sierrafery
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See RAVE- Electrical library - Connector views and check the following earth points in this order C0551, C0017, C0018
Disco 2 Electrical issues
- Thread starter CM0n
- Start date
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Nig43
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I have to disagree with Sierra Ferry. I have had a very similar problem with the ancillary electrics and a new RF receiver solved it.
sierrafery
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We can agree that we disagree but if you'll study deep the system you'll realise that what you say is illogical and has no technical explanation, you might have done something coincidentally then, even if you touched other connector or fuse that was the cure not the receiver... @brian47 has well explained in post #16 that the receiver can work or not.... PERIOD
Shimsteriom
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ROY SIMPSON
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If it is the bcu at fault, it doesn't log it internal faults so diagnostic tools cannot tell you it is at fault.
It is only when you have tested everything else, or you start to get other random faults related to bcu controlled systems eg hazard warning lights turning on for no apparent reason or failures in the security system that you may conclude that the bcu is faulty.
In my case all intermittent faults, it started with failure of an internal switch supplying power to xyz switch, then hazard lights turning on randomly and finally problems with the security system.
Replaced bcu with new one programmed and synced to system with nanocom with help from Rick at Callrova and all problems solved.
It is only when you have tested everything else, or you start to get other random faults related to bcu controlled systems eg hazard warning lights turning on for no apparent reason or failures in the security system that you may conclude that the bcu is faulty.
In my case all intermittent faults, it started with failure of an internal switch supplying power to xyz switch, then hazard lights turning on randomly and finally problems with the security system.
Replaced bcu with new one programmed and synced to system with nanocom with help from Rick at Callrova and all problems solved.
Small update;
I removed the roof lining to get a look at the reciever and it doesn't seem to show any signs of water ingress but I've ordered a replacement just incase as they aren't too expensive. I checked all of the earthing points @sierrafery mentioned "C0551, C0017, C0018" they all appear fine no sign of water ingress or signs of wear.
The issue has changed slightly the indicators now work but the other items such as interlocking doors, intermittent wiper mode and rear wipers don't work BUT I can hear a click when they attempt to run sounds like a relay click.
Some experience though if I turn the wipers on full mode then the locks and rear wiper work as expected.
I guess the only thing outstanding is the BCU?
I removed the roof lining to get a look at the reciever and it doesn't seem to show any signs of water ingress but I've ordered a replacement just incase as they aren't too expensive. I checked all of the earthing points @sierrafery mentioned "C0551, C0017, C0018" they all appear fine no sign of water ingress or signs of wear.
The issue has changed slightly the indicators now work but the other items such as interlocking doors, intermittent wiper mode and rear wipers don't work BUT I can hear a click when they attempt to run sounds like a relay click.
Some experience though if I turn the wipers on full mode then the locks and rear wiper work as expected.
I guess the only thing outstanding is the BCU?
sierrafery
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At this poit better rule out the interior fusebox first cos it doesnt need programming just disconnect the battery before the swap then after reconnectio turn ignitio on II and let it so 5 minutes
I know I've been inactive on this post unfortunately things came up over the summer but I thought I'd give an update as it might help people in the future.
I've now changed the interior fuse box twice..
New Tayna battery.
I've also recently sent off my BCU to be checked by CallRova.com who are unable to find anything a miss.
I've checked all of the interior earthing points and they appear to be ok? No sign of corrosion or rust.
Swapped out the engine fuse box just to rule it out.
At this point I'm at a slight loss but If I manage to get the issue solved I'll be sure to leave an update. If anyone has any suggestions I'm all ears!
I've now changed the interior fuse box twice..
New Tayna battery.
I've also recently sent off my BCU to be checked by CallRova.com who are unable to find anything a miss.
I've checked all of the interior earthing points and they appear to be ok? No sign of corrosion or rust.
Swapped out the engine fuse box just to rule it out.
At this point I'm at a slight loss but If I manage to get the issue solved I'll be sure to leave an update. If anyone has any suggestions I'm all ears!
sierrafery
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Unfortunatey if all those things are ruled out it might be a bad contact on the serial data link between the BCU and IDM and that's through pins 18-19-20(grey/pink wires) of header C0292 which is wrapped into that harness above the pedals, see the connector views
chticarail
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Hello CM0n, have you find a solution ? I have the same symptoms...
sierrafery
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And did you rule out the IDM and BCU both without success like the OP?... if not do those first as it was already explained in this thread
chticarail
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Hello Sierrafery, thank you for your reply. I replaced the IDM, but the problem still persists. I ordered a BCU, which will arrive in two weeks, but in the meantime, I want to explore other avenues. Since I touched and cleaned the IDM and BCU, the turn signals and central locking have been working intermittently, as if there were a loose connection. That's why this thread interests me.
Especially since my battery is draining, with a current leak of 300 mA even after waiting 15 minutes. When I remove fuse F11 under the hood, the current drops back to a healthy level, 50 mA.
So I have a few questions:
- Could the immobilizer be causing the current leak?
- Or is this current leak causing all these faults?
- Or are these two separate problems?
Especially since my battery is draining, with a current leak of 300 mA even after waiting 15 minutes. When I remove fuse F11 under the hood, the current drops back to a healthy level, 50 mA.
So I have a few questions:
- Could the immobilizer be causing the current leak?
- Or is this current leak causing all these faults?
- Or are these two separate problems?
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