – any clue?

thanks a million!
Simone
Click to expand...
q1 2 per axle
q8 its fine
q9 200 tdi filter has a drain
q10 stc8358 is a clutch kit not a cylinder kit , id allways swap the cylinder for new than fit a repair kit
q11 quite possibly but without checking you cat say
q12 you do need to fit the right drag link assembly to the right arm if one you change both
 
Amazing stuff @jamesmartin !!!! If you ever come to Accra I owe you a double draft!!!!

q1 whilst I am changing the NTC1773 and the A ball joint, any other bush to change ?
q10 so if I feel the clutch to be fine, and is just the oil which is a bit murky, is it best to change the whole thing or shall I just leave it until it feels the right time to change it? My point is that the mechanic here only said that oil was dirty, didn't say anything about the clutch not being fine
q11 how many railko bush would i need per axle?
q12 not clear what you mean here - I figured I can buy NTC8390 (£18) + NTC9235 (£32LHD) on paddock and get from GL the L/H and R/H Thread H/Duty Track Rod End. (£8 each) + Damper mount (£21.60) I should be fine right? do you know if the steering arm would fit well?

Cheers,

Simone
 
Simone[/QUOTE]
vasimone said:
Amazing stuff @jamesmartin !!!! If you ever come to Accra I owe you a double draft!!!!

q1 whilst I am changing the NTC1773 and the A ball joint, any other bush to change ?
q10 so if I feel the clutch to be fine, and is just the oil which is a bit murky, is it best to change the whole thing or shall I just leave it until it feels the right time to change it? My point is that the mechanic here only said that oil was dirty, didn't say anything about the clutch not being fine
q11 how many railko bush would i need per axle?
q12 not clear what you mean here - I figured I can buy NTC8390 (£18) + NTC9235 (£32LHD) on paddock and get from GL the L/H and R/H Thread H/Duty Track Rod End. (£8 each) + Damper mount (£21.60) I should be fine right? do you know if the steering arm would fit well?

Cheers,

Simone
Click to expand...
q1 A frame (top link has 2 bushes and one ball joint
q10 if clutch is ok and hydraulic cylinders working fine just change the fluid , keep reservoir full whilst you bleed the old fluid from the bleed nipple on the slave
q11 2 per axle one each side
q12you would need 2 x clamp for track rod ends, if its a 4 bolt box the arm will fit, boxes are all the same just the arm differs
 
Great @jamesmartin, I bought it all!!

Only thing I am not sure of would be swivel overhaul - if i see on allbrit that there are two options: this one Swivel Pin Housing-From (V) LA930456 (http://allbrit.de/UNI.cfm?PAGE=755142&SPRACHE=EN) that requires 2 Bearing-taper roller (606666) or Swivel Pin Housing-To (V) KA930455 (http://allbrit.de/UNI.cfm?PAGE=755127&SPRACHE=EN) requiring one railko and one Bearing-taper roller (606666)

My Landy serial number is TA975201 so I would assume I should go for the From (V) LA930456 - so no RAILKO at all - anything I can do to be sure of what I should get?

Hence the info I had shared previously were wrong as I wouldn't need the following: 606666 x2 + FRC2906 x2 + FTC3401 x 2+ FTC3646 x2 + FRC4206 x2+ FRC4206 x2 + FTC3648 x 2 + 571718G x2

but rather:

4x 606666 Roller Bearing, 2x 571752 Drive Flange Gasket, 2x FTC3401 Swivel Seal, 2x 571755 Swivel Seal Retainer, 2x FRC2883 Shim, 2x FRC2884 Shim, 2x FRC2885 Shim, 2x FRC2886 Shim, 2x FTC3646 Gasket, 2x FRC4206 Gasket, 2x FTC3648 Gasket, 2x FTC3276 Seal

Cheers!!!!
 
Last edited:
vasimone said:
Great @jamesmartin, I bought it all!!

Only thing I am not sure of would be swivel overhaul - if i see on allbrit that there are two options: this one Swivel Pin Housing-From (V) LA930456 (http://allbrit.de/UNI.cfm?PAGE=755142&SPRACHE=EN) that requires 2 Bearing-taper roller (606666) or Swivel Pin Housing-To (V) KA930455 (http://allbrit.de/UNI.cfm?PAGE=755127&SPRACHE=EN) requiring one railko and one Bearing-taper roller (606666)

My Landy serial number is TA975201 so I would assume I should go for the From (V) LA930456 - so no RAILKO at all - anything I can do to be sure of what I should get?

Hence the info I had shared previously were wrong as I wouldn't need the following: 606666 x2 + FRC2906 x2 + FTC3401 x 2+ FTC3646 x2 + FRC4206 x2+ FRC4206 x2 + FTC3648 x 2 + 571718G x2

but rather:

4x 606666 Roller Bearing, 2x 571752 Drive Flange Gasket, 2x FTC3401 Swivel Seal, 2x 571755 Swivel Seal Retainer, 2x FRC2883 Shim, 2x FRC2884 Shim, 2x FRC2885 Shim, 2x FRC2886 Shim, 2x FTC3646 Gasket, 2x FRC4206 Gasket, 2x FTC3648 Gasket, 2x FTC3276 Seal

Cheers!!!!
Click to expand...
300 tdi on do use the chrome balls with a bearing top and bottom(606666)you must not preload them as much as the earlier bush type
 
Hey everyone,

thanks for all your support, Wheely is now up and running and seems almost like new! I have done so far about 1500km and all seems fine - I just noticed that the auxiliary gearbox and the rear axle are leaking oil - I changed it 2 weeks ago and yesterday I had to top it up again as it wasn't level - which are the seals that I should change for that? Anything else you would recommend in the meanwhile to change as I am doing this?
 
Hey everyone,

thanks for all your support, Wheely is now up and running and seems almost like new! I have done so far about 1500km and all seems fine -

The next few things I have to change are the following:
  • The 2 external belts in front of the engine - could you please confirm the part numbers ? I couldn't find them on http://allbrit.de
  • No breather in front-axle - it was cut off - should I buy it and fix it again or is not important?
  • Car doesn't go faster than 80km/h in long stretches of motorway, anything that can be done?
Thanks a lot!

Simone
 
Last edited:
Besides the above, the clutch repair kit I bought is not the correct one (attached - in the Bearmach package) - my mechanic gave me the piece I would need to buy (attached - the one I am holding in my hand) - do you guys know the part number?

thanks!!!
 

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Thanks @neilly ! I have 2 belts and in the link I can only find the fan-belt (ETC7939). Do you know which other belt is there?

The OEM one is 20 quid, the one from dayco only 3.... which one to go for?

Cheers,
Simone
 
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