Engine Oil - Keep it simple

CharlesY said:

Slob and Yella and Redhand ..... is that not one prime example of plagiarism? It looks like something I might have penned.

CharlesY

Click to expand...

slob said:

have yer taking into account the built in safety margin that LR have used while coming up with what oil to use?

Click to expand...

riggaz said:

You can only have a safety margin with quality rather than viscosity slob

Click to expand...

CharlesY said:

Well, first I IGNORE all advice from LandRover.
LandRover and all Dealers exist for ONE REASON ONLY
TO MAKE A PROFIT.
ALL their money and all their profit comes from ripping off customers.

LandRover gets PAID by the oil company (Castrol in my manual) to name them in the manuals.

I would NEVER use a Castrol oil after seeing some tests a while back

LandRover say "10W/30 will protect from -10°C to +30°C"

15W/30 will do me fine, and 99% of the time my engine is running at full temperature and under 2,000 rpm in ambient conditions between 5 and 15 degrees C.

I can change the oil and filter for a tenner, and I do it about every 5,000 or 6,000 miles.

If you were being really fussy you would buy a barrel of Ovoline 531
Olex 5W/30 Super Motor Oil which meets the top spec LR asks for, ACEA A1 and B1, and in every respect is EXACTLY what LR say should be used in the TD5.

I still think using these excellent oils is the way to go. The retail profit margins on oils is huge. Oil companies and garages make heaps of profits from lube oils, because so many of the punters can be persuaded to pay huge sums of cash for a litre of oil.

CharlesY

I do agree with you on Castrol oil Charles, i know a farmer who used to use it with the guarantee from the rep that it would last 60000 miles in his lorry or however many hours in his tractor and that he would come back in 6 months and take a sample for testing to make sure it was still good. My friend decided to put a load of brake cleaner and fluid and some graphite in the sample as a joke, a couple of week later the chap came back and said it was good for another 6 months.

When it comes to Land Rover and Dealers, of course they are in it to make money, they're not civil servants. You have to make the assumption that the engine designers are the ones that have specified the grade and viscosity rather than Land Rover and they usually specify them for a reason after a long period of research and development. Land Rover main dealers have a high hourly rate usually because it costs so much to maintain a franchise to Land Rovers standards this however is no excuse to charge 500 quid for a standard service. When we were Skoda dealers they would change their mind on decor every 6 months which would cost about £40k a time to rectify and if you didn't you would lose the franchise, we had to spend an extra £300k on expansion to meet their idea of what a skoda dealer should look like and after 8 months they decided it still wasn't good enough and wanted us to spend a cool million £ on expanding again. Try making that back on service work and 2k profit on each car needless to say we told em to get ****ed, i shudder to think what the deal at LR is and thankfully you and me don't have to go there.
With regards to business, all business is about making huge profits, even Ovoline will be making huge profits on the oil you buy by reducing the additive package in it and selling **** loads of it, it's the only way they can make money which is why the SUTO 15w/30 is the budget tractor oil and the Fieldmaster 10w/30 is the premium tractor oil with a more generous additive package but will obviously cost more. As the product goes down the supply chain to someone that is selling comparatively small amounts of it then the price has to come up to give the little guy a decent return on it, the smaller the amount the higher the unit price this is a fact of retail. The only reason your oil cost less than a £1 a litre is you buy it in bulk 205ltr barrel maybe? If you were to buy just a couple of gallons of it at the same place it would cost a lot more.

Click to expand...

yella said:

ey oop, looks like rig ass has finished his sentence

Click to expand...

Percy Pongo said:

Right Guys, thanks for your input, and christ what input (and box). It looks like i will go for some super universal tractor oil 15W/40. Once again thanks.

Click to expand...

pussyeater said:

It will be a 15w/30 m8

Click to expand...

CharlesY said:

And it will be PERFECT for many Ks of miles!

I change mine in the TD5 about every 5-6 K miles, which physically removes almost all of the crap from inside the motor.

CharlesY

Click to expand...