P38A Engine Disabled

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I don't have "Engine Disabled" and neither of my fob's LED's light when inserted or turned to P1/P2.
But then, I did turn Passive Immobilisation "OFF" because it is nothing but a pain in the proverbial and I kept getting "press a key" message just like the OP.
If the thing annoys him I would just turn passive-immobilisation off. It has worked well for me.
Turning off Immobilisation and EKA certainly makes life a lot simpler. I run both mine like that so I can use the FOB or just the key with no problems.
 
Turning off Immobilisation and EKA certainly makes life a lot simpler. I run both mine like that so I can use the FOB or just the key with no problems.
Hi Keith, I have EKA still on (I think), but the passive immobilisation was driving me bonkers as it only took a few seconds from loading kids in the car-seat or stuff in the boot for the immobilisation to kick in.
Clearly, although my ignition-key slot illuminates green there is some issue with the coil/fob interaction not working.
 
Hi Keith, I have EKA still on (I think), but the passive immobilisation was driving me bonkers as it only took a few seconds from loading kids in the car-seat or stuff in the boot for the immobilisation to kick in.
Clearly, although my ignition-key slot illuminates green there is some issue with the coil/fob interaction not working.
If you have the means, turn off EKA as well, then you will never need to use the EKA code. The basic alarm remains active with the LED flashing on the dash.
 
tank , post your location up so someone with a nanocom could check the diagnostics for you ,for tea and biscuits + cake . have you got a syncmate or know someone who has one ??? it may just that both keys need re-syncing properly ?? you say its been doing this forever ?? was it like this when you bought it ???? seems a long long time to put up with this situation ???? as others suggest it can be set by nanocom to switch sync etc off but don't think its the ignition passive , but then im no expert !!!!!! very interesting indeed , cheers mozz
 
tank , post your location up so someone with a nanocom could check the diagnostics for you ,for tea and biscuits + cake . have you got a syncmate or know someone who has one ??? it may just that both keys need re-syncing properly ?? you say its been doing this forever ?? was it like this when you bought it ???? seems a long long time to put up with this situation ???? as others suggest it can be set by nanocom to switch sync etc off but don't think its the ignition passive , but then im no expert !!!!!! very interesting indeed , cheers mozz

It cannot be anything other than the passive immobilisation not working. Either the passive coil in the ignition switch or the coil in the fob.
 
How do I turn off passive immobilisation, I do have a couple of contacts I could try, presume I need a T4 and then somewhere in there (guess under security or BeCM) there is a facility to change the settings?

Aerial for the receiver is all connected and as Wammers says to have two fault fobs would be unlucky, although nothing would surprise me. I looked this morning and there is no green light when I insert the key into the ignition (somebody asked in an earlier post).

If synch was lost why would the fobs still open the car, sorry if thats a dumb question? The fobs operate, they lock and unlock the car perfectly, its only when I insert the key into the ignition and try and start the engine it says press remote engine disabled. I then press the remote the latches activate I turn the key a few times and she starts!
 
How do I turn off passive immobilisation, I do have a couple of contacts I could try, presume I need a T4 and then somewhere in there (guess under security or BeCM) there is a facility to change the settings?

Aerial for the receiver is all connected and as Wammers says to have two fault fobs would be unlucky, although nothing would surprise me. I looked this morning and there is no green light when I insert the key into the ignition (somebody asked in an earlier post).

If synch was lost why would the fobs still open the car, sorry if thats a dumb question? The fobs operate, they lock and unlock the car perfectly, its only when I insert the key into the ignition and try and start the engine it says press remote engine disabled. I then press the remote the latches activate I turn the key a few times and she starts!

Sync has not been lost. What happens when you put the key in, is the passive coil causes the fob to send a message to the BECM via the RF receiver. It sort of presses the button for you. If that is not working because either the passive coil or the coil in the fob are not working YOU have to press the fob to send the signal. That is why you get the press fob message. The key illumination has nothing to do with passive coil.
 
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How do I turn off passive immobilisation, I do have a couple of contacts I could try, presume I need a T4 and then somewhere in there (guess under security or BeCM) there is a facility to change the settings?

Aerial for the receiver is all connected and as Wammers says to have two fault fobs would be unlucky, although nothing would surprise me. I looked this morning and there is no green light when I insert the key into the ignition (somebody asked in an earlier post).

If synch was lost why would the fobs still open the car, sorry if thats a dumb question? The fobs operate, they lock and unlock the car perfectly, its only when I insert the key into the ignition and try and start the engine it says press remote engine disabled. I then press the remote the latches activate I turn the key a few times and she starts!
Try putting the key in the drivers door lock, if already locked, turn to unlock and press the unlock button, to be sure then turn to lock and press the lock button, then unlock with the FOB and see if it will start without the message.
Your best option is to get the immobiliser and EKA turned off in the BECM. You need someone with Nanocom or Faultmate.
 
Hi All, bit of feedback to close this one off, replaced the ignition switch and now all is well. Glad it was the switch and not the fob(s), would have been unlucky to have both fobs go down at the sametime and would have been a much more expensive repair as the fobs are pretty expensive.

Thanks again to all that helped and advised, greatly appreciated.
 
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