Engine immobilised???

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Yes you end up with two key fobs but is a small price to pay compared with the saving in money over the landrover part.
 
kevwill said:
Cheers Brian. I'll look into that. I guess that means you have to have 2 key fobs.
Before I fit the replacement locks I'm going to try removing the aerial wire from the rf receiver - and see how that works.
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Most likely just end up with synch issues. May still hit locks if strong signal. Wireless weather stations a favourite. And BT Wireless routers. Brian's fix better.
 
kevwill said:
Marty - I love you!!
Haven't got my replacement door locks yet - but had the morning off and it just didn't make sense to me why Fuse 15 blowing would disable the engine or stop me entering the EKA code. So printed off your message and went out to investigate.
Basically fuse 15 was blowing more or less when I connected the battery. The interior lights would come on when I opened the door, then there would be a brief smell of bonfires, lights out - fuse blown. So I took the BECM cover off the front and could see the 2 grey connectors C325 & C323. Couldn't of course see C361 hidden away and buried to the side so was praying that that wouldn't be the culprit. I unplugged both grey connectors - put a new fuse in - and no blow. Plugged back C325 - still no blow. Went to plug C323 back in and noticed there was a miniscule bit of muck (like a bit of brown dried leaf) on the face of the connector. Blew this off and plugged it back in. Still fuse 15 stayed with me.
Then thought I'd try the ignition to see if it blew - it didn't - and the engine started!! Didn't even have to enter an EKA code!
Still not sure why this would have disabled the engine - 'leaves on the track' maybe.
Many many thanks Marty.
Will still have to fit the 2 new front locks as they are both burnt out - and when that's done I'll splash out on a new updated RF receiver.
Will update how that goes.
Rear tailgate lock ok - and according to my manual that is fed by Fuse 14 along with the rear central door locking.
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Sorry I haven't checked back on this in awhile - I've been stupidly busy with work and now out of the country with patchy internet and not a lot of time off for the next 7 weeks!

Glad it was a simple fix! It could have been that something was bridging a couple of the pins in that connector which was making the fuse blow/engine not start. But a simple fix is a good fix!

Door latches and microswitches... well I could go on for hours about them (I refurbish them as/when I have time) - as there are about 3 different setups internally in the door latches across the model years as to how the switches fit in, and how much of a pain they are to replace. The older ones are easier - the newer ones are a not just a 'drop in' replacement.

The version of RAVE I have showed the rear tailgate etc being powered from F15 - but I was looking in the 1997 ETM - maybe it was different prior to that.

Receiver - personal preference. I'm happy with the updated RF receiver, as it's nice just to have one FOB, and it's one less thing in the system. But each to their own! It still has crossed my mind about trying to build an aftermarket receiver that does the same as the LR MK III version, but easier said than done with my electronics knowledge on that side of things!

If you end up with random left over door latches or parts that you don't want, then I'll be more than happy to take them off your hands if you are happy to sell them... add to my stash of ones to rebuild..

Cheers,
Marty
 
martyuk said:
Sorry I haven't checked back on this in awhile - I've been stupidly busy with work and now out of the country with patchy internet and not a lot of time off for the next 7 weeks!

Glad it was a simple fix! It could have been that something was bridging a couple of the pins in that connector which was making the fuse blow/engine not start. But a simple fix is a good fix!

Door latches and microswitches... well I could go on for hours about them (I refurbish them as/when I have time) - as there are about 3 different setups internally in the door latches across the model years as to how the switches fit in, and how much of a pain they are to replace. The older ones are easier - the newer ones are a not just a 'drop in' replacement.

The version of RAVE I have showed the rear tailgate etc being powered from F15 - but I was looking in the 1997 ETM - maybe it was different prior to that.

Receiver - personal preference. I'm happy with the updated RF receiver, as it's nice just to have one FOB, and it's one less thing in the system. But each to their own! It still has crossed my mind about trying to build an aftermarket receiver that does the same as the LR MK III version, but easier said than done with my electronics knowledge on that side of things!

If you end up with random left over door latches or parts that you don't want, then I'll be more than happy to take them off your hands if you are happy to sell them... add to my stash of ones to rebuild..

Cheers,
Marty
Click to expand...

