Electronic ignition 3.5 v8

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lurch915

lurch915

Active Member
Posts
124
Location
Sherborne, Dorset
Here goes .... How do I know if I have "electronic" ignition ? I've heard that it's meant to help efficiency so I'm keen to get it if I haven't got it. But being as young as I am :D my knowledge of carbs and dizzy caps is pretty limited --- very limited , advise appreciated.
 
Easiest way is to pop the distributor cap off and see if you have a set of points in there. if you pull the cap off and see nothing that resembles points (maybe a plastic looking block) then you are already electronic. That is unless you can see a module with wires coming off of the side of the distributor, or wires going to a separate ignition module before you get the cap off. 1 wire you have points, two wires electronic.

I made the switch from points to electronic but I'm about to change back. I've had more random misfires with the electronic ignition. I personally feel a well maintained set of points are preferable. Can't say I've noticed any difference in efficiency or starting either.
 
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In that case seeing as it's running pretty sweet with no misfires I won't bother looking in pot it to far. Thanks for the reply. I don't suppose you have found a way of making it more efficient ? I'm not to worried but if there's something out there I rather find out now then 12 month down the line :)
 
You're looking from better mpg from the v8? What are you getting economy - wise? How many miles do you plan to do each year? My approach is to leave it alone and spend the money saved on fuel, but if you want to experiment don't do it to save money because it probably won't.
 
Yeah as timc said, I find trying to make an NA V8 more economical is a bit of a fruitless exercise. Just keep it well timed, keep the filters clean, give it loads of oil changes and enjoy it.
 
Locky1978 said:
Easiest way is to pop the distributor cap off and see if you have a set of points in there. if you pull the cap off and see nothing that resembles points (maybe a plastic looking block) then you are already electronic. That is unless you can see a module with wires coming off of the side of the distributor, or wires going to a separate ignition module before you get the cap off. 1 wire you have points, two wires electronic.

I made the switch from points to electronic but I'm about to change back. I've had more random misfires with the electronic ignition. I personally feel a well maintained set of points are preferable. Can't say I've noticed any difference in efficiency or starting either.
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What system did you use ?
 
Locky1978 said:
I bought a complete Accuspark distributor and coil, but I'm really not impressed with it to be honest.
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My advice would be to refit the original Lucas unit and fit Lumenition - the full Optronic kit,not the cheaper version.Its expensive,but totally reliable and way better than points will ever be.Genuine rotor arms,dist caps and leads are also a must too...
 
Yeah I must admit I had the optronic luminition kit on a triumph spitfire, and that was fine. I'm not impressed by these newer magnetic pick up kits though. Big difference in price between luminition and accuspark though.
 
I had the optronic on my landy, I bought it new and it lasted 3 months and the main box died. That was replace under guarantee and then it lasted until it was out of guarantee and it died again. This time it went in the bin and I've never bothered with luminition since.
 
Ian46 said:
I had the optronic on my landy, I bought it new and it lasted 3 months and the main box died. That was replace under guarantee and then it lasted until it was out of guarantee and it died again. This time it went in the bin and I've never bothered with luminition since.
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You had all the bad ones then,I've been fitting them and using them for 30 years and never had a problem.My brother is currently 1/2 way around Oz in a 67 SIIa 6cyl - on Lumenition.My other brother has a 1933 Austin 12/6 on it,runs like a sewing machine.

The only thing they don't like is low resistance coils - ie,1.5 ohm.That will wreck them,you need 3 ohms of primary resistance.
 
Thanks for the advise , I shall just give it a tune up and see how it goes , ,lineage wise I expect no more than 1000 a year. Only done 100 since I had it and it's was 30 miles away when I picked it up. Any one tried LPG ?!
 
You'll be fine on points at 1000 per annum. You can fix points in the field too if anything goes wrong. Just keep a set tucked away somewhere. Along with a diaphragm or two for your SU's if you're still on them. They can split and leave you with problem.
 
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lurch915 said:
Thanks for the advise , I shall just give it a tune up and see how it goes , ,lineage wise I expect no more than 1000 a year. Only done 100 since I had it and it's was 30 miles away when I picked it up. Any one tried LPG ?!
Click to expand...

I had LPG for 11 years. Keep it maintained and it can be a good substitute.
 
I have LPG on a V8 Range Rover. Can't tell the difference from petrol in terms of performance.

As you get less MPG with LPG, this somewhat offsets the saving of the lower price - I reckon it cuts about a third off my fuel costs. Frankly, I doubt it would be worth the cost and bother for 1000 a year.

Also, you've got to find somewhere for the tank. I have 2 underneath, but I wouldn't fancy that if I went properly off-road!
 
On the question of points v electronic, if you have points make sure you have the knowledge and kit to clean and adjust them, and carry a spare set of contacts and condenser.
 
A dwell meter is the only proper way to set up the points on a V8 Rover,and good luck in finding decent points and condensors - it was hard enough 30 years ago....
 
1,000 miles per year, at 16mpg that's 284 litres. Petrol is £1.30 per litre, I guess LPG is half that (from what I heard) so you would save £184 per year. It would take a lot of years for LPG to pay for itself, even if you manage to achieve the same mpg with petrol and lpg.

... nothing wrong with a low mpg if you don't do many miles.
 
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