Engine Oil Cooler pipes & cooler

Hi Guys

First of all thank you. This site has been a brilliant resource which has been built up over the years.

My 2.5 diesel auto has the "classic" weeping symptoms on both the feed and return oil cooler pipes.

On the many threads on here I understand (and discussing with a couple garages) removing said pipes without messing up the thread on the oil cooler is a difficult task! I've also seen the works arounds but want to keep it as it is unless I am strongly convinced otherwise!

Had a look at RAVE and there doesn't appear to be a step by step process for removing the pipes and cooler and hence a few questions:
1. Do the connections on the engine seize just as badly as the ones to the oil cooler? If these get knackered, what needs replacing and at what cost?
2. I've been advised to you use genuine land rover parts for the pipes as the longevity of other parts is questionable....any thoughts on this?
3. Assuming the pipes are removed without damaging any connections, should anything be put on the threads to help the aluminium/steel from bonding in the future or is this inevitable?

Is there anything else I should be aware of when refitting the new pipes (and cooler)?

Hi, the engine end connections don't have the same problem as the cooler end. If you don't mind having your motor off the road for a few days then try and undo the cooler ends, if they have been on for a while then I would bet that the threads rip off the cooler as you undo the pipes. A bit of copperslip may help on assembly but the reaction of aluminium and steel over time I think is inevitable. Don't know about only using only R/R parts, lots on the market just use a good suppiler:welcome2:

Thanks Tom.

Take it Britpart are not on the list of reliable manufacturers?

The pipes are £15 + VAT each for the Britpart ones and £75 + VAT for the genuine Land Rover ones!!

Any recommended manufacturers would be appreciated...

andycam82 said:

Thanks Tom.

Take it Britpart are not on the list of reliable manufacturers?

The pipes are £15 + VAT each for the Britpart ones and £75 + VAT for the genuine Land Rover ones!!

Any recommended manufacturers would be appreciated...

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Oil pipes should be OK from ****part

Datatek said:

Oil pipes should be OK from ****part

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If they are **** and start leaking in the next 12 months the joint between the oil cooler and the pipe shouldn't have stuck by then?

Thanks for the advice - ****part it is!

I did this job last year. I bought replacement pipes, expecting problems, but then managed to undo the old connections. I was doing several jobs over a few days and had time to use a combination of WD40 and penetrating oil.

andycam82 said:

If they are **** and start leaking in the next 12 months the joint between the oil cooler and the pipe shouldn't have stuck by then?

Thanks for the advice - ****part it is!

Click to expand...

If you have to replace the cooler, make sure you use the tophat washers on the O/S end bracket, this allows the cooler to move when it expands with heat

Britpart pipes and coolers are ok. As said copaslip on the threads.