expansion tank filling?

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
pipes should be at 15psi, so you can still squeeze em.. they shouldn't be rock solid.

did you check the rad all over for hot/cold spots and are the fins ok?
 
not loosing coolant, i cool it with the heater blower before it gets too hot..

rad n fins seem ok.... think i'm gonna swop rad for my mates as he's offered, his is a good one...
 
nick2303 said:
not loosing coolant, i cool it with the heater blower before it gets too hot..

rad n fins seem ok.... think i'm gonna swop rad for my mates as he's offered, his is a good one...
Click to expand...

i would try a couple of other things first.. like jm said.. are you sure it is actually getting hot and it isn't a faulty sender or earth.. then when you put the blower on the extra juice makes the gauge read normal again.

laser guns are a tennerish if you fancied checking
 
smells hot...

probably sounds stupid but it does..

needle drops slowly back to normal, not instant.. blower is blowing i'm just turning the heat control to hot so no change in voltage use...
 
what do you mean by hoses solid?if there solid when cold you have a cracked head or block or a head gasket issue,if there solid when hot thats normal but should be able to squeeze them once cool ,if the laters the case it really sounds like your rads suspect i bought one off fleabay there was no baffle in it,this is essential for a 300 tdi,with out it it will overheat on a run
 
Last edited:
Long shot, viscous coupling shot ?

With the engine hot and stopped, if you can spin the fan freely with no resistance the viscous coupling is shot.
 
If running the coolant through the small heater rad makes a big difference as you have said, it points to the replacement rad being a bit duff.
 
new viscous..

bottom hose cooler than top hose ya can tell just by feel.. also poured water on top hose when hot and it evaporated in seconds.. poured water on bottom hose and it took longer to evaporate..

checked timing and was out a little.. probably from doin timing belt last weekend..

so reset timing, and now it dont overheat as readily.. gotta be doin 70 on mway before it starts to creep up, still drops when i switch heater to hot..

if the timing is a little off, is this gonna cause such an overheating problem?

got another rad to try...

been dj'ing all weekend.. so knackered today.. will swop it tmoz and see how it goes...
 
Last edited:
redid the timing again just to be sure... still hot...


put another rad on..... and success!!!!! rad must of been a duff one...


but now alternator has packed in!!!! borrox!!!!!!

wiggled wires and got it back to life for bout half an hour, then its stopped again.. had wires off and cleaned and re-attached,,, no success....

tel ya what, if it aint one thing, its ya disco!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

farriermatt
Water problems 300tdi in a 1985 110
Replies
10
Views
997
farriermatt
farriermatt
M
P38A Leak
Replies
2
Views
854
nigelbb
N
F
Auxiliary belt
Replies
7
Views
955
freelandertd4bmw
F
Bustrucket
Disco 2 Td5 Overheating
Replies
3
Views
921
johnlad
johnlad
_Snowy_
Fan Belt tensioner wobbling about
Replies
8
Views
3K
tom1979
tom1979
Back
Top