Engine oil for N/A

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Do a fookin search!! And then change ya oil seal!!
Senior member you's should know better than that! :p
Can't even laf at you being a noobie!
 
Maxyman. Lol before u start shouting I did a "fooking search". U be supraised how many variants came back. Reason I asked was I have done three different ratings and types. Like. Mineral. Semi synthetic etc and a simple tractor oil at 40/15 etc. I just want to see which one came up tops from personal experiences I found tractor oil to be ok but hotter engine and the semi synthetic to be rough in winter etc. tractor oil from tractor farm shop is cheap 30 litre for 24 quids I know it don't really matter as long u change oil regularly
 
Make sure you use mineral oil, not semi or fully synthetic, your engine is designed for mineral oil, anything else will just **** out of it every chance it gets.
Dont use fookin tractor oil , you dont own a tractor. I use millers in mine, comma if you are hard up but think about it, oil keeps your engine healthy so why put the wrong type or cheap rubbish in there?
 
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Nobber. I agree I have never used fully synthetic. I has some semi ones left over from my prev disco 200tdi. When I sold that to a mate who got it. But anyway. Mineral seems the way go. Yes Miller is good stuff. Agree.

I can't believe I gotta change the rear seal £5 part will become 60 odd quids lol. Might well stick new clutch when I'm there Good job it is defender. Easier then disco lol.
 
Taffy said:
Samc88. I see u rebuilted your 90 FFR. Mine is the same. Got mine from withams I wanna do rebuilt it to some extend -)
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What makes you think you need to rebuild it? A leaky rear main seal dosen't mean it needs a rebuild. A dry and a wet compression check would be the gudie for a rebuild. Rear main seal do dry out and leak. Just change the main seal and drive it, unless it is really fooked
 
No. Tidy it up. Paintwork is peeling off. Some rust on floor pan etc. Not just the seal -). All the poly brushes is gone. There is fair few jobs to do etc.
 
Taffy said:
Yes maxyman. A morning's work. Will order plates and kit etc Borg ones. The oil is looking good on the drive lol. -). Wife goes mad !!
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Yeh if got a few pairs of hands and engine crane makes it 10x quicker ;)
Haha loved my old N/a for that aswell, wasn't to bad parked on grass/ gravel so didn't matter about the main drive lol.

Me 200 started leaking around the sump will have clean it up and re seal her with some rtv. Not as bad as old n/a isn't leaking onto the floor yet lol.
 
Lol I agree. But I'm considering to look for mot scrapped disco to get the 200 tdi and put that in. With disco tyranny. And pas too -). So I'm sort of delaying the rear seal for the moment !!
 
nobber said:
Make sure you use mineral oil, not semi or fully synthetic, your engine is designed for mineral oil, anything else will just **** out of it every chance it gets.
Dont use fookin tractor oil , you dont own a tractor. I use millers in mine, comma if you are hard up but think about it, oil keeps your engine healthy so why put the wrong type or cheap rubbish in there?
Click to expand...

in its day super universal tractor oil was perfect for 2.5s far better than the castrol ****e they used to recommend
 
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