Electric heater

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cowasaki

cowasaki

Well-Known Member
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1,517
Location
North West England
Has anyone used one of these or similar?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12v-600w-...715261?hash=item2eee9c48bd:g:Yx4AAOSw3YNXYam3

600w is pretty decent, not in the range of an Eberspacher but should clear a Defender 90 and be much easier to put in, cheaper to run and cheaper to buy. I already have a second battery system which would mean that the heater couldn't flatten the starter battery.

There is a 300w version http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12v-300w-...r-Defroster-/201349448417?hash=item2ee15cc2e1

The alternative is a Russian Eberspacher copy at £330+£60 postage.
 
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I read elsewhere of folk putting a PTC heater element into the heater box in order to provide 'instant' heat on startup, those drew in the region of 90A so would provide a good chunk of warmth. Not sure what 600W would do, but would be interested to hear how you get on - although I can't see the need for it unless lots of your journeys are less than 4 miles long.
 
I have the 300 w one which I have had for a couple of years. It does help heat a 110 but you couldn't rely on it alone. I was looking at the Russian diesel heater. They seem to be going up in price each time I look at them. I think I would go for the Russian one if funds were not a problem. I'm told if importing the Russian one to the UK you do not get caught for import tax. A friend of mine has the Russian diesel heater in his boat and he thinks they are great.
I would be concerned about the amount of power being drawn with the 600 w electric one When I run my 300 w one it does dim the lights when on tick over or low revs, and its not the alternator. that was new and tested.
 
Thanks all. I have dual batteries so that should be ok. My journey to work is 4 miles and often at 1,3 or 6 o'clock so it would be helpful. The Russian one is tempting but it's not cheap. Maybe if we all club together to reduce postage but then we are more likely to be hammered for import duty.
 
cowasaki said:
Thanks all. I have dual batteries so that should be ok. My journey to work is 4 miles and often at 1,3 or 6 o'clock so it would be helpful. The Russian one is tempting but it's not cheap. Maybe if we all club together to reduce postage but then we are more likely to be hammered for import duty.
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That sounds like a possible recipe for disaster, dual batteries are one thing but what do you have for an alternator?

You start the engine and it uses battery power to do this, you then rely on the alternator to replenish them, if you then hit the system with 600W (P = I x V so 600/14.2 = 42.25A) then you alternator needs to be comfortable to output around 60A continuous just to recharge the battery and to run this heater. Then add maybe 11A if you have your dipped/sides on. Alternators rated at even 100A will not actually give you a continuous 100A, you could expect maybe comfortably 80A and even then it will be wanting engine revs of around 2250rpm top achieve that. So just take care to think of this, also consider your alternator charge wire, depending what engine you have your wiring might only have been rated for a 60A alternator. I would want a good going 120A alt for this sort of load.
 
discomania said:
That sounds like a possible recipe for disaster, dual batteries are one thing but what do you have for an alternator?

You start the engine and it uses battery power to do this, you then rely on the alternator to replenish them, if you then hit the system with 600W (P = I x V so 600/14.2 = 42.25A) then you alternator needs to be comfortable to output around 60A continuous just to recharge the battery and to run this heater. Then add maybe 11A if you have your dipped/sides on. Alternators rated at even 100A will not actually give you a continuous 100A, you could expect maybe comfortably 80A and even then it will be wanting engine revs of around 2250rpm top achieve that. So just take care to think of this, also consider your alternator charge wire, depending what engine you have your wiring might only have been rated for a 60A alternator. I would want a good going 120A alt for this sort of load.
Click to expand...


I have a 130amp alternator new in a box ready to fit but I haven't got round to it because the 100amp I have now works fine. I bought one of those dual alternator brackets so I could run one alternator to each battery :)
 
cowasaki said:
I have a 130amp alternator new in a box ready to fit but I haven't got round to it because the 100amp I have now works fine. I bought one of those dual alternator brackets so I could run one alternator to each battery :)
Click to expand...
As long as you have thought about it! Amazing how many people load up electrical systems assuming they will just cope.
 
Mines toasty too.
The important thing is getting the flaps in the heater box working as they should and secondly, making sure all the air from the blower is going through the matrix and not leaking past the flaps or out of the box because of worn foam seals.
I redid all of that on mine 14 yrs ago during the restoration and it's still good now.
It will start to burn my leg after a while.
Takes longer than a modern car of course but does get there.
More wind would be nice but I get by fine.
 
I should of said also- you really need to remove the box and get it on the bench. Work the levers and you'll suss out what does what and where the seals go.
Camping mat makes excellent seals and won't disintegrate like the crap LR used.
You then need to adjust the cables so they move the flaps to fully closed and open positions reliably.
The sides and pipe outlets of the matrix need sealing too, gotta keep the air going through it not round it!
 
I did as above, but ive also fitted a bilge blower into the inlet of the original heater and run the two in series and it's miles better.
I've used silver foil tape to seal up gaps and any ones anywhere else got a helping hand with expanding foam.
Mine is great now
 
mikescuba said:
What did you do to it? I've tried everything. Several different thermostats, new heater matrix, new Rad, rad muff, removed fan. tried electric fan, went back to the visco's fan. resealed the doors.. Bought a new warm coat. 300 w ceramic electric heater..
Click to expand...

Hi Mike,

I replaced all the foam in the heater box etc. but what made the difference was the thermostat. Now, it does need a 4 mile run at 60mph to warm up and if I'm just doing 30-40mph local it does not really get very warm. But at 60mph when it gets up to temperature its warm now, relatively speaking.

It's nowhere near as warm as our other cars but its fine and usable.
 
My heater works fine once up to temperature. I have a new matrix and the casing of the heater box is airtight but was thinking of something to warm it up prior to starting. Still un decided at the moment but might be getting an eberspatcher via a mate.
 
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