Engine won't Start

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Colin from Hull

Active Member
Posts
299
Hi
I have a 1997 P38 Range Rover 4.0se.

I replaced head-gaskets maybe six months ago, the engine started ok and carried on doing so. Then after a while it started to miss fire. and just got worst until now it wont start it only turning over now.

I have a spark at the top of the plugs on all the leads using the inline spark testers, I have petrol in the injector rail, this is confirmed when depressing the valve.
my next thing was a compression test.

Just want to ask everyone on here if there is anything obvious I should also check as well.
 
Fuel, compression and ignition should give a start.
Is it popping and quacking? Are the plugs wet after a while cranking?
 
Hi
Before it stop altogether, I had to really pump my pedal to get the engine to start, and keep revving it otherwise to drop straight away and stalled, tried adjusting tick over just to get it to run, but it did seemed lumpy when running.
The odd cough, plugs wet, plugs black , lots of black smoke from exhaust on the driveway.
what values should the compression test be Wet / Dry
 
OK, if the plugs are wet and there's a spark then it can only be timing (ignition or cam) or lack of compression.
I would say that as it's been going slowly worse since head gaskets, it's unlikely to be cam timing so if it were mine, a compression test would be next on my list.
I would also be checking MAF, crank sensor and temp sensors.
Could do with getting it on diagnostic as well just to check if there are any faults stored.
 
Hi
I carried out a compression test most around 140 one higher and one lower, felt it should good enough to run.
so put some new spark plugs in, connected everything up and it at least started but lumpy. so I had a few spares from other Rovers so I swapped my MAF a simple swap, tried it and runs fine.
So my questions are..... What does this do? And why would it suddenly go faulty?
 
No expert, but I believe MAFs use a heated wire, which varies resistance depending on the engines varying greed for air. More air, more resistance, which is signalled to ECU for fuelling via injectors.
Only operates open loop once started I think.

They just 'go' sometimes, like a bulb filament.
 
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