Fecking terminal block bodges!

Thought I'd do all the little jobs that I've been saving today, been to busy to work on the wagon.

So rear indicator has been playing up and the lens is a very light amber. 2 minute job me thinks! to replace

But no the previous owner/ bodger has used terminal blocks to rewire the indicator! twice from the main loom..................Fecking sh!t c&nt.

Why the fecking hell would use terminal connectors under the vehicle. So on closer inspection I found more hidden around the vehicle. In akward places.

Guess I know whit I,m buying the night ..............But terminal connectors really!

I use a gas powered soldering iron. or unsleeved terminal connectors and pvc sleeves and heat shrink. Only used the red/blue/yellow crimps. If I have no choice.

I always solder, makes a much more reliable connection

redhand said:

I use a gas powered soldering iron. or unsleeved terminal connectors and pvc sleeves and heat shrink. Only used the red/blue/yellow crimps. If I have no choice.

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Redhand I'm the same as you, do I right first time! I have plenty of insulated heat shrink connectors just takes a bit more time but least it would be done right!

The previous tit (thinking MRM Rovers here) has bodged it and the indicator unit used is cheap crap. Need to order some proper connectors to repair the fu*k ups!

solder/heat shrink if its possible to do so, bullet connectors eek if not.

mind you I did use a scotch blok when I was 19, so apologies for that

the connections I made for me aux battery and fuse box.



Then decided I needed a bigger fuse box

Oooooo is there still proper coffee in the workshop?

redhand said:

the connections I made for me aux battery and fuse box.

Then decided I needed a bigger fuse box

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Proper job! First time , wish others would follow suit!

I too wish people would do a proper job including following Land Rover/ Lucas colour codes.
Those red wires are a bit heavy for side lights :lalala:

Me I only use Lucar connectors now. Crimped and soldered :smokin:

Leoni who make looms for Land Rover tell us not to solder them, only heat shrink crimps fitted with proper crimping pliers. I still solder my own vehicles though.

gemini said:

I too wish people would do a proper job including following Land Rover/ Lucas colour codes.
Those red wires are a bit heavy for side lights :lalala: They're the feeds from battery to relay then from relay to fusebox. ya ficko

Me I only use Lucar connectors now. Crimped and soldered :smokin:

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Me too..

Have to be careful flux is mild overwise wire erodes away, wurth do some good stuff

A properly made crimped joint is better than a soldered joint.

Soldered joints can become high resistance due to the solder becoming crystaline.
Some fluxes used in soldering operations in particular "Baker's Fluid" can be corrosive (acidic).
Careful control of the heat is required so that the solder is melted properly and the joint fully wetted.
The tinning on "tinned coppper wire" can in some circumstances become detached from the copper, resulting in the joint going high resistance.
Some sort of mechanical joint is recommended before the soldered joint is made.
A soldered joint showing high resistance tendencies can become hot enough to melt the solder and break the joint.

Crimped joints, when properly made form a mechanical connection and the tightness of the closing of the crimped sleeve onto the wire makes the joint faces airtight which precludes oxidization without weakening the wire significantly.
No additional chemicals are needed.
No heating tools are required.
The main downside with crimped joints is that a number of crimping pliers are necessary to meet most applications; red, blue and yellow crimps with sleeves, 10 mm sleeveless crimps, 35 mm sleeveless, and bigger than that you'll probably need a hydraulic crimping press.

I use proper electrical flux cored solder and always crimp then solder. I doubt that any increase in resistance is likely to occur in most landies.

Unless ya using very delicate electronics. their int likely to be a problem.

owl said:

Leoni who make looms for Land Rover tell us not to solder them, only heat shrink crimps fitted with proper crimping pliers. I still solder my own vehicles though.

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Yes I've heard that too. If you take a Lucar connector apart at the wire end. You'll see it's been crimped BUT there's some kind of soldered type joint on one face of the connector. No I haven't been able to decide what it is.

mike

Solder bullets and joiners - bloody expensive but just the job on my series. Just patched in a remote isolator for my son's fiesta using them, too. Work a treat and easily bypassable. Been soldering stuff for forty years so I'm getting quite good at it.

Solder joints also leave an area where flexible meets solid and this area is prone to breakage.

I use crimp joints with pre fitted heat shrink and glue, they are VW approved but are not cheap. If I have to use bullets I fill them with grease.

theres nothing wrong with a good old scotch block. cheap and cheerful.

The mark of a true professional.

BIG_GINGA_BEARD said:

theres nothing wrong with a good old scotch block. cheap and cheerful.

The mark of a true professional.

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Thank you for bringing a smile to my face....:high5: