Freelander 2 (LR2) Engine oil Change MY 2007

Well yesterdays dry day was taken advantage of by doing a quick engine oil and filter change from today and over the weekend the rear diff, PTU, and the Haldex, gearbox oils will be changed.

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Exhaust will be rubbed down also, and painted up.
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Awkward oil filter so used the tool i made to do the job
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New O-ring fitted and a little new oil on the O-ring before re-fitting the oil pot and filter.

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New copper washer for the oil drain plug.
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Make sure oil filter is fitte3d correctly then add new oil.
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Move onto the oil changes above today and this weekend.

The rusty pipe is the boost pipe from the turbo to intercooler. It's much more rusty than mine is, but that could be down to mine being wet with oil before I fix the oil leaks.

Nodge68 said:

The rusty pipe is the boost pipe from the turbo to intercooler. It's much more rusty than mine is, but that could be down to mine being wet with oil before I fix the oil leaks.

Click to expand...

Hi John.
Yes it seems to have got worse over the last couple of years, not sure but are the boost pipe stainless. hopefully by the end of Sunday it will look totally different.

Arctic2 said:

Hi John.
Yes it seems to have got worse over the last couple of years, not sure but are the boost pipe stainless. hopefully by the end of Sunday it will look totally different.

Click to expand...

If they're stainless, it's really low quality stainless. At least the inside won't go rusty.

Sunday i only managed to do the rear diff oil, today has been a wash out again, hopefully tomorrow will let me do a little more.

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Last done in 2020.
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Really need to add drain hole in the MY07 diff but where? this is not ideal.
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Anyone done a drain hole on the MY07 diff.

Nodge68 said:

If they're stainless, it's really low quality stainless. At least the inside won't go rusty.

Click to expand...

Hi John.
Yes i doubt they are stainless but i managed to clean it up somewhat, also changed the gearbox oil yesterday while the weather was kind, plan to do the PTU drainplug the weekend fingers crossed
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Hi Guys & Gals.
I changed the gearbox oil again yesterday and new washers were used, they also were used when i did it originally just forgot to mention it so this time round i have.

As with original oil change always make sure you can undo the filler plug first before draining out the old oil, otherwise you could be in a pickle.

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Drain plug undone & removed, 24mm socket the car on the level oil still flows out so seems ok from the last fill.
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Wheel off and FL2 jacked up using the jacking point to keep it level.
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Level also put on the sill inside the door and the side step.
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My drive has an sloping therefore needs some wood under to make it level from back to front.
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With the under tray removed you can now undo the drain plug.
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24mm ring spanner will do the job nicely, so crack the drainplug ready to remove.
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Place you catch container under the drain plug and remove the drain plug with your fingers, do not drop the plug into the oil container, i used an old bowl.
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Lowered the car on the jack also, this was to help drain all the oil out, let it drain for at least 10mins or more.
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New copper washers ready and waiting once the oil as drained.
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Drain plug with new washer added, and car put back to level

Next i hooked up my pump filler.
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Pumping in the first litre of 2lts
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Let that settle a little then put in the next ltr, which started to overflow.
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Leaving 100ml from the second litre.
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Can of brake cleaner ready to clean and wash away any over flow oil from the gearbox.
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Replace the filler plug with new copper washer.
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Spray with disc brake cleaner.
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Let that wait to dry off and make sure no leaks, in the meantime i checked the old oil which was last done in 2020.
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All looked good and most likely did not need doing, but i am doing all the fluids this spring / summer on both my Fl2's

So 2lts out and new 75w/80 added.
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cleaned up the boost pipe also.
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Double checked the drain plug for leaks, cleaned and dried before putting the undertray back on.
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Hopefully this weekend i can add a PTU drain plug and change the oil easier, that will be another thread.

I finally got to drill and tap the PTU drain plug on MY 07 TD4 manual.

