Failed her MOT today

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P38Penguin

P38Penguin

Active Member
Posts
305
Location
West Midlands
Hi guys,

Well, she failed today, looks like the sneaky bugger I bought it off has taken out the ABS and SRS light in the dash :violent:

mot002.jpg


So, anyone in the midlands with the diagnostic equipment will to give me a hand in trying to sort this? Unlimited tea/coffee and bacon butties on offer :D

Thanks

Mick
 
CV joint gater is the only difficult one., SRS and ABS could just be bulbs, headlamp is a simple adjust. Headlamp too low is not a fail over here and if they are too high the tester adjusts them free.
 
Its only a half hour job to check the bulbs

I got the advisory for light misting of oil a shockers too!
I had a look and couldn't see what he was on about?+ he totally missed that there's about as much oil on the engine/gearbox as What's in it
 
Mainbeam to low is not a fail, advisory maybe but NOT a fail. If the lamps don't dazzle they pass, simple as that.
 
get some rubber glue for gaiter if it's a tear (not perished), when glued, clean with acetone or nail varnish remover and never use an mot place there does repairs.
my trusted place adjust lights and retest for free if needed
 
Last edited:
I wouldn't touch a Kwik-Fit with someone else's barge pole.
Independent garages/MOT centres are the places to go.
Or, if you want a certain guarantee of a no bull#hit test, take it to a local council centre.

They can't refuse members of the public from having their vehicles tested there.
They just don't advertise the fact that they can do them.
And because they don't usually have a public repair centre, they have no vested interest in failing a vehicle unless its bad.
 
My uncle works in the stores of my local council test/repair place
Hes had my car tested there for years and if it fails he gets one of the guys to fix it for abit of a back hander
 
Thanks for all the advice guys.

The ABS, according to the tester, isn't working at all, but when he was testing in the car park she seemed to stop pdq when he slammed the anchors on and there isn't a message on the display. I'll have a ferret and see what bulbs are required and replace them and see what pops up. I've checked the fuses in the engine bay they they are ok, checked the realys and the yellow realy in RL-2 measures ~60ohms and the black relay (PRC9566) in position RL-17 jumps from anything from 0-100 ohms and doesn't settle on a number. How does the first one look? and I'm guessing the 2nd one needs replacing.

The headlamp aim threw me because checked it against a wall last night and both were exactly the same (well, visually anyway) so no idea whats going on there.

I'll start with the cheaper option and see if the bulbs are missing and replace as necessary and take it from there.

Would anyone be willing to give me a hand with the CV joint? never done one before :(

mick
 
Last edited:
P38Penguin said:
Thanks for all the advice guys.

The ABS, according to the tester, isn't working at all

Would anyone be willing to give me a hand with the CV joint? never done one before :(

mick
Click to expand...

Given how sensitive the p38 ABS is I'd expect you to know if it's working or not, mine chimes in with only mildly aggressive braking - I've reset all the sensors.

The CV joint is fine looking at the description - it just needs the gaiter repairing.
 
Last edited:
P38Penguin said:
Thanks for all the advice guys.

The ABS, according to the tester, isn't working at all, but when he was testing in the car park she seemed to stop pdq when he slammed the anchors on and there isn't a message on the display. I'll have a ferret and see what bulbs are required and replace them and see what pops up. I've checked the fuses in the engine bay they they are ok, checked the realys and the yellow realy in RL-2 measures ~60ohms and the black relay (PRC9566) in position RL-17 jumps from anything from 0-100 ohms and doesn't settle on a number. How does the first one look? and I'm guessing the 2nd one needs replacing.

The headlamp aim threw me because checked it against a wall last night and both were exactly the same (well, visually anyway) so no idea whats going on there.

I'll start with the cheaper option and see if the bulbs are missing and replace as necessary and take it from there.

Would anyone be willing to give me a hand with the CV joint? never done one before :(

mick
Click to expand...

Should be able to fit without removing drive shaft.
New Universal Split CV Joint Boot Gaiter Kit for Driveshafts EASY FIT SYSTEM | eBay
 
I just had both mine done - twice.

The first time the oil seals got damaged somehow and had to be replaced, so care is needed when pulling the half shaft out or the seal will be damaged by the splines.

Best to fit a new seal, I think.

Then, be careful when removing and refitting the abs sensor. Initially, i was getting traction failure but only when reversing! Had to re seat the sensors and now ok.

I got the gaiter kit and oil seal from Island 4x4. (no affiliation).

Good luck.
 
bit of an update for you.

Taken the instrument panel out and as suspected, the previous ****ers have taken out both srs bulbs and the abs bulb. If it was just that then I could easily replace the bulbs. But no.

They've even got rid of the caps the bulbs sit in. So now I'm snookered. Looks like they've done the same to the brake wear bulb too.

Any ideas guys?
20140420_132039.jpg

thanks

mick
 
Sounds like they are trying to mask a problem....replacing bulbs is only part of the problem....most prob get bulbs and holders from ebizzle or from our forum sponsor Emmots.

Time to dig deeper.... i.e. why did they remove the bulbs, time to get some diagnostics on to it :(
 
Just tried to bodge it by getting the bulbs and holders from halfrauds, slightly different holder but doesn't work. Nothing ventured and all that! Will scour the bay of e and emmots, if no joy there then I'll try what shaun suggested, 'borrow' from non critical lights.

Thanks for all the help, keep it coming :D

mick
 
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