Electrical Issue! Oh My God

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Huddy44

Active Member
Posts
108
Location
Sherburn In Elmet, Leeds
hi all,

Haven't posted anything in donkeys as have been busy with life! But I really need some help and advice at the moment with an electrical issue.

2002 D2 TD5 auto

So.....

I have an intermittent battery drain issue. When I say intermittent I mean, could be a couple of days, or could be a couple of months, you go to the vehicle and it's dead as a door nail....

In order, replaced battery as the one that was on when I bought the car was a Halfrauds special "wonweeklong" so put on a Yuasa.

Perfect for 2/3 months.

Started playing up again, had the battery checked, 70% health, so replaced under warranty....

Perfect for a week...

Messed about for a couple of months with various flat battery issues, tried ammeter in line, no major drains, did the fuses in/out, removed aftermarket radio, disconnected parrot hands free, removed fuse 11, left the vehicle unlocked for several days (all at separate times), checked all of the interior and glove box lights, the battery went flat even after all of the above individually.

By this point really fed up so I replaced the alternator in case this was back draining.

No different.

Had a really competent friend who is a mechanic by trade look at it, he had it a week and it didn't fault once......

Got it back, 2 days later.....didn't start.

Got another battery as the 2nd 6 month old Yuasa tested as bad.....

Been perfect for 6 weeks, went to it this morning, flat as a fart.....

I'm running out of patience and time messing about with this rediculous unpredicatble battery drain issue....

What would you do next!?!

I'm thinking starter motor, but I absolutely hate just throwing bits at Landys without a proper diagnosis......
 
And was it properly converted, i mean all the "hardware" removed and the ECU programmed for coils? can you remember how many mAmps was the drain when you measured?...and what AH/CCA yuasa battery you have?
 
I wouldn't know about the ECU been reprogrammed. The compressor and all the other business is still there, i don't get warning lights or the SLS light never ever come on.

I will measure the drain again..

I will check Ah and CCA when I get back home.

What's your thinking I am intrigued.....
 
With this last info i suspect that the drain is caused by the unproperly disabled SLS system as that can be intermittent according to the vehicle's position cos the system tends to relevel even when the ignition is off but as it's on springs nothing happens with the body and the system keeps giving inputs, if you dont have access to tester unplug the height sensors and everything in the compressor housing and remove relay R5 but as long as it's not confirmed that the vehicle is set for coils in the SLABS and BCU there might still be a parasitic drain.....also what ever battery you put on it it should not be below 110AH whatsoever
 
Well........

so i laid under the landy to unplug the ride hieght sensors......and the drivers side rear bottom hole was broken and flopping about, as soon as I touched i could hear the pump chattering away.....

Disconnected everything including the compressor/pump.

So.....the next issue is that the speedo has been working intermittently and seems to play up after I've been towing, then mysteriously it will just start working again!

There is no transducer in the tranny box so I understand that these run off the abs and through the SLABS, as does the SLS.

Before I unplugged everything the speedo was flickering when driving, now it's on the stops....

Will this be related to the SLS?

I'm just thinking with damaged ride hiegth sensor and the issues I have after towing, and the fact it flickers, is this rattling in and out of the calibrated point whilst driving?
 
sierrafery said:
With this last info i suspect that the drain is caused by the unproperly disabled SLS system as that can be intermittent according to the vehicle's position cos the system tends to relevel even when the ignition is off but as it's on springs nothing happens with the body and the system keeps giving inputs, if you dont have access to tester unplug the height sensors and everything in the compressor housing and remove relay R5 but as long as it's not confirmed that the vehicle is set for coils in the SLABS and BCU there might still be a parasitic drain.....also what ever battery you put on it it should not be below 110AH whatsoever
Click to expand...

Good info! I'm guessing this applies to the P38 as well? Im still on bags but I have seen a few conversions. Nice to have this in the knowledge bank for future ref. Im yet to see if my new 110AH 950cca is gonna drain so this is really helpful.
 
the more and more I think about this the more it makes sense and I cannot actually believe that I haven't done or thought of this before......everything I left the disco parked up with the trailer on it would go flat overnight.......

What a bleedin plonker I feel like now! Just goes to show some times u cannot see what is right infront of you!!!
 
Huddy44 said:
the more and more I think about this the more it makes sense and I cannot actually believe that I haven't done or thought of this before......everything I left the disco parked up with the trailer on it would go flat overnight.......

What a bleedin plonker I feel like now! Just goes to show some times u cannot see what is right infront of you!!!
Click to expand...

LMAO! I laugh because it is funny as hell! xD Seriously, glad you sorted it. sounds like something I would have done!
 
The speedo has nothing to do with the SLS, it's a coincidental fault and can be due to some issue on the VSS(vehicle speed signal) path delivered by the SLABS ECU untill the instrment pack or with the instrument itself...to properly diagnose this a tester is needed or at least check the VSS circuit's continuity
 
I even said to my Mrs the other week......

" it only does this when it's either a) been parked nose first to something so it's a pain in the a**e to jump off
B) when I've got the trailer on and I need the bloody thing

Or

C) after it's been round the farm, almost nailed on it would drain in 3/4 days

Mmmmmmm, apart from the nose first thing the trailer and a good bouncing round the farm we/are all going to alter the ride hieght sensors....

I've wondered for months what that buzzing on a night outside was.....(joke btw)
 
Sorry to keep this going, but the speedo thing....

I have tested the that the speedo in the dash binnacle works using Delphi diagnostic functional tests.

So does the the slabs pick up off the abs sensors from the bearing exciter?

Then presumably the slabs to the clock?

Was thinking, in order....

1. Checks sensor plugs/wiring
2. Test wheel speed sensors either live data or good old multi meter
3. Check wheel bearings?
4. Remove SLABS and check for water
5. Check wiring from slabs to dash
6. Set fire to it......

Any other suggestions??
 
first moves should be your points nr.4 and 5 ... 1, 2, 3, are useless for the speedo issue as long as no 3 amigos on(provided they work on self test)
 
Huddy44 said:
the more and more I think about this the more it makes sense and I cannot actually believe that I haven't done or thought of this before......everything I left the disco parked up with the trailer on it would go flat overnight.......

What a bleedin plonker I feel like now! Just goes to show some times u cannot see what is right infront of you!!!
Click to expand...
My neighbour has an old Tojo Landcruiser, had a battery drain problem, after exhausting all avenues with mechanics and auto elecos, I fitted a battery isolator switch, not the "kosher" solution but she is no longer having to have it jump started or replacing batteries every 6 months. As she spends a lot of time away not using the Tojo it means after standing sometimes 6 months it starts immediately. But of course its a lot lower tech vehicle than a D2.
 
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