Hi marty. Your right - a tiny piece of gunk bridging a couple of the pins.
I've received my replacement door latches - but won't have a go at changing them until after next weekend - due to work and daughters birthday party - I'll wait till of got a couple of peaceful days.
What i'll do, when I've got the old ones out, is pm you for your address and you're more than welcome to them. It's the least I can do; if I hadn't followed your advice I'd still be scratching my head or organising a tow truck - so thanks again.
And yep, I'm still in favour of getting the updated rf receiver, so that I can have one fob that works properly and not worry about the dreaded battery drain. Expensive I know (£240 from Island 4x4 is the cheapest I've found) - but at least I won't have burnt out door locks and dead batteries.
Cheers. Kevin
 
Last edited:
Hi Kevin,

Very kind of you - thanks! I hope the replacement latches sort out the locking problem - but from what you've described it should do.

Yes, the RF receiver is ridiculously expensive for what it is, hence why many go the route of adding in the extra RF relay to the power source. As I mentioned - I preferred to keep it standard, but can attest that with the new RF receiver and a decent batterys (I only recommend MF31-1000 batteries now!) my RR previously has been left 3-4 weeks at a time regularly when I've been away for work, and it's always started first time when I've got back. I'll be interested to see how she goes when I get back from the current work schedule - as it will have been 8 weeks since it was last started!

Cheers,
Martin
 
odyssey said:
Your fuse problems apart, if the battery had flattened while the car was locked, you may be suffering from the 'confused BECM syndrome' that I (and others) have suffered in similar circumstances, where the becm starts speaking French and forgets its mileage and VIN number . . .
My thread here:- https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/confused-becm-keycode-lockout.283235/ explains it, you'll need diagnostics to get it up and running again though.

Best of luck.
Alastair
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I wondered what the f*** the stealers were on about when I had the keycode lockout, etc. messages on my display and they said I needed a new BECM as mine was from a scrapped French P38 o_O. useless t***s!
I've just been talking about a very nice BECM repair man near Brighton, on another thread on here.
 
French language showing on diagnostics, and also looking at the 'software version' section generally shows 153 in one of the boxes if it's alarmed.

I've seen a few where they have been alarmed and entering the EKA has got it running - but you have to wait for KEY CODE LOCKOUT to disappear before attempting to put the EKA in. On later vehicles (from about '97 on) you can sometimes recover the BECM from alarmed state by putting in the EKA with diagnostics (Nanocom etc) but if that doesn't work, and it is fully locked out, then it is a BECM out and send it off job.
 
martyuk said:
French language showing on diagnostics, and also looking at the 'software version' section generally shows 153 in one of the boxes if it's alarmed.

I've seen a few where they have been alarmed and entering the EKA has got it running - but you have to wait for KEY CODE LOCKOUT to disappear before attempting to put the EKA in. On later vehicles (from about '97 on) you can sometimes recover the BECM from alarmed state by putting in the EKA with diagnostics (Nanocom etc) but if that doesn't work, and it is fully locked out, then it is a BECM out and send it off job.
Click to expand...

Yes BECMs with a PAM code of V36 or later can be disarmed by entering the EKA code with Nanocom. Won't work on earlier versions. PAM code is on label above fuses.
 
wammers said:
Yes BECMs with a PAM code of V36 or later can be disarmed by entering the EKA code with Nanocom. Won't work on earlier versions. PAM code is on label above fuses.
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I've had a couple (even as late as 2000 MY) of BECM's across my bench and house-calls I've still had to hook the Faultmate up to because they are in complete lockout and won't respond to the Nanocom trying to disarm them. I don't know exactly when PAM 36 was from - the BECM SID I have only shows software revision up to P34 on the part number AMR5999 which the parts catalogue shows as being up to Vin VA349999, so I would imagine that the revision after that was P36.

Edit; looking at the parts list and pictures of the labels, PAM 36 was from BECM part number AMR6531, which according to parts catalogue shows it as being fitted from Vin VA364359, which I would guess is about half way through the '97MY
 
martyuk said:
I've had a couple (even as late as 2000 MY) of BECM's across my bench and house-calls I've still had to hook the Faultmate up to because they are in complete lockout and won't respond to the Nanocom trying to disarm them. I don't know exactly when PAM 36 was from - the BECM SID I have only shows software revision up to P34 on the part number AMR5999 which the parts catalogue shows as being up to Vin VA349999, so I would imagine that the revision after that was P36.

Edit; looking at the parts list and pictures of the labels, PAM 36 was from BECM part number AMR6531, which according to parts catalogue shows it as being fitted from Vin VA364359, which I would guess is about half way through the '97MY
Click to expand...

