Engine change
- Thread starter hawke113a
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td4van
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What engine is it in your car?
There are differences depending on your original engine
There are differences depending on your original engine
Alibro
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Wots wrong with old the engine?
Quite a few folk have replaced K series with a newer or older model but it isn't simple.
Who is doing the swap?
The engines are a straight swap. There's a couple of sensors different and the ignition system is different.
The early engine has a distributor cap, but the later engine used a DIS system.
So you need to transfer the distributor and it's drive from the old engine. The rest is straightforward bolt on stuff.
Why are you changing the engine?
The early engine has a distributor cap, but the later engine used a DIS system.
So you need to transfer the distributor and it's drive from the old engine. The rest is straightforward bolt on stuff.
Why are you changing the engine?
Alibro
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Make sure factor in the cost of a replacement HG, timing belt, water pump and tensioner. It would be crazy to install an unknown K series without doing these.
GrumpyGel
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If the heads gone, what's the chances the liners are knackered or shifted?
Mind you, what's the chances that that "great condition, low mileage" replacement isn't actually a knackered heap that's been to the moon and back.
Almost none, unless it's been driving without coolant, even then the liners don't move very often.
I think it's better to stick with an engine you know, then replace it with one you don't.
Alibro
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I've been a computer engineer for nearly 30 years and for the last 10 or so we rarely repaired printers but just swapped them with supposedly 'good' ones.
Invariably all we did was swap one fault for another one. I'd much rather repair the fault I know than introduce another unknown one.
As Nodge says replacing an engine because the head has gone is bonkers.
What makes you think the head has gone? Have you had it tested?
Sorry mate but before you get any sensible answers from the lunatics in this asylum your gonna have to share a bit more background info.
Invariably all we did was swap one fault for another one. I'd much rather repair the fault I know than introduce another unknown one.
As Nodge says replacing an engine because the head has gone is bonkers.
What makes you think the head has gone? Have you had it tested?
Sorry mate but before you get any sensible answers from the lunatics in this asylum your gonna have to share a bit more background info.
Northern Irelander
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As above, better the devil you know!
best to fix the existing engine, you're only buying someone else's problems!!
the only way you can condemn a K-series for sure is taking the head off, measuring head tolerances (max warpage 0.05mm) liners flush or proud of the block, and if you're really keen, cylinder bores checked with internal micrometer!!
Not forgetting older engine uses MEMS 1.9 brain and the newer engine uses MEMS 3 (which can be re-mapped)
best to fix the existing engine, you're only buying someone else's problems!!
the only way you can condemn a K-series for sure is taking the head off, measuring head tolerances (max warpage 0.05mm) liners flush or proud of the block, and if you're really keen, cylinder bores checked with internal micrometer!!
Not forgetting older engine uses MEMS 1.9 brain and the newer engine uses MEMS 3 (which can be re-mapped)
Alibro
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If you have any doubts about the flatness of the head or height of the liners then use a Payne Elastomer BW750 Head Gasket and not an MLS one. They are more forgiving of imperfections and should still last another 30k or 40k miles
Take a look here. https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/pages/choosing-the-correct-k-series-head-gasket-kit
This is a good place to get good quality K series parts.
Northern Irelander
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Was it HGF with full fat mayonnaise (emulsified oil and water)? or low fat HGF (coolant is shot out on to the exhaust, no mixing of oil and water)
Chances are, if the temperature gauge didn't rise above halfway and no sudden loss of coolant, then the head tends to be spot on and liners still in position,
Max head skim is 0.2mm, or if history unknown with the engine, head not less than 118.75mm (Reference LR tech bulletin no. 0036) they say you lose the hardened face of the aluminium block, a head skim would be about £40 at a good engineering workshop.
But again, it may not need a head skim?
Check the head with a calibrated straight edge, feeler gauges and strong torch/light source
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Northern Irelander
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Just fitted one of these, branded as BGA purchased locally from Fyfes!
Mike Satur was supplying these as 'competition head gaskets' quite a few years ago, similar Lotus payen Mk 3 RLVB000320
I was possibly one of the first DIY'rs to fit the LR multi layer steel gasket (LVB500190) back in Jul 2006 (MLS released in March 2006) ........wouldn't fit another one tbh,
- The high cost
- oil weepage intra layers (original ladder rack and stretch bolts (within tolerance <97mm)
- loss of compression due to 0.1mm shim.
- delamination of the black polymer in all areas exposed to the coolant cavities
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@Northern Irelander at first it was just coolant out of exhaust with no mayo.. When I changed the gasket without skimming.. Same smoke but mayo this time within ten mins of doing it...not sure what went wrong.... Lost all coolant almost immediately
Did you turn the engine while the head was off? If so a liner seal will split, which needs re-sealing before the head is refitted.
Alibro
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Could even happen if the head was left off for a few days and the liners not bolted down.
