ukadamwest
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 2,990
- Location
- Surrey
Was that called for !freelander....
Was that called for !freelander....
Get yourself a diesel, you know it makes sense. No daft LPG to negotiate.
True.. true...
But it's not a V8
If you're offering Ant ! Lol
The thing is marty it's time the little one is coming up to 6 months old and I've hardly spent a weekend with her. Its been sorts cars out. Selling, buying sorting RR's out house hunting etc etc.. I just feel I'm missing out...I've done a fair few now, and the total usually comes to around £300 - that's everything included - Audi matrix, pipes, clamps, a recon heater box with the flaps freed up and lubed, new foam on the top of the heater box, retaping the ducts, all the labour - and on the last one a replacement blend motor, as one was faulty and it's not worth going back in a second time to re-do it.
You don't have to take any of the wood trim out to get the top of the dash off. (it is actually proper walnut... yes, a thin veneer on a metal backing, but all of the actual LR pieces of wood, were genuine wood - not some fake stuff.) Usually when you try and pry the wood cappings off, either it bends the metal backing/cracks the wood/lacquer or pulls the metal pins out, but you can get the dash off without touching them.
The passenger side one is listed as having to come off to get the passenger air bag out - but with a couple of trim tools, and the bolts from the airbag removed, you can actually get the airbag out with a bit of persuasion, and without damaging anything. On refit, the trim tools just help get the lugs on the front of the airbag unit back past the trim and it will slot back in and bolt up.
The only thing on ones I do that gets cut is the supports to the face air ducts behind the airbag on passenger side, and behind instrument cluster on the drivers side - these are held in with one screw and were obviously installed before the dash was mounted in the factory - cutting these supports gets the duct out and gives access to the bolts that secure the top of the dash to the frame. On reassembly, the sliding joint, and duct tape (also hand to seal up the joins, it's amazing how much more air you get out afterwards!) are sufficient to hold the duct in place.
If you decide to go that route as a DIY, then I can supply audi heater core kits - and also can help with advice/pictures etc of the process when I've done it before.
Dave.. I'm really touche'd thank you.Phew Adam iv read the whole thread now glad you sorted it, it makes perfect sense that the LPG pipes at the back were putting stress on the heater matrix pipes. Was just about to see what Saturday I had free to come down and help restore your faith in the old girl.
in case you fancied a change. Well done for not letting it beat you!Was that called for !
Had to disconnect metal pipes in engine bay on mine when did heater o rings to allow correct line up and mines a doosel.
How does it sound?I used old dinner forks to prise that bit of wood trim off. One at each end, and one in the middle. I got it off no problems with no cracks.
The Audio heater matrix is the best mod I've done to mine! It's a biggish job, but once done provides amazing tranquillity,
Thank you!How does it sound?
Yes its lpg but the t pieces are by the feed and returnDo you have LPG on it? (I can't remember if you mentioned if you did or not)
If so, then you should (maybe with a couple of fittings) be able to plumb it so the LPG vapouriser is inline with the feed/return, instead of 'T' off it.
If you don't have LPG, then I've seen it done with a bendy spring inside the rubber pipe, so it doesn't kink.. Only a couple of weeks until I'm back, and I'll get it sorted for you!
Welcome To LandyZone, the Land Rover Forums!
Here at LandyZone we have plenty of very knowledgable members so if you have any questions about your Land Rover or just want to connect with other Landy owners, you're in the right place.
Registering is free and easy just click here, we hope to see you on the forums soon!