EKA input routine.

Sideline said:

Thank you Rasheed. I'll check battery voltage so before I try it this evening after work.
I have the new RF receiver connected although I have reconnected the old one as well to try and see if that would make a difference.
I doubt if there is much wear in the door lock mechanism as I always use the fob.

Click to expand...

No worries mate. Hate to say this but if you're dropping to 11V you probably do have a bad battery or else the alternator isn't charging properly (assuming the RF is out and therefore not draining power). Something you need to get to the bottom of before anything else.

I charged the battery yesterday. It read 12.6 volts. I started to input the code and got distracted by my dog. Opened the door to cancel the input and said I'll try and see what would happen if I try to start it. She started.
So I can't really say what the problem is yet.

As I mentioned in my previous post I was getting engine disabled displayed now and again the last few weeks. My workaround was to leave the Range Rover and come back to it later and it would start. So I am not sure if it was a case of this or my battery wasnt powerful enough.

So now I have the new RF receiver fitted and the fob is working ok. I'll see how it goes and update this thread with hopefully good news in a weeks time.

Any news on yours Steve?

Still the same- charged the battery but still engine disabled when entering the code. Funny thing is when I lock the door using he key the alarm led on the centre of the dash comes on and settles down to its regular flashing as it always has and will turn off when I unlock the car with the key.
So it seems the alarm is arming/unarming using the key-both remote fobs still reuse to work.
I will try and contact a local bloke who works for Landrover to have aloof.

I far preferred the old days when you unlock and start a ford with anything.

Steve

stevebrookman said:

Still the same- charged the battery but still engine disabled when entering the code. Funny thing is when I lock the door using he key the alarm led on the centre of the dash comes on and settles down to its regular flashing as it always has and will turn off when I unlock the car with the key.
So it seems the alarm is arming/unarming using the key-both remote fobs still reuse to work.
I will try and contact a local bloke who works for Landrover to have aloof.

I far preferred the old days when you unlock and start a ford with anything.

Steve

Click to expand...

Keys need syncing to lock. Try turning key to lock and pressing lock button for a while then turning to unlock and pressing unlock button for a while then turning key straight up. Or putting key in ignition turn to accessories then press buttons. See what you get.

Thanks Wammers,
Tried all of that but no difference-will have to get someone here with a computer.

Cheers

Steve

stevebrookman said:

Thanks Wammers,
Tried all of that but no difference-will have to get someone here with a computer.

Cheers

Steve

Click to expand...

Have you tried berating them in a threatening manner? Won't make them work but you feel better.

I'm usually on a short fuse with things mechanical but not this time-must be mellowing with old age-only problem is I cannot contact the bloke who works for a local independant.
Anyone got a faultmate etc near Blackwood/Newport South wales?

Steve

12.6V after a full charge sounds a tad low to me. Ideally you'd be up near 13V. I may be wrong though.

J

Grrrrrr said:

12.6V after a full charge sounds a tad low to me. Ideally you'd be up near 13V. I may be wrong though.

J

Click to expand...

Should be 12.8 volts after settling time when it comes off charge. However if using a Lidl smart charger 12.6v is about the best you will see, battery will be about half charged.

According to my battery condition chart. That came with my shunt tester.
12 Volt lead acid battery open circuit voltage.
11.7 volts 0%
12.0 volts 25%
12.2 volts 50%
12.4 volts 75%
12.6 volts 100%

wammers said:

According to my battery condition chart. That came with my shunt tester.
12 Volt lead acid battery open circuit voltage.
11.7 volts 0%
12.0 volts 25%
12.2 volts 50%
12.4 volts 75%
12.6 volts 100%

Click to expand...

How old is your chart Tony? Look up Lead Calcium batteries

Datatek said:

How old is your chart Tony? Look up Lead Calcium batteries

Click to expand...

That's why i said Lead acid. Do the lead calcium not need a higher charging rate for chemical excitation than most P38s unless you change the controller, are capable of producing. There is always going to be a shortfall.

Update.
The very, very helpful Mozz spent an hour on the phone with me yesterday. he got it started again-but we couldn't get the keys to sync. Remotes wouldn't,t work and message engine disabled came up again. the strange thing is using the key the doors will unlock but not the boot-when it was running for a while yesterday the boot could be initially opened but later on would not open again.
This morning I received a second hand RF receiver ( still waiting for the proper £200 one)
I put it on and now the unlock button on both the fobs work and starts the car. The lock button will not work and the boot will not open at the moment. The other thing I've noticed is the interior lights-only the rear left passenger one is coming on.
So progress being made-without Mozz I would be totally lost.
Will see what happens later.

Steve

Fair play to Mozz. I can't really help on any of that Steve only as above to check your battery voltage. Hopefully the new receiver will make a change for the better.

Well a week later and everything going to plan. No need for jump leads and frost on the windscreen two morning as well. Key fob opening and closing through new RF receiver no problem.

Fingers crossed I have a reliable starting Rangie. Thank you everyone for their help.