Engine out - what's essential to do?

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congo181

congo181

Well-Known Member
Posts
519
Location
Maidstone, Kent, U.K.
Hi folks - so now I have the motor out and I have fixed the clutch issue, I want to make a list of essential parts to do whilst I'm in this situation. Its an '87 110 2.5NA with 96K. One owner and been standing since 2003.
Here's my list so far - feel free to comment or suggest additions.

1. Timing Belt and idler change.
2. Leaky sump gasket
3. New clutch, cover, bearing & input shaft bush. Considering the arm as well as mine looks stock i.e. not with the welded bar across the pivot.
4. Front and rear main oil seals.
5. Replace rotten injector pipes.
6. Have injectors serviced?
7. Rotten brake Lines in engine bay
8. All filters
9. Core plugs

I'm considering swapping the following but would welcome thoughts, but its not like they're hard to get to.
Water Pump
Thermostat
Lift Pump
All water Hoses
Bushes? Poly or what?

Lastly, should I be removing the boxes whilst the motors out? I don't want to miss the opportunity if there's totally necessary service items that are way easier to do now. There are small leaks from both the front and back of the main box but the transfer is dry.

Thanks all and sorry for the long post :)
Jim
 
Last edited:
Definitely do the brake pipes. Check the front turrets for rust, a bit easier to change them and the front dampers while the engine is out but only marginally. Plus all the other things you said. Oh, and all core plugs, cheap easy job but some will be a mare with the engine in.
 
Number 1 yes.
number 2 yes'
number 3 yes. If fork is good weld [ or have welded ] a cross strip. Also check the pivot point for the fork is round and smooth. Dab of grease when it goes back.
number 4 yes. Use original quality seals and follow rear seal fitting instructions carefully.
number 5 yes.
number 6 Have them checked anyway.
number 7 yes.
number 8 yes.
number 9 yes, more so if engine was left dry or without coolant.
Water pump yes.
Thermostat yes.
Lift pump yes.
Hoses yes.
Bushes after all above done.
 
What about the gearbox? Is this much easier to remove with the engine out? It seems to me that it’s going to benefit from main seals just as much as the engine.
 
What state is the loom in? If it's had any bodges over the years, now would be a good time to cut out the tat and splice in decent connections, check earth straps etc as they can damage/corrode internally
 
congo181 said:
What about the gearbox? Is this much easier to remove with the engine out? It seems to me that it’s going to benefit from main seals just as much as the engine.
Click to expand...
Engine crane through the passenger door is easiest. There are two points to attach lifting chains which will pick it up level but I forget where they are. I marked mine with yellow paint if the box has to come out again, @jamesmartin told me iirc .
The whole transmission is very unbalanced but a doddle if you use the correct lift points. The gearbox is quite light it's the transfer that's proper heavy. You don't have to take the seatbox out but it's even easier if you do and if that needs work you may as well remove it for repairs then drop the box, if seatbox is sound (check battery box especially) then you just need to remove the centre middle seat and cover to drop it.
The gear levers snag iirc and I removed the turret and the difflock linkage and handbrake lever too but I can't remember why.
 
If the front gearbox input shaft is leaking [ mine was at last clutch change ] easy job while engine out.
Any thing at the rear of the gearbox will mean splitting from the transfer box.
 
Flossie said:
Engine crane through the passenger door is easiest. There are two points to attach lifting chains which will pick it up level but I forget where they are. I marked mine with yellow paint if the box has to come out again, @jamesmartin told me iirc .
The whole transmission is very unbalanced but a doddle if you use the correct lift points. The gearbox is quite light it's the transfer that's proper heavy. You don't have to take the seatbox out but it's even easier if you do and if that needs work you may as well remove it for repairs then drop the box, if seatbox is sound (check battery box especially) then you just need to remove the centre middle seat and cover to drop it.
The gear levers snag iirc and I removed the turret and the difflock linkage and handbrake lever too but I can't remember why.
Click to expand...
I remember why I had to remove the turret etc. My engine was still in so the box had to be moved back for the input shaft to clear the pressure plate but the turret etc snagged on the seatbox. Your engine is out so box can go straight down not back and down.
 
It's also a good time to check your footwells/bulkhead for rust and weld it up while access is good. I'd also recommend removing the wings and using copper grease on all the wing bolts. Refitting the engine will be much easier with the wings off anyway.
 
kermit_rr said:
What state is the loom in? If it's had any bodges over the years, now would be a good time to cut out the tat and splice in decent connections, check earth straps etc as they can damage/corrode internally
Click to expand...
Looks standard to me. It’s off the engine but it’s pretty grubby. Is there a good cleaning method for a loom?
 
Thanks for all the great advice and ideas.
I’ve been removing the dash this evening to get access to the bulkhead as the LHS is shot in the normal place. I think the A pillar is ok but not 100% sure.
Body repair is something I’ve never done so this is a journey.
Oh - how the hell does the wiper motor separate from the drive?
 
6BC5740F-7BAC-4698-BBE5-986E5A246496.jpeg
zeaphod said:
It's also a good time to check your footwells/bulkhead for rust and weld it up while access is good. I'd also recommend removing the wings and using copper grease on all the wing bolts. Refitting the engine will be much easier with the wings off anyway.
Click to expand...
The bulkhead needs some work but I like your ide of removing the wings too. Thanks.
6BC5740F-7BAC-4698-BBE5-986E5A246496.jpeg
 
congo181 said:
Thanks for all the great advice and ideas.
I’ve been removing the dash this evening to get access to the bulkhead as the LHS is shot in the normal place. I think the A pillar is ok but not 100% sure.
Body repair is something I’ve never done so this is a journey.
Oh - how the hell does the wiper motor separate from the drive?
Click to expand...

Post pics if your unsure we like pics...
IMG_20210131_120226.jpg
IMG_20210317_165251~2.jpg



My repair for a customers door bottom frame
IMG_20210318_171527.jpg
 
I'm in the middle of doing something similar on 1997 300tdi, as I had the engine and gearbox out for a full chassis up rebuild I fully stripped engine, crank out job. 90 was a farm hack and looked like it had been worked hard with 104kmiles so I checked bores which were well in tolerance, i checked crank for wear and it had none, I repalced all bearings as I was in the engine but the original bearings were only just starting to wipe a bit of white metal off and that was probably due to crap oil and the fact it had the head replaced at some point. It had no coolant in it just water! Typical farm vehicle. If Engine is out and your pretty competent replace all bearings/gaskets,seals and piston rings, the extra couple of hours it takes shall be well worth it as you wont be worrying about it failing. Having just about finished engine rebuild (tmr :)) You will have a real sense of accomplishment.
 
congo181 said:
Thanks for all the great advice and ideas.
I’ve been removing the dash this evening to get access to the bulkhead as the LHS is shot in the normal place. I think the A pillar is ok but not 100% sure.
Body repair is something I’ve never done so this is a journey.
Oh - how the hell does the wiper motor separate from the drive?
Click to expand...
It's been a while but the large flat plate held on by small bolts, remove that and cable attachment can be seen.
 
zeaphod said:
It's also a good time to check your footwells/bulkhead for rust and weld it up while access is good. I'd also recommend removing the wings and using copper grease on all the wing bolts. Refitting the engine will be much easier with the wings off anyway.
Click to expand...
I’m in the process of trying to remove the wing. Is it necessary to remove the inner wing first?
Are they *really* self tappers holding it on to the door pillar???
 
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