As a follow-up - today I replaced all the big end bearings and six of the main bearings (the seventh is not really accessible without taking the engine out). I will take it for a drive tomorrow to see if I notice any difference...
But what surprised me was that of the main bearings all lower shells looked like the one I posted here, but the top ones were much less used - is this normal or should I take this as an indication that something is wrong? "much less used" means that most of them show barely any copper, only the first one (front of the engine) looked nearly as bad as the bottom ones...
Thanks again for all your help!