Extra fuel tank won't fill

http://www.safari-equip.co.uk/index.php?page=81

dont know how much it cost, but looks like its gravity fed... hmmmm.

Griffdowg said:

just cut a hole surely!

good point though. food for thought. did a quick google and another good point is moving the exhaust system around a bit. so it looks like a side exit exhaust 1st. followed by the fitting of a TD5 90 tank to the rear.

when you say use LED's. if the fuel guage works on both (once linked) could i not just have a flick switch to activate the aux tank?

sorry sean, i dont really understand the ins and outs of the fuel system, ive never had to fiddle with it.

G

Click to expand...

i usually put at least one LED in so you get a visual indication of which tank is in use as some switches dont make it clear which is which - so if there's a LED labeled "reserve" or "tank B" it's a lot clearer - well to me it is

Griffdowg said:

http://www.safari-equip.co.uk/index.php?page=81

dont know how much it cost, but looks like its gravity fed... hmmmm.

Click to expand...

this one is deffo gavity fed and is deffo the simpiest way to increase your tanks capacity - it just effectivly sits on top of your existing tank

http://www.safari-equip.co.uk/index.php?page=75

i cant see how those other ones could work without a switch over system - they'll be the best part of £300

that ebay tank didnt go for much defender long range fuel tank/ expedition/ overland on eBay, also, Land Rover, Car Parts, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 15-May-08 21:42:59 BST)

looks like that just sat on top of the inner tub and gavity fed to the exising tank

here's where mine's at now----->



the filler for the td5 tank is obvious and I used a series surround and then fitted a "doughnut" of aluminium to take the rubber grommet for a Td5 fuel pipe. I used the fuel pipe from a disco as this is nice and long with a 70 degree turn at base and it lines up PERFECTLY with the td5 tank.

I used a 300tdi sender unit (as the td5 tank is also a late 90 300tdi tank) which runs to its own dial on the dash.

Dash switch switches betwixt the twa and a wee led lights up to show which tank is in use.

And the engine lift pump does all the pumping for whatever tank is being used



by the way that fuel tank sticker is a genuine land rover item and I've got 2 spare ones.

Sean said:

this one is deffo gavity fed and is deffo the simpiest way to increase your tanks capacity - it just effectivly sits on top of your existing tank

http://www.safari-equip.co.uk/index.php?page=75

i cant see how those other ones could work without a switch over system - they'll be the best part of £300

that ebay tank didnt go for much defender long range fuel tank/ expedition/ overland on eBay, also, Land Rover, Car Parts, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 15-May-08 21:42:59 BST)

looks like that just sat on top of the inner tub and gavity fed to the exising tank

Click to expand...

is/ Was that tank legal to put in a passenger compartment?

I thought, could be wrong, that technically all fuel parts had to be behind a fireproof container. This could just be for type approval though, I am not sure.

cheers for the pics muddy. can i ask how you have routed your exhaust 1st before i get into the fuel tank debate. also are you using a Pollak valve/switch? and do you think it would be possible to use the 1 fuel gauge for both tanks. What i would ideally like is to flick a switch and for the tanks to swop inc the gauge reading. when i didnt want to use the aux tank, i would flick the switch off and be back to normal. what you think? or do i need the 2 sender units to 2 gauges?

G

I' using the standard 2.5td exhaust but getting a new back bit made or will cobble a td5 rear onto my 2.5td front. Not sure yet...

I'm not using a pollack as my german veg-oil kit came with a good switch valve and I don't need a return to the aux tank so don't need the pollacks "complexity"

There's a genuine land rover fuel switch that does exactly what you're wanting - as well as changing over the fuel supply, it swaps over the signal feed to the fuel gauge so that a single gauge reads both tanks. There's two genuine systems, one (basic one) is just levers and rods, the other is a dash mounted toggle switch (that goes in the space under your binnacle) that uses relays and electric valves. That's the one you want. i'll get you the part number when my mate gives me back my parts book.

cheers muddy just been looking more closely at the Pollak instructions sean posted, after reading it, it doenst seem too bad. I ideally want to use a carling switch supplied by mudstuff and use it in their dash with other switches. it would be neater this way. Ive emailed richards chassis and asked about brackets, no reply yet. will let you know how i get on.