Nanocom info states that the BECM can be disarmed IF the EKA is accepted. This does not always happen however. But the EKA code can be loaded by Nanocom from PAM V36 onward rather than using the manual method as i understand it. If the BECM is in a fully alarmed state then you would indeed need MSV2 with its special software to unlock it. Then re programme.
 
Yes, that's correct.

The MSV-2 module which talks to the CPU directly is just a glorified (and expensive) EEPROM programmer. You can do the same thing with an EEPROM programmer that will talk to the motorola MCU chip that is used in the BECM, however the difference with the Faultmate is that you get the nice user interface with check boxes for all the settings, whereas an EEPROM programmer will just give you a full dump of what's stored in there - which is no used to anyone unless you know what memory addresses and the formats all of the information is stored in. I sat down over a couple of evenings a month or so ago and have worked out how all the relevant vehicle information, settings, and even the lockout status is stored as I was interested in how it did it.

The BECM alarm lockout is one HEX byte, and luckily if it's alarmed, then even if it shows up as garbled information on normal diagnostics - all the vehicle information is retained, and when the alarm lockout is reset you don't need to reprogram anything else. Just write the alarm lockout and EKA lockout statuses back to 'Normal', and refit to the vehicle. I usually ask owners for VIN, EKA, mileage info aswell to cross reference that against what's stored as occasionally I've seen the EKA corrupted.
 
martyuk said:
Yes, that's correct.

The MSV-2 module which talks to the CPU directly is just a glorified (and expensive) EEPROM programmer. You can do the same thing with an EEPROM programmer that will talk to the motorola MCU chip that is used in the BECM, however the difference with the Faultmate is that you get the nice user interface with check boxes for all the settings, whereas an EEPROM programmer will just give you a full dump of what's stored in there - which is no used to anyone unless you know what memory addresses and the formats all of the information is stored in. I sat down over a couple of evenings a month or so ago and have worked out how all the relevant vehicle information, settings, and even the lockout status is stored as I was interested in how it did it.

The BECM alarm lockout is one HEX byte, and luckily if it's alarmed, then even if it shows up as garbled information on normal diagnostics - all the vehicle information is retained, and when the alarm lockout is reset you don't need to reprogram anything else. Just write the alarm lockout and EKA lockout statuses back to 'Normal', and refit to the vehicle. I usually ask owners for VIN, EKA, mileage info aswell to cross reference that against what's stored as occasionally I've seen the EKA corrupted.
Click to expand...

If you have seen EKA corruption that is why the entry of the EKA with Nano will not disarm the BECM. As stated in Nano info. If it's corrupt it won't disarm, if it isn't it will. But only on V36 and up. I would imagine that most things can be sorted with Nanocom if the BECM is unlocked. Locked is a different ball game.
 
Decided I'm gonna go for the updated RF receiver option. Expensive I know at £240 - but when the car goes to Rangey heaven in the future (or I sell it) then I can put the old one back in and resell the updated one. I just like the idea of everything working as it should!
A question - when changing the receivers do I simply unplug the old one and plug in the new one? Should I disconnect the battery first?
 
kevwill said:
Decided I'm gonna go for the updated RF receiver option. Expensive I know at £240 - but when the car goes to Rangey heaven in the future (or I sell it) then I can put the old one back in and resell the updated one. I just like the idea of everything working as it should!
A question - when changing the receivers do I simply unplug the old one and plug in the new one? Should I disconnect the battery first?
Click to expand...

No just unplug old and plug in new.
 
kevwill said:
Decided I'm gonna go for the updated RF receiver option. Expensive I know at £240 - but when the car goes to Rangey heaven in the future (or I sell it) then I can put the old one back in and resell the updated one. I just like the idea of everything working as it should!
A question - when changing the receivers do I simply unplug the old one and plug in the new one? Should I disconnect the battery first?
Click to expand...

Did mine a few years ago and felt like I'd been arse-raped when I paid the £120 it was at the time. Now they're just being nasty.

I have to say it fixed all y lock and sync issues though and the lack of hassle was worth it. I have the old one in the shed still ...
 
Have fitted the 2 new front door locks and all working as it should. Great to have central locking again.
Haven't bought the new rf receiver yet (but will) as just had to buy 2 new front brake calipers - and jeez, the 'bleeding the system' process in rave is going to take a lot of concentration.
Marty - I've sent you a message through the start a converstions logo (what happened to the personal message link? - so I can send you the 2 old locks to play with.
 
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