Freelander 1 Engine removal
- Thread starter jacob-65
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Alteredtech
Well-Known Member
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- 527
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- France
Hi,
Why do you need to remove the engine ?
This is not suitable for benniners, only for experienced DIY mechanic. If something goes wrong you end with a falling engine !
Find someone experienced, that have the tooling to remove the engine.
You should find a workshop manual and follow the procedure.
Why do you need to remove the engine ?
This is not suitable for benniners, only for experienced DIY mechanic. If something goes wrong you end with a falling engine !
Find someone experienced, that have the tooling to remove the engine.
You should find a workshop manual and follow the procedure.
Last edited:
Thanks for your reply, the engine need to removed I have one bent piston rod we called it Holland waterslag, water above the piston is not compressible. I need to look inside the engine if there is more damaged. I am pretty experienced ( unfortunately not with a freelander 1.8 2004) but need a quick answer before I make further decisions. Hopefully I can overhaul this engine.
Alteredtech
Well-Known Member
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- 527
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- France
The gearbox has only one mount on the left side of the car under the battery. The gearbox is bolted to the engine and also bolted to the IRD. The IRD is cooled by the engine coolant.
So you need to flush the coolant, remove the IRD, then the gearbox. Then you can remove the engine.
So you need to flush the coolant, remove the IRD, then the gearbox. Then you can remove the engine.
GrumpyGel
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- Christchurch, New Zealand
Is it easier to remove the engine/box/IRD as one lump?
Is there room? Either lifting or dropping.
Is there room? Either lifting or dropping.
J_D
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- Worcestershire
Did the cam belt survive? If not you could be looking at new valves and if one or more broke new piston. I would take off head first to see damage.
htr
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- Central Otago, Southern New Zealand
What does RAVE or a Haynes manual say? I'd guess IRD off then motor and g'box out as a unit. But, prob' easier to remove IRD & G'box first - then motor.
You can remove head before/instead of removing motor - valves can be checked / replaced as needed.
Sump off too to see crank bolts - so you could get at the suspect piston & rod without removing motor.
Do not turn crank with the head off - the cylinder liners will move and then you will have to reseal them...
Remember to clamp cylinder liners with old head bolts [spacers & washers] before rotating the crank when the head is off.
You can remove head before/instead of removing motor - valves can be checked / replaced as needed.
Sump off too to see crank bolts - so you could get at the suspect piston & rod without removing motor.
Do not turn crank with the head off - the cylinder liners will move and then you will have to reseal them...
Remember to clamp cylinder liners with old head bolts [spacers & washers] before rotating the crank when the head is off.
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The procedure is in RAVE. Look for the version with TSB as that covers the 1.8 in the workshop manual section. Don't have a haynes, but it will probably include DIY shortcuts as well.
Alibro
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- Northern Ireland
There is no point trying to keep the gearbox in as you will need to remove the drive shaft in the IRD anyway. I'm assuming that's why you want to keep the gearbox in as I can't think of any other reason.
Drop the lot as a single lump as suggested above and unbolt as required while on the ground.
As mentioned by htr do the work with the engine in place and save yourself the grief. I've had the sump and head off a K series before without removing it.
Drop the lot as a single lump as suggested above and unbolt as required while on the ground.
As mentioned by htr do the work with the engine in place and save yourself the grief. I've had the sump and head off a K series before without removing it.