Cheers,

G

email contact is not their strongest suite...

Hi,

Took delivery of a Safari Equip SS wheel arch tank for my TD5 110 yesterday. I'll be fitting it this weekend. The instructions are a bit limited so I'll spend plenty of time sizing the task up especially as I need to drill the existing tank.

I'll run the fuel level down as far as possible then make sure I have plenty of containers to capture what spills out when the drill gets through!

Looking at the size of the tank and the gap under the arch I can't believe its going to fit so plenty of scope for fun and games...

I'll post some photos of the process.

Steve

good luck steve. i take it you have a 110? do you mind if i ask how much you paid?

Cheers

G

I think it was £370 for the SS model including VAT and delivery.

These are their quoted prices from a couple of weeks ago:

SEL 95 - RHS Arch Tank S/S £285.00 + Vat
SEL 95G - RHS Arch Tank S/S with Guard £305.00 + Vat
SEL 96 - RHS Arch Tank Aluminium £300.00 + Vat
SEL 96G - RHS Arch Tank Aluminium with Guard £320.00 + Vat

For that I have a tank and a fitting kit which includes a bunch of nuts and bolts, some plumbing type tank connectors, several rubber hoses and a rubber guard to go in front of the gap between the front of the tank and the underside of the wheel arch.

The tank sits between the filler and the filler hole in the main tank. There is a breather which connects between the filler and the breather in the main tank and another hose that runs between the bottom of each tank so fuel levels between the twoand both get emptied. This is the one I need to drill a hole in the main tank for.

No idea if SS is better than Ali but I thought SS would resist penetration from small stones better and hopefully I shouldn't see any corrosion.

Cheers,

be quick

landrover defender 110 td5 fuel tank. on eBay, also, Land Rover, Car Parts, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 20-May-08 20:58:39 BST)

muddy, are you using a TD5 90 tank or a TD5 110 tank or is there no difference in the 2? i did a bit of research the other night and im sure it said you couldnt use a 110 tank on a 90, but i think it said something about NAS spec or i might have confused it with something else i read! something to do with the x member interfering with the tank? there are plenty of 110 tanks on ebay but no 90 tanks yet. let me know when you find the part numbers, i cant find them anywhere.

G

what you think? bottom valve?

biotuning

That valve looks fine but you're probably better with the 6-port jobby higher up as it not only selects the tank for drawing fuel from but also sends unused fuel back to the selected tank - otherwise (improbably but possibly) if you had two tanks, both brimmed with fuel (like for an expedition) and ran the tank that DOESN'T have a return line, the unused fuel would get sent back to the other tank, which is already brimmed, leading to dropping diesel on the road which is undesirable... that's why the pollack is so popular.

Unless - you plumb in some sort of short-cycle fuel system where unused fuel is tee'd back into the fuel supply line (my veg kit does something along these lines so that there's no return line at all to my Td5 tank.

As for the tank - only the 90 tank will fit the 90 - the 110 is a completely different design. the code for the tank is whk100040 which is the Td5 plastic 90 tank - but I beleive whk100060 is the same but intended for the american 90. Theres other plastic 90 tanks too for rear mounting as used in military wolf 90's but I don't know their codes.

You'll get one if you wait - I waited a month or so for one on ebay - but you could try the landy breakers in LRO.

or if all else fails theres always... WHK100040 Fuel tank - 90 from XA159807 - Diesel

I couldn't find a picture of one, so cast yer eyes over mine part-installed - theres some black foam I fixed on which is bit confusing as to its shape, but it's broadly as deep up and down as it is wide front to back, if not deeper and with a big wedge missing from the nearside front for the exhaust to pass. The 110 one is much less deep and wider / flatter.


finally, as for the genuine parts Land Rover electrical switchover gear - it's not a simple kit as I'd thought - but 15 different items on parts catalogue page M77. No doubt costs a fortune! The "simple" mechanical system with levers etc is 34 SEPERATE ITEMS, and is on page J51.

Now I remember why I went for an electrical valve and 2 gauges / sender units!!!