Experimenting with a bikini top - costs and benefits

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Speedy6111

Active Member
Posts
79
Location
Uk
In a previous thread some discussion started about bikini tops. I thought I’d note my experiences here, as there doesn’t seem to be much detail about this approach anywhere.

Background: I’m a new-ish Landy owner, acquiring a 1980 S3 SWB hardtop in autumn last year. I use it for general running around, school runs, tip hauler. I have access to another car (and a motorcycle), so I have some freedom to have the Landy not be a ‘do everything’ vehicle 24x7.

Here in a wintery shot:
623F3B79-07FB-4E59-8473-4E0AFEF89A37.jpeg


I’d always liked the idea of a full tilt - rolling up the sides in summer, etc. But I realised there were some disadvanatages:
- not as secure as hardtop
- probably draftier in winter
- still some work to remove completely, and even when removed, still got the stick set
- bloody expensive to buy new (around £700+ for new sticks and hood). Used stuff still quite expensive and often corroded or shrunk

So, with all the hot weather, I decided to remove the hardtop and run topless and just see how that was. Cheap to do, reversible if no good. Fortunately my vehicle had been rebuilt so no seized nuts and the lid came off pretty easily. And it’s great fun - I love the sense of freedom, and how ‘right’ the truck looks.

Parched Fields:
7F2AE14C-9888-475A-8478-21159F6E5FFF.jpeg


A bit more thinking. A bikini top might be an acceptable compromise:
- offers sun and rain protection to front 3 seats
- very quick to remove / store when the ‘full’ open experience is desired
- flexible - no top, no top plus door tops, top, top with door tops, top, doors, fume curtain for a fabric cab
- relatively inexpensive (see below)
- looks good and a bit different.

So, I’ve ordered all the bits: (all inc vat)
Front Hoop - John Craddock - 64
Canvas - Exmoor Trim via Rimmer Bros - 95
Stick clamps x2. - Ebay - 11
Hood staples - Craddock - 5
All up, about £175.

But, I hear you cry, you need a shark tooth rail and door channels and...
I’m picking up a used shark tooth for about £40.
Door channels aren’t absolutely necessary, but there may be flapping.

I’ve also found a tailgate for £50. It needs stripping and painting, but will complete the tub, and prevent stuff (including kids) falling out.

Parts are due late this week/early next, so I’ll update with progress/pics. Hope this is interesting / of use to someone!

Cheers.
 
- not as secure as hardtop
- probably draftier in winter

Just a quick rsponse to some of your disadvantages. My soft top is warmer, and more waterproof in the winter than the hardtop used to.
I also do not consider a hardtop to be secure, you only need to have a quick look on youtube to see it only takes seconds to get into them. in which case i would say the security is the same as canvas.

However, I also like the idea of a bikini top. Would be very interested on how you find the quality of the material and fitting when you receive the hood.
 
175 is slot more paletable (sp?) than 700 odd for the full tilt I must admit. Also looking forward to seeing the bikini kit. It would be great to know you can go fully topless for the summer but generally we don't have the climate for it.

50 quid for a tail gate isn't bad, let me know if you find another! :D
 
I have experimented with full canvas, bikini and truck cab canvas - by far my favourite is the truck cab canvas. Warm in winter, much quieter and looks good. Roll up the sides and remove the door tops and it’s only slightly bigger than a bikini top.

Win win.
1DA9EE65-2059-425D-AADE-D2EDA127A7AA.jpeg
 
Interesting post. I've just converted to canvas. Had it for a week now and it's brilliant. I was lucky cos I got an original tilt with canvas top. All I had to buy was the fixings kit from Exmoor Trim. There's so many permutations with the full tilt. Last Thursday I took the whole lot off cos it was so hot. But a great set up is the roof on but the sides up. It's so quick to change. Another reason I like it is the canvas is well used and suits the vehicle perfectly. The bikini top is an interesting one but relies on hotter weather.As for security I live in the country and nearest small town is okay for parking at the shops n stuff. Saying that there is a security issue. On balance for me I'm very pleased with the full tilt.
I also have the channel gutters for a truck cab if anyone's interested. Original spec. Another point, my original tilt front bar has small plastic hooks which at first I couldn't figure out. They are to hold the seat belts above shoulder height. A special bar from Exmoor costs £160! Something to be aware to make sure you are safe and legal.
 
Just a quick rsponse to some of your disadvantages. My soft top is warmer, and more waterproof in the winter than the hardtop used to.
I also do not consider a hardtop to be secure, you only need to have a quick look on youtube to see it only takes seconds to get into them. in which case i would say the security is the same as canvas.

However, I also like the idea of a bikini top. Would be very interested on how you find the quality of the material and fitting when you receive the hood.

Thanks for this. Point taken on security. In absolute terms I’m sure you’re right. Mentally I feel better having the solidity of a tin box!

I’ll keep updating this thread on quality etc.
 
I have experimented with full canvas, bikini and truck cab canvas - by far my favourite is the truck cab canvas. Warm in winter, much quieter and looks good. Roll up the sides and remove the door tops and it’s only slightly bigger than a bikini top.

Win win.View attachment 154647
That is good! I don’t think I even knew such a thing existed. Having poked around the various suppliers recently I don’t recall seeing anything like this. Where did you get yours?
 
