EKA input routine.

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S

Sideline

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36
My P38 has been giving me grief the last few weeks with an engine disabled showing on the dash. I have been disconnecting and reconnecting the RF receiver to sus out my battery drain so I wasn't really concerned about this and it used to start eventually any way.

Last wednesday though I couldn't clear the engine disabled so satisfied that my battery drain had disappeared since diconnecing the receiver I decided I would purchase a new receiver.
I plugged it in Monday still no joy. A thread hijack by me here yesterday and I got advice to input the EKA code. Thanks lads. I did this last night and after a bit of foostering she started up. So I unload my gear from the Polo I'm using into the P38 for the morning.
As you can guess out this morning and I get 'engine disabled ' again. I fiddled about again trying to put in code but it didn't seem to take in the code.

I know it's four turns to the left to start, but are the locks to be in the open position or closed before the four turns left?
I have entered the code before. Could I have a door lock problem?
I can't find a thread here on it although I'm sure it's mentioned somewhere.
 
Sideline said:
On there? I should have that as Datatek sent it on to me on disc a few months ago. I'll check this evening.
Click to expand...

When you enter the specific area for whatever model of vehicle you have, it should look something like this
 

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what year p38?
i dont think early models need the 4 turns to the left before inputting the eka only 99my on i think need it
 
She is a 01 clarkie so needs the four turns to the left. I tried cracking the code this morning for half an hour, no joy. I'll have another go this evening. I have reset it twice before so the code is correct.
Everytime I turn the key the hazards flash. And then on the third digit they stop flashing. I did notice a light coming on on the dash everytime i turned the key the evening I did get it to start but I haven't seen that happening since.
 
I spent a good while at this last night.I input the code about 15 times then it worked.
Hazards stopped repeating as I was putting in the code and I could see the light coming up on the dash acknowledging each turn.
Great I said to myself. Hopped in turned the key in expectation and the battery was flat , just giving a few clicks.
No problem I thought at least she is decoded. I put on the good battery I had on the charger from the e34 tds and hooked her up with the leads. I tried the ignition again and engine disabled came up again. I was getting 12.2 volts at the battery.
I tried a few more times with the code, no joy. I removed the leads and left the battery on charge until this morning. I had tried it three times this morning before work and no luck.
I'm patient enough but this is testing me.

Can I put a meter on some where to see is the door lock sending out a signal to the BECM? I feel like I'm playing the lottery here.

Are the hazards lights supposed to be coming on as you input the code because the few times I crack the code the hazards seem not to flash?
When I put in the code and the BECM accepts it why would it lose it's acknowledgement and revert back to engine disabled again?
 
Sideline said:
I spent a good while at this last night.I input the code about 15 times then it worked.
Hazards stopped repeating as I was putting in the code and I could see the light coming up on the dash acknowledging each turn.
Great I said to myself. Hopped in turned the key in expectation and the battery was flat , just giving a few clicks.
No problem I thought at least she is decoded. I put on the good battery I had on the charger from the e34 tds and hooked her up with the leads. I tried the ignition again and engine disabled came up again. I was getting 12.2 volts at the battery.
I tried a few more times with the code, no joy. I removed the leads and left the battery on charge until this morning. I had tried it three times this morning before work and no luck.
I'm patient enough but this is testing me.

Can I put a meter on some where to see is the door lock sending out a signal to the BECM? I feel like I'm playing the lottery here.

Are the hazards lights supposed to be coming on as you input the code because the few times I crack the code the hazards seem not to flash?
When I put in the code and the BECM accepts it why would it lose it's acknowledgement and revert back to engine disabled again?
Click to expand...
Duff RF receivers can play havoc.
 
Hello all,
I'm still having the same problem -even after excellent advice and help from Mozz- as above-would a duff RF receiver interfere with inputting the EKA code?

Regards

Steve
 
stevebrookman said:
Hello all,
I'm still having the same problem -even after excellent advice and help from Mozz- as above-would a duff RF receiver interfere with inputting the EKA code?

Regards

Steve
Click to expand...

I have no definitive proof, but if a the RF receiver has failed in the mode that burns locks out, it is constantly sending data to the BECM which may cause it to get it's knickers in a twist.
 
Thanks Keith.
Hopefully I'll get a bloke I know who works for a Landrover Inde to have a look in the week. Only time in 6 years it's failed to go!

Steve
 
clarkie said:
what year p38?
i dont think early models need the 4 turns to the left before inputting the eka only 99my on i think need it
Click to expand...


97 needs it, ask me how i know.

You can disconnect the RF receiver, all you lose is remote locking. You can still lock and unlock with the key while you wait for a replacement. When you've input the EKA code correctly all 4 doors unlock and the interior courtesy lights come on. I've never been able to make sense of the flashing hazards sometimes they flash twice, sometimes once for each turn, sometimes not at all so I ignore them. If only the driver's door unlocks or the courtesy lights don't come on the code hasn't been taken. After a set number of tries the car will go into lockdown for half an hour and refuse any inputs. Try again within that time and its another half an hour. As the barrel of the door lock wears its important to enter the code slowly, making sure to centre the key between each turn and pausing slightly between each digit. Ultimately even that won't work when the mechanism on microswitch in the door lock itself gets worn. Of course none of this is relevant till you change your battery. 12.2V is too low.
 
Last edited:
Thank you Rasheed. I'll check battery voltage so before I try it this evening after work.
I have the new RF receiver connected although I have reconnected the old one as well to try and see if that would make a difference.
I doubt if there is much wear in the door lock mechanism as I always use the fob.
 
Sideline said:
Thank you Rasheed. I'll check battery voltage so before I try it this evening after work.
I have the new RF receiver connected although I have reconnected the old one as well to try and see if that would make a difference.
I doubt if there is much wear in the door lock mechanism as I always use the fob.
Click to expand...
Using the FOB does not stop the lock mechanism and the micro switches wearing:)
 
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