Engine misfire - yellow flashing -URGENT
- Thread starter MariusRR
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No need to clear the codes the engine will run correctly once the fault is solved....
Strange it is all one bank....leads me to think, oil contamination, blocked cat, induction issue, knock sensor(s) on that bank, or wiring issues.....
Misfires are mostly detected by the knock sensors, they know when in the engine rotation cycle the ignition will be made via the crank and cam position sensors and the knock sensor measures when it actually happens....any deviation from the known knock positions, the engine thinks it is misfiring....it can tell which cylinders should be firing and when...and then monitors the knock sensors to ensure this happens...when it detects a slightly heavier knock or a knock slightly out of place it will adjust timing of injection, ignition and cam rotation (through the VANOS) to prevent pinking and knocking and ensuring the ignition happens at the right time in the cycle.
If the VANOS is out of tune, the knock sensors aren't fitted correctly or lose connections etc....it could be playing havoc with the ignition and induction cycles causing misfires....
I'd be inclined to take it back to the dealer and get them to sort it as it is their mistake/feck up.....any work you do may invalidate their warranty/guarantee of their workmanship and refuse to sort it out for you!
Getting it on full fat diagnostics with live data should show the knock sensor readings and see if there is roughness in the cycle and when.....I know with the BMW INPA and DIS systems you can see these on the Bimmer vehicles...and the L322 is an X5 in a posh frock!...the Testbook and Dealer computers are very similar to the DIS system and should be able to read this information!
One bank playing games would indicate they haven't fitted that side correctly, be it electrical connections or a mechanical issue with leaking gaskets etc.
Strange it is all one bank....leads me to think, oil contamination, blocked cat, induction issue, knock sensor(s) on that bank, or wiring issues.....
Misfires are mostly detected by the knock sensors, they know when in the engine rotation cycle the ignition will be made via the crank and cam position sensors and the knock sensor measures when it actually happens....any deviation from the known knock positions, the engine thinks it is misfiring....it can tell which cylinders should be firing and when...and then monitors the knock sensors to ensure this happens...when it detects a slightly heavier knock or a knock slightly out of place it will adjust timing of injection, ignition and cam rotation (through the VANOS) to prevent pinking and knocking and ensuring the ignition happens at the right time in the cycle.
If the VANOS is out of tune, the knock sensors aren't fitted correctly or lose connections etc....it could be playing havoc with the ignition and induction cycles causing misfires....
I'd be inclined to take it back to the dealer and get them to sort it as it is their mistake/feck up.....any work you do may invalidate their warranty/guarantee of their workmanship and refuse to sort it out for you!
Getting it on full fat diagnostics with live data should show the knock sensor readings and see if there is roughness in the cycle and when.....I know with the BMW INPA and DIS systems you can see these on the Bimmer vehicles...and the L322 is an X5 in a posh frock!...the Testbook and Dealer computers are very similar to the DIS system and should be able to read this information!
One bank playing games would indicate they haven't fitted that side correctly, be it electrical connections or a mechanical issue with leaking gaskets etc.
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It is the sensor on the exhaust before the cat...i.e. the one closest to the engine!
Will be noisy and they can be a sod to get out!
On the Bimmers with blocked cats, they tend not be willing to rev hard and start misfiring....
Removing this first sensor allows the exhaust gases to escape before they reach the cat...hence if the cat is blocked but it runs better with the sensor out...it confirms such!
MariusRR
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It will propably go back to the garage.
I tried starting it with the plugs on the base out. All four. Then plugging one and one back in. It apparently fires on all of them. I tried switching coil 1 and 2, since the car was hard to start. Made no difference. The valve gasket is not put on right, but I`m not convinced its the culprit here. And then it could be anything related to the electrics. parts are stupid expensive in Norway, so should probably wait until I can get a good diagnosis going.
Is it the same diagnosis system on L322 and BMW? I had BMWs before and my mechanic is a god with BMW, but only does that. Wondered it I should give him a call after christmas
I tried starting it with the plugs on the base out. All four. Then plugging one and one back in. It apparently fires on all of them. I tried switching coil 1 and 2, since the car was hard to start. Made no difference. The valve gasket is not put on right, but I`m not convinced its the culprit here. And then it could be anything related to the electrics. parts are stupid expensive in Norway, so should probably wait until I can get a good diagnosis going.
Is it the same diagnosis system on L322 and BMW? I had BMWs before and my mechanic is a god with BMW, but only does that. Wondered it I should give him a call after christmas
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I have heard of people using INPA and/or DIS with the L322....
The Engine and ECU are the same as the BMW (BOSCH DME 7.1 if I remember correctly) only the LR version is tuned for torque and few revisions to the sump casing and oil pick up!
The Engine and ECU are the same as the BMW (BOSCH DME 7.1 if I remember correctly) only the LR version is tuned for torque and few revisions to the sump casing and oil pick up!
Datatek
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If the cam timing is out it would certainly cause problems.
Datatek
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, hope it's more reliable than Range Rovers.
MariusRR
Active Member
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The garage has finally found out what is wrong. One of the Vanos units is bad. Garage claimant it was bad before the initial repair, but faulted when the car was repaired. Is that right? I would thought they broke it during repair since it worked perfectly before the head gasket job. No rattle, fault codes etc
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That would be my take on the situation but can you prove it?
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Bollocks I'm afraid.....
You have to lock the cams in place and remove the timing chain to the cams and VANOS before you remove the heads, and on refit you may have to retime the VANOS....they bolloxed up by the sounds of things
You have to lock the cams in place and remove the timing chain to the cams and VANOS before you remove the heads, and on refit you may have to retime the VANOS....they bolloxed up by the sounds of things
MariusRR
Active Member
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No but i have refused to pay for the headgasket job until this is sorted. The car was at another garage first for a look over and they did not mention any problems with the vanos
MariusRR
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Happy to hear that. Then I can confidently argue that this is their fault
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Read RAVE, will give you the process....you can then tell them the process from the official workshop manual.
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Here is a link to re-sealing the VANOS gears....towards the end of the process it talks about how to retime the VANOS unit...
It also explains the importance to lock the cams during the process....which would also be the case if removing the heads!
Beisan Systems - Procedures - M62TU Vanos Procedure
It also explains the importance to lock the cams during the process....which would also be the case if removing the heads!
Beisan Systems - Procedures - M62TU Vanos Procedure
