Failed MOT on corroded brake pipes.

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brianconwy

Well-Known Member
Posts
1,112
Location
conwy, north wales
After passing the last 2 MOTs first time, my luck ran out today. It failed on both front brake pipes being corroded. I haven't had a chance to go and inspect as it is my wife's car and I was working. It is chucking it down tonight.
It is a 2003 disco 2 TD5.
Are there ready made kits or is it worth making up the pipes myself?
I believe they are 3/16. What are suitable pipes? Is copper Ok?
Is it worth buying an expensive flaring tool or is a cheap one good enough?
How awkward is the routing?
Any good advice is most welcome.
 
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Get one of these type of flaring tools the cheaper ones are a crap in comparison.
 
I have found some copper brake pipe in the garage. I notice the original has a rubber covering where it runs around the engine bay. Does the new pipe need to have this?
 
I got told off once some time ago for mentioning copper and brake lines in the same sentence. You're looking for "Cunifer" brake pipe; it's a copper/nickel/iron alloy, harder than straight copper but just as long lasting.
When you buy a flaring tool, you'd be well advised to get a tube cutter at the same time. A pipe bender for that size of tube would be an advantage too if you intend to apply some tighter bends.
 
Kunifer is the kiddy you want, not copper, if you want to know why google it and the word fatigue/work hardening, tbf the chances of it causing any issues is slim, but why chance it especially if its the wifes car?
 
Cheap flaring tool kit and a pipe cutter, fit new furrells at the same time, M10X1mm threads, 3/16ths cunifer/cupronikel pipe.

IMG_20171024_172238.jpg


Got that lot on amazon for under £25, another £7 for a bag of mixed male/female furrells, I think it was £25 for 5mtrs of 3/16ths pipe.
 
A couple of tips if you go with the cheap tool set.
1) use the die head to measure stick out beyond the clamp.

2) lubricate with a smear of brake fluid, it helps reduce friction from pressure that would/could otherwise distort your flares.

3) use an old wood countersink bit to bevel the inside of the pipe, since doing this all of my double flares have all come out top notch :)

4) get the pipe bender, such a great little tool and the one I got was super and bends round 180 degrees.
 
I wish. They may be available but my searches haven't found any.

The nearside brake line seems short and simple, but the offside seems harder to get to and much longer. It might be simpler just to replace the corroded section with a piece of new pipe connected with a union. I don't know if they would accept this though.
 
I have just ordered the franklin tools type flaring tool, pipe bender and cutter. I will start with the nearside one as that is short and looks less awkward. Why is it easier to replace the whole pipe? The offside one snakes about all around the back of the engine bay and is in good condition apart from the bit down by the wheel arch. If the nearside one proves easy then I might change the whole of the offside one.
 
brianconwy said:
I have just ordered the franklin tools type flaring tool, pipe bender and cutter. I will start with the nearside one as that is short and looks less awkward. Why is it easier to replace the whole pipe? The offside one snakes about all around the back of the engine bay and is in good condition apart from the bit down by the wheel arch. If the nearside one proves easy then I might change the whole of the offside one.
Click to expand...

Pay attention to the clamp pressure on the tool.The instructions confused me initially but that's easily done with me...
You basically clamp the pipe so it will slide snugly through the clamp and sticking out a little too far. You then screw in the die which will push the pipe down to the correct depth, then, making sure the pipe doesn't move, tighten the clamp fully. Something like that, not used it for a while but do remember that getting the pipe clamp pressure/protrusion correct saves a bit of faff.
Use the grease supplied as well when forming.
I found a pipe bender next to useless as the radius was too large for almost every bend on my 110.
I found gently bending around a suitable round thing worked fine ie- a socket from your socket set, I think I even bent a pipe round an 1/2" extension bar once with no kinking.
Practice flares and bending before attacking the vehicle , it's easy once you suss it.
Probably my favourite tool now, got me out of trouble twice on a weekend which otherwise would have left me stranded at home with a long walk on Monday morning to the motor factors.
Once you've made a couple of pipes it's paid for itself.
 
I love making up new brake pipes.
There is something very rewarding about putting all the correct bends in and shaping everything neatly through the car or bike and then terminating with a nice neat flare.
Sad eh!
 
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