Exhaust manifold studs

Bobsticle · Feb 5, 2018

well it’s that time (new exhaust) and yes, they all snapped trying to free them.
Now, do I wait till Thursday before fleabay can send me a tap or do I drill em out and fit some stainless nuts and bolts.

doodle bug · Feb 5, 2018

Bobsticle said:
well it’s that time (new exhaust) and yes, they all snapped trying to free them.
Now, do I wait till Thursday before fleabay can send me a tap or do I drill em out and fit some stainless nuts and bolts.

Burn it

Jam1 · Feb 5, 2018

Brass nuts standard steel studs, stainless if you must but it ain't the answer many people think it is.

Bobsticle · Feb 5, 2018

There used to be several engineering shops round ere. Can’t find a one now and those eejits at tool station only do metric.

I may just wack some bolts through it and have done. Who needs 5/16 studs any road.

Hellastony · Feb 5, 2018

I think many have found that these are the best to use,

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROV...370218&hash=item4675f6ee43:g:K1cAAMXQgJRQ-G~U

stainless is too soft. It also helps to open out the last two port stud holes to allow for a bit of movement, 10mm seems to be the norm.

Tony

Hellastony · Feb 5, 2018

Repeated in error, cant seem to be able to delete it.....

Bobsticle · Feb 5, 2018

Hellastony said:
I think many have found that these are the best to use,

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROV...370218&hash=item4675f6ee43:g:K1cAAMXQgJRQ-G~U

stainless is too soft. It also helps to open out the last two port stud holes to allow for a bit of movement, 10mm seems to be the norm.

Tony

I have the replacement studs and brass nuts to secure the down pipe. All the others are OK.
I just need to get the dam fing back on the road. I have drilled out the offending downpipe studs to within a nads of the thread and now need a tap to re cut them. Just wondering if I could chuck a nut and bolt through them to hold the exhaust flange on. Save me waiting for the tap to arrive.

Hellastony · Feb 5, 2018

Apologies, I thought you were talking about the manifold bolts, not the others. Just drill them out and use anything to hand....

Hicap phill · Feb 5, 2018

Nut & bolt on flange.

Hellastony · Feb 5, 2018

Bobsticle · Feb 5, 2018

Hmmmm

Wonder if I could stitch one on the flange itself with mi welder so the thread ............

No scratch that. I’d struggle getting at the nut under the inlet manifold.

Could have a go the other way. Just insert the stud in the enlarged hole and add a blob of weld on top of the manifold to hold it in.
It won’t be any more difficult to remove eventually as these wuz.

Hicap phill · Feb 5, 2018

Bolt to go downwards. just cut the head slightly so it wedges on the down pipe.
No I'm not going outside to photo as it's cold

rob1miles · Feb 5, 2018

I much prefer nuts and bolts on exhausts, sooner or later you'll have to saw the nuts off and its a lot easier if its a nut and bolt. Studs are probably faster on an assembly line but if it corrodes give me a nut and bolt.

John S · Feb 5, 2018

Bobsticle said:
I have the replacement studs and brass nuts to secure the down pipe. All the others are OK.
I just need to get the dam fing back on the road. I have drilled out the offending downpipe studs to within a nads of the thread and now need a tap to re cut them. Just wondering if I could chuck a nut and bolt through them to hold the exhaust flange on. Save me waiting for the tap to arrive.

Could be worth a try. I’d do it from the top down to try to screw out the remaining thread out the bottom of the manifold. That’s a right tight space to access from underneath. I did my exhaust in the autumn. Getting the first down pipe section into position was also right tight squeeze. Had to jack up the front of the landy on the axle to get enough clearance. Good luck with it.

Bobsticle · Feb 5, 2018

John S said:
Could be worth a try. I’d do it from the top down to try to screw out the remaining thread out the bottom of the manifold. That’s a right tight space to access from underneath. I did my exhaust in the autumn. Getting the first down pipe section into position was also right tight squeeze. Had to jack up the front of the landy on the axle to get enough clearance. Good luck with it.

Yea I know what you mean. The last time I replaced it I had loads of bother and never ended up replacing the studs. It has been blowing a little at the manifold for three years

This time I will cut the old front pipe out and remove the n/s gearbox mount. It will slide through the gap once the box is jacked up a tad. This does actually work

Bobsticle · Feb 5, 2018

Hicap phill said:
Bolt to go downwards. just cut the head slightly so it wedges on the down pipe.
No I'm not going outside to photo as it's cold

I’ve only just come in. I know it’s ruddy cold

I know what you mean. The shoulders of the manifold outlet pipe are angled. The only other solution is take them down to flat with a grinder but one could risk the manifold itself.

Bobsticle · Feb 5, 2018

Just been out to try welding the studs in from the top.

Not happening.

I’ll pick some bolts up.

Bobsticle · Feb 5, 2018

The other problem may be the bolts won’t go in from the top as the pipe work will get in the way. I’m sure it’ll sort itself out in the morning.

Simon Perks · Feb 6, 2018

I did nuts n bolts ... but had to take a bit off one flat of the bolt to get the angle right ... works fine though.

Bobsticle · Feb 6, 2018

Not been back out today. Snowed off. Roll on tomorrow.
I have ground the manifold a little flatter round the stud holes. I’ll se how they sit. Weather permitting.

Exhaust manifold studs

De Villes Advocaat

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

De Villes Advocaat

Active Member

Active Member

De Villes Advocaat

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

De Villes Advocaat

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

De Villes Advocaat

De Villes Advocaat

De Villes Advocaat

De Villes Advocaat

Active Member

De Villes Advocaat

Similar threads