Engine oil
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andyb66
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A good quality 5w/30 semi-synthetic. Castrol or Shell.
discool
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Most oil companies have a vehicle search here's Castrol's http://www.castrol.com/castrol/iframe.do?categoryId=9024084&contentId=7044829
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Tractor Universal from any of the big makes.
It is BY FAR a better oil than that supermarket crap.
Check the specs.
Oh yes, and it costs about £1.30 a litre! I buy mine in 210 litre barrels.
You could buy a 25 litres drum for a little over £30, and get four full oil changes from it.
CharlesY
It is BY FAR a better oil than that supermarket crap.
Check the specs.
Oh yes, and it costs about £1.30 a litre! I buy mine in 210 litre barrels.
You could buy a 25 litres drum for a little over £30, and get four full oil changes from it.
CharlesY
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Castrol probably spend more on advertising than they do on the oils!
DON'T PAY FOR HYPE !!!
Pay for excellent premium grade oil that is designed to be FARMER-PROOF!
My TD5 is over 50,000 miles on TUOils, since I got it at 18,000 miles,
New oil and filter every 6 - 8,000 miles whether it needs it or not.
CharlesY
Can you be more specific, the only tractor oil I can find is 15w30 grade.
That will be PERFECT!!!
Don't get all wound up about Viscosity grades this W and that.
It really doesn't matter.
What your engine likes best is the following:
CLEAN oil - so change the oil and filters at reasonable intervals, or if it gets very black.
Oil designed for TURBO DIESELS - a good all-round specification list.
Oil with a REASONABLE VISCOSITY, not too thin and not too thick.
STRONG oils, that can stand a bit of abuse - farmer-proof oils!
THICK oil is BAD, because even if it helps keep pressure up, the FLOW may be so sluggish that things like pistons overheat, and bearings melt because not enough FLOW is taking place to carry away HEAT. Pressure means almost nothing - FLOW is everything. Correct oil pressure means correct oil FLOW if you are using a suitable viscosity grade
A nice runny oil is good because it flows like crazy right from the start and gets to work LUBRICATING.
15-30, 15W-30, 10w30, 15w40 all that stuff would all be good.
If you were in the Sahara desert you might use a 20-50.
But I don't think you are.
CharlesY
Becks Bear
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CharlesY
i am not new to landys, however i am new to a TD5, a disco 2 2004 es model
i am about to do a full fluid change including the engine oil so is 13/30 10/30 good for my disco engine?
my oil for the othe landys was framer proof oil lol lol
That is what my Disco is.
You must make sure the oil you will use is a good one for TURBO DIESELS, with a nice long list of approval letters after it.
13/30 doesn't exist as far as I know. T he numbers are usually in multiples of 10, occasionally 5s
10/30 might ...and if it was a TU-oil for turbo diesels, fine.
Remember to change the filter can and fit a new centrifuge at the same time.
I change the filter can every oil change, and the centrifuge every second change, more or less every 5,000 to 8,000 miles.
CharlesY
MR D.
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Is a 15/40 ok to use as my owners book states 5/30 or 10/40.
Thanks
Thanks
G-man
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erm i am gonna have to say that that is bad advise!!!!
it may work for some engines but if you used that theory in all engines you would end up with big problems
for instance
a customer of mine has a 1930s car ( some american thing) that requires a thick single grade mineral oil as its what it was designed to take
alternately if you put a 15w/40 mineral in a VAG car with a PD engine you would end up with a set of seized injectors and it was designed to run using a 0w10 synthetic oil with a specific blend of additives
car manufacturers spend millions on oil research and engine design which allows tighter tolerances and longer service life sticking any old oil in worked in the 70s and 80s but modern engines won't like it
I ran our golf TDi PD with what ever i could find in the back of the garage and didnt have any probs for over 50K miles (25L of oil for the TD5 = £30, 5lt of oil for the golf = £55
). I agree with Charles as I know someone who ran their 96 disco V8 including all box/diff oils on JCB oils. Ran like a dream for years until the body rusted and fell off!!I ran our golf TDi PD with what ever i could find in the back of the garage and didnt have any probs for over 50K miles (25L of oil for the TD5 = £30, 5lt of oil for the golf = £55
The JCB is based on TRACTORS!
Guess what their oils are .....
CharlesY
G-man
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PASTMASTER
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I know CharlesY has this thing about tractor oil but I think the one problem with his advice is this insistence on changing the oil so regularly. My TD5 only gets serviced once a year because I'm lazy, so I want an oil that will go on performing, and one of the big developments over the years has been to make oils perform for longer (I understand that's one of the big plus points for synthetics btw). If I changed the oil as often as Charles I wouldn't be too concerned what I used, but as I'm servicing to manufacturer's spec I prefer to use the oil they recommend.
That said, if the tractor oil meets the manufacturer's minimum spec it should be fine. There's not so much of it about in sarf London though...
That said, if the tractor oil meets the manufacturer's minimum spec it should be fine. There's not so much of it about in sarf London though...
foss
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if it were meant to have tractor oil in it it would say so...Shell & Castrol might look pretty but they do actually spend £££££'s on protection & cleaning agents to add to your pretty can which is why the pretty can is £40 a go...you get what you pay for...
If tractor oil was as good why do I sell 15000 litres of shell oil every year????
If tractor oil was as good why do I sell 15000 litres of shell oil every year????
foss
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ps I dont work for shell...