Previous preparation was taken out on the 5/5/24 by marking the area for the drain plug with a punch, and grinding a nice flat surface for the plug, a Dremel with a fine sander on was used.
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I also used a 5p coin as a guide for the size plug to use, this had an hole drilled into it so the centre could be found.
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The tools i had purchased a while before, which where an M10 x 1.0p taper & plug set.
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A set of different taps and dies.
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The oil used was Smith & Allan 75w-90.
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Two types of drain plug an hexagon & an Allen key type.
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Both types M10 x 1.0

I had to wait on a right angled drill i purchased from Ebay to arrive before i could do the job, once arrived i was able to carry out the task on the 15/5-24

First the car was put on the ramps and the under tray removed, six times 13mm bolts.
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The drain plug area was waiting to be drilled.
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Next quick task was to undo the filler plug, this must always be checked before doing any drilling, you need to be able to open the filler plug.
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For this an aviation long ring spanner was used.
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Next make sure you have your tools for the job close to hand, taps drill etc.
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First tool was the angled drill with a 6mm drill bit.
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This was used slowly so not to burst through and do any damage, be ready with your catch bowl/ bucket when the oil starts to flow.
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Now i really should have followed my own advice above, but the bowl was out of my reach so some oil did flow onto the old bed quilt i had under the car.

So i had to quickly grab my bowl after about 12 minutes the oil had come to just a drip.
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The oil looked quite good condition from 2020 when it was last changed.
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This was placed on my work table next to the new oil waiting to go in, and the measure jug
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The old oil was poured into the measuring jug.
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About 500ml was in the jug add that to about 200ml which ended up on the old quilt came to about the 700ml, the PTU was left to drain for another 50 minutes.

Next the drill bit was changed over to an 8.5 drill which would be the size ready for tapping.
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The hole drilled to size.
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Now i needed to tap the hole with the M10-1.0p tap which there were two of one with chamfer end and one with a square end.
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The chamfered tap was used first slowly back and forth.
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Next the square end is used to make sure the thread starts right away inside the hole.
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This was also turned back and forth a few times, until the tap was fully home on the thread.
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You can still see a little oil coming out.
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My next task was to see if i could get anymore oil out using a syringe.
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No oil came out and the drain hole was ready to accept it's new plug
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I then fitted the 10mm drain plug with copper washer.
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Next i tried the Allen key type plug.
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Both fitted great.
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I decided to go with the hexagon drain plug with copper washer, the PTU was then filled using my pump with 700ml of oil.
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After filling it the car was started up left to run a little bit and the drainplug checked for leaks.
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Oil used is below.
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Around midweek 22nd May i will remove the under tray and check again, another job done now i have to repeat the task on MY14 SD4 Auto.

Below are some of the items you would need to carry out the above drain plug modification.



Drills are from 4mm up to 8.5mm when i do the SD4 i will start with a 4mm jump to 6mm then to the 8.5mm

You could by them single or maybe has a set, i already had a set of drills up to 7mm but bought an 8.5mm from below.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350874172814

you can buy these single from anywhere.



Oil.

Pump.

Arctic2 said:

Well yesterdays dry day was taken advantage of by doing a quick engine oil and filter change from today and over the weekend the rear diff, PTU, and the Haldex, gearbox oils will be changed.

1

Exhaust will be rubbed down also, and painted up.

2

Awkward oil filter so used the tool i made to do the job

3

4

New O-ring fitted and a little new oil on the O-ring before re-fitting the oil pot and filter.

5

6

7

New copper washer for the oil drain plug.

8

9

Make sure oil filter is fitte3d correctly then add new oil.

10

Move onto the oil changes above today and this weekend. read more

Click to expand...

Checked the oil yesterday, she's got 5200 on the clock now, and has had one oil change at 1500. OLM indicates it has 56% remaining and the oil level needed about 1/2 - 2/3 of a qt. Is everybody else seeing similar oil consumption? Motor was hot, and had been shut down for 5 minutes.

