L322 FBH circuit board test/repair any recommendations?

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If you mean you are going to use a syringe to suck fuel from the FBH end then it won't work as the pump is a pulse type so you can't draw through it.
No, I didn't mean that. I meant I will prime the pump and use a syringe to pull from the tank to where the pump is so that it isn't running dry to start with as that's the hardest bit of work it will need to do.

I still can't see the pump under the car and your diagram makes it look as though it sits above the tank so maybe it needs to be accessed from under the seat . Also, the tank orientation in the picture and the diagram show it on the left side of the tank (and car) which is where the fuel lines run down the length of the body so it seems very contradictory. Not digging at you as I imagine this is pasted from a tech manual but it seems the manual is wrong based on the pics and wording.

When I find it I will bloody well document how to do it though with pictures in the hope that it helps someone else out later.
 
From the other forum

The fuel pump for the FBH is located in one of the most inaccessible
Wink
places on the car, behind the upper wishbone of the RHR suspension. One can just about get a hand or finger to it to test if it is running/ticking. If you are really in the mood you can (CAREFULLY!) drop the subframe @ 2in on that side for better access.

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I am not sure if this is going to confuse matters, all my 2007-2010 confirm whats already been said.

But as @Blob says it doesnt seem the same, my 2011 is slightly diff so I will add incase this the cross over .

HTH

J
 

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I miss our tdv6 with the fbh override remote, getting into a pre warmed car with pre warmed engine.

Our v8 petrols dont have them unless you specked it at the factory. I was going to retro fit 1 to my L322 I even got the circuit board sitting here along with the fbh, all the pipes and mounting brackets but ulez means I can't use it.....the car and kit.

Will have to slum it with the v8 d3 v8 sport, heated seats and heaters that are hot after 6 mins of engine running time.....oh that's 6 minutes seems an age.

Still.......soon be xmas.
 
I got updates! I found the dosing pump, it's not actually as bad to get to as I thought, it's only just on the RH side of the car above the diff and accessible with relative ease... well for a Range Rover anyway. I reversed the car up on to my (reinforced) ramps, fiddled about slightly blindly as once you get your arms in there it's hard to see but as I say, not the worst job I've done on it.

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Crispy looking thing wasn't it?

I fitted the replacement, fired up GapIID and attempted to prime the pump. Failed, E 7. Same as before. Bugger.

Then I found the other fuse for it F13 in the engine bay fuse box so they've definitely moved it from Fuse 59 on the pre 2010.

Just in case anyone is having the same trouble locating this info, I'll spell it out here in the hope it directs someone to the right area. 2010-2012 L322 Fuel Burning Heater fuse is F13 in the Engine Bay Fusebox not fuse 59 in the glovebox one. .

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Nothing wrong there though.

I decided to try to manually prime the pump so I went for my test lead (length of wire with a paperclip soldered to one end) and thought that I'd prove the old pump was dead as it was right there on the bench. I clamped it in the vice, and hit the terminals with 12v. It shot diesel straight into my hair, dammit!

Went to the car, tapped 12v on pin 6 of the FBH connecter about 20 times and it shot diesel straight out of the fuel line.

What have we learned today then kids? Well, the parts cannon is not a good way to diagnose a fault but I maintain that as it was one of few dry(ish) says it was worth having a pump to fit and secondly, my motherboard is goosed in my FBH.

Next steps will be to either replace the FBH and fit all the service parts to a secondhand one but equally, I might well try a few quid on that transistor to see if it is the one that powers the microprocessor and (I'm totally guessing here) is stopping the fuel pump and glow plug from firing up properly.

Anyone got an FBH going cheap...?
 
What a load of softies, nasty polluting things fuel burning heaters, no DPF, no cat, just loads of pollution.
Where practicable, an electric engine block heater is much better IMO plus a pair of gloves. Worked fine for me at minus 40C in Canada.
 
So did you try refitting the FBH after you had primed the new pump?
That's how I know the board is knackered. it doesn't signal the fuel pump nor does it fire the glow plug. You can only prime the pump manually (by putting power to pin 6 repeatedly).

What a load of softies, nasty polluting things fuel burning heaters, no DPF, no cat, just loads of pollution.
Where practicable, an electric engine block heater is much better IMO plus a pair of gloves. Worked fine for me at minus 40C in Canada.
Do they cause more pollution than a v8 diesel not achieving operating temperature quickly? Are the electric block heaters run from clean energy? 🤔 I don't need gloves, I don't get cold and I have a heated steering wheel just in case. However, I like things to work and this doesn't so I'll carry on until it does what it's supposed to do.
 
That's how I know the board is knackered. it doesn't signal the fuel pump nor does it fire the glow plug. You can only prime the pump manually (by putting power to pin 6 repeatedly).


Do they cause more pollution than a v8 diesel not achieving operating temperature quickly? Are the electric block heaters run from clean energy? 🤔 I don't need gloves, I don't get cold and I have a heated steering wheel just in case. However, I like things to work and this doesn't so I'll carry on until it does what it's supposed to do.
The FBH is likely to produce more pollution than even your monster V8 which has extensive measures for pollution control.
According to the experts BEV's are less polluting than ICE powered cars so it follows that an electric block heater is less polluting than a FBH.
 
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