Engine removal

Hey, I've just bought a Rangey and it is seized. I have waited all day for a pick up truck to help me get the vehicle home as I understand that you are not supposed to tow them. Just a quick question that is causing me a lot of worry that you guys may be able to help me out with. The car was winched on the back of a flat bed and I put the car in neutral. However, when I got back home I was told to roll the car off the back of the flat bed to gain some momentum to get all the way up my driveway. I thought I had put it in neutral but I accidentally had it in drive. I let the car roll off the back of the flat bed in drive instead of neutral and i'm concerned that this could have damaged the transmission. It only rolled a matter of 5m. Is this likely to cause any damage?

Thanks for your help.[emoji4]

no

EeEk said:

no

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God that has made me feel a lot better. Thanks!

So if the engine is seized and it was able to roll whilst in drive, does that mean the clutch was disengaged and slipping? Sorry I've not a clue on how the automatic transmission and clutch work on these cars. Please excuse my lack of knowledge. [emoji20]

Automatics use a torque converter, which in very basic terms is a hydraulic pump that propels you forward or backwards, so no clutch you haven't done any damage at all, by rolling it in D. You would have to tow it above 40 MPH for a while before you damaged it.

Pump not pumping so nothing engaged anyway

Thanks guys, really appreciate it.

I've downloaded the RAVE manual and I can find just about everything to do replacing parts of the engine but I can't seem to find anywhere a detailed procedure for removal of the engine. Anyone know where this is in the manual? Thanks

I was told by the previous keeper that the water pump failed and then it overheated but he continued to run it until it stopped. So it is well and truly cooked! I was considering two alternatives, rebuilding existing with flanged iron liners to suit LPG or just to buy a replacement engine from the likes of eBay. What's your thoughts?

Either you didn't say which RR you've bought or I missed it. The only RV8 that's very unlikely to slip liners is the original 3.5 used up to Sept '89. All later engines 3.9/4.0/4.2/4.6 can suffer this serious problem & the only real way to tell is to hear the engine running & warm up from cold.

norseman said:

Either you didn't say which RR you've bought or I missed it. The only RV8 that's very unlikely to slip liners is the original 3.5 used up to Sept '89. All later engines 3.9/4.0/4.2/4.6 can suffer this serious problem & the only real way to tell is to hear the engine running & warm up from cold.

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Its a L322 2002 model V8 4.4. The engine has seized, have been working on it today, will upload some pics. Ive now managed to find the engine refit procedure in the RAVE manual thanks.

One slight problem though, I need remove 4 bolts securing the torque converter to drive plate and to do this I need to be able to rotate the crank. Obviously with a seized engine this isnt possible so are there any alternatives, like removing the torque convertor still attached to the drive plate?


Look at the state of that spark plug, no wonder the engine has seized. I've never seen a spark plug this bad before, looks like something has hit it?

Thanks

Yep, that's definitely been in contact with something unexpected. Valve head maybe or if the liner slipped the piston could have broken up.

SpringDon said:

Yep, that's definitely been in contact with something unexpected. Valve head maybe or if the liner slipped the piston could have broken up.

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I thought these blocks were alusil and didn't have iron liners. Im pretty sure that the alusil liner is not an insert as such but part of the block casting. I'm new to this though so I may be talking out of my backside.

Alun1976 said:

I thought these blocks were alusil and didn't have iron liners. Im pretty sure that the alusil liner is not an insert as such but part of the block casting. I'm new to this though so I may be talking out of my backside.

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alusil isnt a liner , its ali bore with the rings running on silcon bits with in it

Alun1976 said:

One slight problem though, I need remove 4 bolts securing the torque converter to drive plate and to do this I need to be able to rotate the crank. Obviously with a seized engine this isnt possible so are there any alternatives, like removing the torque convertor still attached to the drive plate?

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Anyone?

Remove heads, put a socket attached to a long bar on the end of the crank, leap up and down on the bar and get someone to shove a bit of timber in one of the bores on top of a piston.
Then take a lump hammer and give the timber a good ****ting!
Something will move!

Remove sump , and then you will be able to find what has seized and take action to free it enough to revolve . From the point of view of removing with torque converter still bolted to flex plate , this should be possible, just be very careful to keep in line , for reassembly a definite no no as TQ C has to be properly engaged in box (pump) .

Ok, Ive got the engine rotating through 90 degress and it seems very smooth. I can see the top of the conrod in cynder 3 on bank 1 so this must mean that the piston has exploded in the bore. Im gonna remove bank one cylinder head and see the condition of the bores. Will take some pics.

Anyone know if the exhaust manifold can stay attached when removing bank one cylinder head?? I've unbolted the exhaust where it meets the flange on the manifold.

Thanks

Found the culprit!

Jeez .. maybe a bit more needed than a simple honing out!

Good luck ...

A tip.
Many years ago on a very foggy night, the piston broke up on my BSA c15. Having few spares, I wrapped the small end in an inner tube and shaped it with a couple of jubilee clips.
Having established it had compression, I tried to see if it would run...would it buggery, you didn't really expect a rubber piston held together with jubilee clips to work did you?
At this point the fog lifted and I realised I was only 100 yards away from home.

Hope this helps.

Well, I've made the decision to fit the e53 x5 engine. As far as I am led to believe , I just need to change the sump over, the oil pick up and the inlet manifold and that's all that is required. Has anyone else actually put an x5 engine in their Rangey?