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does anybody know the part numbers for the bolts in the exhaust manifold and how many to fit a 2000 4.6 Thor ordered new gaskets may aswell replace all the bolts on it and heat shields
P38A Exhaust manifold bolts
- Thread starter pete12345
- Start date
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Thanks for that
ukadamwest
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- Isle Sheppy
Have u got any part numbers as looked at that site but it doesn’t say cheers
ukadamwest
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ERR4961 is the part number.
if you click on the link. look at the list on the right click on the + sign by 4 and it will show you the part number. keep that link as you can look up all part numbers for the RR
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Found them cheers ukadamwest never read site properly as usual rush rush thanks again
ukadamwest
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oh by the way.. to do the lower manifold bolt on number 8 be prepared with a socket UJ plenty of swearing and fiddling about its right ***ker.
i found the way to get the manifold gaskets on was to line up the gaskets on the thread of the bold and wind top on number 8 in gently *by Hand* you don't want to bugger the thread up and then number 3 and get the rest in by hand. the metal gaskets are sized to grip the bolt on one side. but torqueing that final lower bolt on number 8 will lead to cursing. Rave says to remove the Steering rod.
however MartyUK suggested the way he did his was to remove the wheel and the wheel arch liner and you can get straight on the bolt that way with an extension. i couldn't get the steering rod out so spent ages buggering around by feel to get it torqued up
i found the way to get the manifold gaskets on was to line up the gaskets on the thread of the bold and wind top on number 8 in gently *by Hand* you don't want to bugger the thread up and then number 3 and get the rest in by hand. the metal gaskets are sized to grip the bolt on one side. but torqueing that final lower bolt on number 8 will lead to cursing. Rave says to remove the Steering rod.
however MartyUK suggested the way he did his was to remove the wheel and the wheel arch liner and you can get straight on the bolt that way with an extension. i couldn't get the steering rod out so spent ages buggering around by feel to get it torqued up
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- 19,297
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- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
To get the steering column apart you need a second person to waggle the steering wheel side to side while you're pulling it apart. That seems to work. Even with it out space is tight. Getting those heat shields off and then the manifold and exhaust bolts took as long as the rest of the job.
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- Preston Lancs.
Have you lot never heard of a wobbler?
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- 19,297
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- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Thrown a few ... usually after tackling those f*cking bolts!
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- 58,170
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- Preston Lancs.
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- Isle Sheppy
Cheers for all the advice fink I will remove the wheel and inner wing
Scotiawhiskers
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Tell me about it. Have discovered thanks to here but only the second side, that you get much better access with the arch liner removed. When you also discover the rusted off bits for the mudflap / wheelarch liner supports at the back....
Will be doing the arch liner removal on the passenger side for reinstatement too. Before was leaning in with a mirror wedged on the chassis rail to try to see where I was cutting with the flexi shaft Dremel. Bolts were shot and seized so I actually cut the heatshield round the heads. I think refitting will involve heavy stainless cable ties to get the outer shields back on. There is maybe one or 2 bolts that may be fittable to assist - they will get copper greased and done up very lightly, and probably also stainless instead of mild to try to avoid issues.
Driver's side heat shield access is much improved with the liner out but still need to work the steering linkage off to get anywhere near the front lower bolt.
Outer shield made in a top and bottom section, each with a flange overlapping the inner half at the top / bottom to locate them, then just bolted with the 2 extended mountings in the middle would have made so much more sense to me. Also would have been less fittings and quicker on the assembly line as standard too.