I'm a daily driver and generally keep my toes out of the injectors but every other day there's a nice freeway on ramp that calls to me...

What's everybody else seeing?

Arctic2 said:

Well yesterdays dry day was taken advantage of by doing a quick engine oil and filter change from today and over the weekend the rear diff, PTU, and the Haldex, gearbox oils will be changed.

1

Exhaust will be rubbed down also, and painted up.

2

Awkward oil filter so used the tool i made to do the job

3

4

New O-ring fitted and a little new oil on the O-ring before re-fitting the oil pot and filter.

5

6

7

New copper washer for the oil drain plug.

8

9

Make sure oil filter is fitte3d correctly then add new oil.

10

Move onto the oil changes above today and this weekend.

Click to expand...

Arctic2 said:

Well yesterdays dry day was taken advantage of by doing a quick engine oil and filter change from today and over the weekend the rear diff, PTU, and the Haldex, gearbox oils will be changed.

1

Exhaust will be rubbed down also, and painted up.

2

Awkward oil filter so used the tool i made to do the job

3

4

New O-ring fitted and a little new oil on the O-ring before re-fitting the oil pot and filter.

5

6

7

New copper washer for the oil drain plug.

8

9

Make sure oil filter is fitte3d correctly then add new oil.

10

Move onto the oil changes above today and this weekend.

Click to expand...

Did my first 2007F2 oil change yesterday. Pair of ramps and a flexi head 27mm ratchet spanner did the trick. Not the easiest filter change I’ve ever done but the £15 Amazon spanner got it done. I was advised by the previous owner to use Magnatec oil and 6L did the job. Old oil black as hell and she runs like a dream now. Surprised how much smoother she runs…

I did a engine oil change and air filter change, second this year, change them at least twice a year, irrespective of how miles are covered, which is no more than 6,000 per year anyways.
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Special I made up to reach the daft oil filter.
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5.5ltr taken out.
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same returned. S&L used they are my fluids of choice for my cars.
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Air filter replaced also after 4 months.
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Should be ok until next sprung now, I'm little early this time round usually later September early October.

Onto now doing the belts, fuel filter, and glow plugs. MY07 TD4 manual

Then the MY14 Ork SD4 Auto

Arctic2 said:

Well yesterdays dry day was taken advantage of by doing a quick engine oil and filter change from today and over the weekend the rear diff, PTU, and the Haldex, gearbox oils will be changed.

1

Exhaust will be rubbed down also, and painted up.

2

Awkward oil filter so used the tool i made to do the job

3

4

New O-ring fitted and a little new oil on the O-ring before re-fitting the oil pot and filter.

5

6

7

New copper washer for the oil drain plug.

8

9

Make sure oil filter is fitte3d correctly then add new oil.

10

Move onto the oil changes above today and this weekend.

Click to expand...

I would love to flog the idiot that put the oil filter there. After the struggle the first time I bought a 27mm adjustable ratchet spanner. This service was a breeze.

A quick update on this thread about the Haldex scrabbling fix which Matt did from Auto fault finder, 12 months have passed and all is still great new fluid is due now and a good cleaning of the pump, and now the gen 4 which is showing in the video below by Matt.




Matt showing how to service gen 4 haldex. Part 1


Part 2.

Arctic2 said:

A quick update on this thread about the Haldex scrabbling fix which Matt did from Auto fault finder, 12 months have passed and all is still great new fluid is due now and a good cleaning of the pump, and now the gen 4 which is showing in the video below by Matt.




Matt showing how to service gen 4 haldex. Part 1


Part 2.

Click to expand...

Good to know Steve - I’m planning on sending mine to him in next couple of weeks for the scrabbling fix. Currently running with the fuse pulled in order to protect the system.
Happily, I know that the Haldex itself has recently been serviced correctly by Nodge .

On the 27th and 28th September i changed the fuel filter on the MY07 Tambora & the MY14 on the Orkney.

Photos to follow later today/this evening when i have time.