Ferric oxide based self removing floor panels!

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ShaunC

ShaunC

Member
Posts
74
Location
South East England
After filling the inside of the Disco with muddy water I came to the conclusion that removing the carpet and 'sponge' was a good idea......oh boy!

I found a large hole in the passenger foot well covered over with duct tape and painted to match the floor another just inside the nearside rear door and one in the drivers foot well! Looks like I am going to have to learn to weld, is duct tape usable in a mig? ;)
 
done a few of them footwells- a PITA, but if you take the seat out it gives you more room and makes it so much easier to get at. floor inside the rear doors are easy enough though. check down behind the plastic trim over the sills as well; all the ones I've done the rear passenger footwells in have gone or started to go there anorl so catch it before it rots any further
 
Easy little patches, almost envy you for how little rot you got there.

130A is plenty you'll be on low power most of the time any way, buy some 1.2mm plate and blaze away.

Deffo remove seats for access, just be sure to jet wash the under side too and black waxoyl the floors and sills after painting up with stone chip resistant paint.
 
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ShaunC said:
I am hopefully going to order up a Clarke 160tm next week and then learn to use it! My neighbor is going halves with me as he has a rusty old Triumph Stag to weld up.
Click to expand...

Excellent bit of kit, that's the model I have. Get yourself an auto darkening mask, some fresh steel and get cracking.

And don't forget the progress pics
 
the boot floor pics look just like mine, dont sweat it, YRM do panels for this bit, nice quality and they was only £17 each.
motto for every disco owner is grindy grindy weldy weldy
 
Well it usually follows that there is a lot more rot than you know about, good call for getting new steel to weld in, I have been busy cutting out repair panels from the previous bodges and I was not aware Zanussi made Discovery repair panels?:mad2:

Buy the full kit from Paddocks for the side floor plates when you do the floor, it makes life so much easier, guess how I know that much.....

Nice welder too ;)
 
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Well finally got the Clarke 160tm sorted. No pics of it directly as I put it away beofre think about it!

Below are my very 1st attempts at welding after watching a few YouTbe vids and reading a lot on How to MIG Weld - Tutorial

I can look at the welds all day and say "that looks good, that looks crap" but honestly I dont really know what I am looking for. I wonder if you got lend me your opinions?.

I also have a question. I am told that a "sizzle" is good but pops are not, I kept getting popping but I not sure what needs to change to stop them? also any noobie friendly tips are most welcome!

Thanks in advance!

http://i1254.photobucket.com/albums/hh606/Jebbus12/IMAG0432_zpse334b591.jpg
http://i1254.photobucket.com/albums/hh606/Jebbus12/IMAG0433_zpsfbd0002c.jpg
http://i1254.photobucket.com/albums/hh606/Jebbus12/IMAG0432_zpse334b591.jpg
 
Looking at your practice welds I would say you need to get your steel cleaner first.

That may account for some of the popping.
What gas are you using?
What settings are those welds on?

Post a pic of the underside of those panels so we can see the penetration of the weld
 
This is the underside: http://i1254.photobucket.com/albums/hh606/Jebbus12/IMAG0435_zpsaab9e2ab.jpg

Gas is 95% Argon 5% CO2

The settings were a little confusing to be honest. The power dial goes 1 2 3 and then there is a min/max switch. These were the switch on min and the dial on 2. Wire speed was about 4.5. It was also 0.8mm wire.

The section at the top is were I attempted a join, I did give that bit a good going with the grinder.
 
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