Electrical Worries Return

Unbelievable the indicators, temp and fuel gauges have all once again stopped working!!! Obviously checked the fuse first and found it was blown, ok replaced it and again it blew and then again with a further replacement - Pretty obvious that it's shorting somewhere.

Can someone kindly explain what else share's this circuit, I'm sure somebody suggested that the interior light was on the same circuit. It would be great if someone could post a description of the wire colours for said circuit or a wiring diagram on my behalf!

Sadly the issue I have is that I am using my iPhone to try and search for the wiring diagram, unfortunately since updating the ISO there's a massive lag which makes searching this forum virtually impossible - it's taken nearly 20mins to write this....you hit the keys and spelt out 6 words before the first letter registers

It's really quite bizarre, since purchasing this landy the indicators would only ever work correctly if the Warnning light toggle switch was in the up position, likewise the warning lights have never worked. Furthermore the slot for the interior light switch is empty as the switch is missing.

It's a 1994 300TDI Defender.

Reading your post - it looks to me like there's something close to the hazard switch earthing. Pull the hazard switch out, without disconnecting the wires and try another fuse. If that cures it, then there's definitely a wire earthing behind the switch.
Someone may also have bodged the wiring behind it. If you can, take the switch out, disconnect the wires and try the fuse again. You'll have lost power to the indicators, but if the fuse doesn't blow, you have a least broken down the circuit a bit. You really need a meter. I'd meter each of the wires from the hazard swich, looking for an earth (i.e. low resistance to earth). There is a nice sharp metal edge behind the dash, perfect for cutting insulation (and skin)

Nope the fuse blows immediately once I switch the ignition on without the warning switch plug connected!

have a look at one of my recent posts http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/strange-ignition-issue-236235.html
It took me a while and it was all related to the Hazard light switch and the flasher unit. Suggest you check both of those, the main auxillary fuse which powers these and wiring in between

Thanks chaps for the advice chaps!

What I've checked so far....

All of the earths which I have sanded to ensure a solid clean connection. I've closely inspected where the loom enters and leaves the chassis and have found no issues.

What happens...
If I term the ignition on, immediately the fuse blows (Fuse No3 15amp). As I ran out of fuses and 15amp fuse wire I popped in a 30amp fuse, everything appeared to work without issue...or so I thought!!! What had actually happened was that at the back where the wires come through the tub, 3 of the wires began to smoke and melt the their plastic white connector. The three wire affected were Red/Green, Green and Brown/Green. Cleaned wires up, replaced connector and changed the fuse back. Guess what.?! Yup back to square one, no indicators, no temp and fuel gauge working!!!

What should I do next.?!

If anyone could direct me to a wire diagram for a 1994 defender 309TDI that would be great

Can anyone help......Please!!!!

PDFs on landroverweb.com

Thanks Will but there's no wire diagram for a 1994 300TDI, likewise the Haynes manual is all wrong!

Trace each wire connected to the circuit and measure the resistance between them and earth. If the resistance is anything other than infinite then you have found a short.

Then check each of the wires for continuity. If you have no continuity, you have found a break.

That's all. I can think of without knowing the circuits. It sounds like you may have had a short which has now become a break.

Your lucky that your landy did not become a BBQ. The fuses are to protect the wires, so you need to use the correct sizes or they will literally melt.

Any burnt wires need to be cut back to copper and joined with crimp connectors or soldered. I prefer solder and heatshrink.

You can temporarily bypass any suspect cables with jump leads for testing.

Haha.... im back on a normal computer now

Thanks Sp00ks!!!! Yup...it was a stupid idea to have temporally replace the fuse for a higher amp, I thought it would've been ok to briefly to test (Not driving ). I think I would like to get a circuit breaker for future use!!

Anyhow's its fixed, although it's been ridiculously difficult trying to sort this whilst on crutches but I've managed. It would appear that i'm slowly rewiring the entire Landy, actually thats not a bad idea!! In the end it turned out to be the green wire that goes in to the back of the rear wiper motor. It would appear that the poorly fitted connector from the previous owner was the culprit. Cut everything back and replaced with solid clean connections.

Now I await the next electrical issue