Interesting post. I've just converted to canvas. Had it for a week now and it's brilliant. I was lucky cos I got an original tilt with canvas top. All I had to buy was the fixings kit from Exmoor Trim. There's so many permutations with the full tilt. Last Thursday I took the whole lot off cos it was so hot. But a great set up is the roof on but the sides up. It's so quick to change. Another reason I like it is the canvas is well used and suits the vehicle perfectly. The bikini top is an interesting one but relies on hotter weather.As for security I live in the country and nearest small town is okay for parking at the shops n stuff. Saying that there is a security issue. On balance for me I'm very pleased with the full tilt.
I also have the channel gutters for a truck cab if anyone's interested. Original spec. Another point, my original tilt front bar has small plastic hooks which at first I couldn't figure out. They are to hold the seat belts above shoulder height. A special bar from Exmoor costs £160! Something to be aware to make sure you are safe and legal.
Glad you are enjoying it. I’m sure if the weather was consistently better here we’d all be running soft tops all the time! Useful info about the belt hooks. Mine are inertial reel and just over the shoulder the bulkhead.
 
Glad you are enjoying it. I’m sure if the weather was consistently better here we’d all be running soft tops all the time! Useful info about the belt hooks. Mine are inertial reel and just over the shoulder the bulkhead.
Mine are inertia reel fitted in vertical position so the wee hooks work perfectly. If you're seat belts are hanging below shoulder height you're potentially A risky situation if in an accident; the belt would could cause injury.
 
I think most seatbelts cause some form of injury in a crash, as long as it's less than the dash would have given you, you're winning :)
 
Good day today, lots of progress.
Firstly a huge shout to @btiratsoo who provided me a tailgate, sharktooth rail and various small parts at knockdown prices- and then threw in a bunch more stuff for free. We had a great chat and he showed me his excellent S3. Thanks Ben!

Hood arrived from Rimmer Bros - very fast postage so happy with that. Hood is good thick canvas and looks well made. It’s exmoor trim khaki (but is actually olive green...?!)

More on that when I can actually mount it when the hoop arrives.

I’ve wirewheeled the tailgate and all the fixings, and done some initial paint to match my Nato green S3.

Antiluce cotter pins arrived. Tip - PIK trailers has stainless M12 pins for £5 each compared to the £20 the pair being sought by britpart et al.

Tailgate before wheeling:
078D4F21-1F04-4471-8B0F-9F9EECCFE186.jpeg


Canvas matches truck well. stainless antiluce pins in place.
C440D9BC-8DB7-428F-B185-EE8ECB4A6743.jpeg
 
The top part of 3-point seat belts should always be above shoulder height. If you simply loop them over the seats then the forces in a crash can be in all the wrong direction and cause serious injury. This is why a lot of newer cars have adjustable upper mounts to accomodate different heights of the occupant.

So really you need a support bar of some description to replace the missing door pillars.
 
The top part of 3-point seat belts should always be above shoulder height. If you simply loop them over the seats then the forces in a crash can be in all the wrong direction and cause serious injury. This is why a lot of newer cars have adjustable upper mounts to accomodate different heights of the occupant.

So really you need a support bar of some description to replace the missing door pillars.
My original front tilt frame has a small hook specifically designed to hook the seat belts and hold above shoulder height. A support bar from Exmoor costs £160!!!
 
I’m also going through the process of buying all the parts for the full tilt.
Maybe you could help me with a daft question?
Did you just buy the antiluce catches and drill them through? Or was it the full capping you bought?
 
I’m also going through the process of buying all the parts for the full tilt.
Maybe you could help me with a daft question?
Did you just buy the antiluce catches and drill them through? Or was it the full capping you bought?

I just bought the catches. Capping and holes were already in place.
Does that help?
 
I’m also going through the process of buying all the parts for the full tilt.
Maybe you could help me with a daft question?
Did you just buy the antiluce catches and drill them through? Or was it the full capping you bought?
You can do either. If the capping is blank it can just be drilled and the catch fittted (there is alread a hole drilled in the tub behind the capping), or if you find a complete panel (very cheap at the auto-jumbles at shows) you can drill out the rivets for the old corner piece and carefully slide it out and replace with the new one.
 
I just bought the catches. Capping and holes were already in place.
Does that help?
Yes, that’s great. The Landy isn’t here, it’s in my mates workshop waiting to get some core plugs fitted.
I’ve been spending last few days gathering all the bits I need. Wasn’t keen on drilling the capping if it meant drilling through the tub, but great to know that the tub has holes. Just need the hood to arrive and I’m all set!
 
Hi again.

Hoop arrived today, so I’ve been able to get everything mounted. It was a straight forward exercise. I did need to drill the shark tooth to accept the staples onto which the hood tension straps attach. The two back straps need some fixing points which I’m working out. For now they are held through the rear hoop holes.

A quick drive shows no flapping. The horizontal edges of the canvas that run parallel with the doors have a tape that can be tied to the hoop to help with shape. Wind is about 30% less than with no top at all. I’ll experiment soon with door tops on and see how that goes.

Anyway, here is a pic. I’m pleased with how it looks, and I think it’ll get better as the canvas softens and shrinks. Also as the tailgate paint fades to match the rest!

B79BBC1C-D016-4197-A591-8F0C21B37A27.jpeg
 
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