Can anyone talk me through the process of resetting the EKA code with Nanocom ? Mine has stupid long numbers and I want it reset to something easy. Also how do I know the reset has worked ? Do I need to actually go through the process, or will the Nanocom confirm it has been changed ? Cheers
Disco 2 EKA Code Reset
- Thread starter meego
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sierrafery
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I did it long time ago but IIRC you have to go into the EKA section in BCU Utility, insert your numbers then "set" - go back one step with the red X then "read" to make sure it was saved and if itwas exit all the way with X turn ignition off and wait 60 seconds before you unplug nanocom then turn ignition on and check if all the warnimg lights are working OK cos nanocom used to alter instrument settings without request from time to time
It is. I’m still locking it with the key in the door. It has immobilised itself a couple of times and I have had to use the EKA code. All high numbers which is a PIA.
Great SF, thanks. I think that’s it done.
Would it not be easier to fix the issue? Or while its working can you turn the need for the EKA off as in the RR (that others seem to think is good idea).
J
I think I can turn it off, but I’m worried if it immobilises itself again, I can’t get in without the EKA !!!
I plan to remove the BCU and cabin fuse box this week and clean all the terminals etc soon. I have tried a brand new RF Receiver for the locking, but no joy, so the issue lies elsewhere…..I think
@sierrafery…..while resetting the EKA code something strange occurred. It reset it, but when re-reading the code to check it had set, I noticed with the ignition on, all the dash lights were off and the fuel gauge was at empty !! I tried starting it up and it turned over, but didn’t start. Turned all off and unplugged the Nano and it started no problem ?? Seems fine now.
Which is why I said fixing the issue would maybe best. But I dont know the disco setup.
J
sierrafery
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That's normal while nanocom is in connection with the BCU or other ECUs but anyway never crank it while nanocom is connected no matter to which ECU, if you want live data start the engine before you go with nanocom into menus or you can mix up some things bad. You was lucky this time that you didnt immobilise it for good
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I removed disconnected the BCU today and checked the connections and they are spotless. I also removed the cabin fusebox and checked that out. Again, spotless. I renewed a couple of blown fuses F8 and F21. I locked the doors with the key, and tried to open again using the key remote. When I opened the door the alarm went off and it was immobilised. Time to try the new EKA code I reset the other day, and it worked. On checking the fuses again, fuse F21 has blown again. This is listed as Transfer Box & Alarm Sounder. So it’s obviously the alarm going off that’s blowing the fuse, but how this is linked to my immobilising issues I don’t knowI think I can turn it off, but I’m worried if it immobilises itself again, I can’t get in without the EKA !!!
I plan to remove the BCU and cabin fuse box this week and clean all the terminals etc soon. I have tried a brand new RF Receiver for the locking, but no joy, so the issue lies elsewhere…..I think
sierrafery
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1. did you disconnect the battery first?
2. if you did then after reconnection did you turn the ignition on 2 and wait 5 minutes? if you didnt do that it's normal to be immobilised cos once the BCU or IDM were disconnected after reconnection they need 5 minutes to regain digital data comms to remobilise, it's a low speed data bus between them though if F21 blew that's another reason
these kind of actions are compulsory and covered in the WSM, it's not wise to play with the BCU or IDM without knowing what you are doing
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sierrafery
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Then it's inexactly listed cos F21 is linked to the BBUS too and microrelays in the IDM
The fuse can blow only if the alarm sounder is faulty so make sure you have the misslock warning enabled, let a door open and lock with the fob, if you hear the sounder(misslock warning) then it's not that but if the fuse blows on this action the sounder is S/C so replace it or disable it with nanocom and let only the horns active for alarm sound also disable the BBUS cos this one used to make trouble and blow that fuse while it's quite useless
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The fob isn’t working though. I can only lock the vehicle with the key in the door lock !! I tried a new RF receiver and it still didn’t work. Is it still worth doing as above (& below)
Misslock Warning Disable
BBUS Disable (what is BBUS ??)
sierrafery
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You didnt mention previously that the fob doesnt work.... is the "alarm disarm" set to "always with key" ? cos if not and the fob doesnt work it's normal to be immobilised when you unlock withthe key? You should take some time and read the alarm system's description and operation mode in the wsm if you want to do things yourself in this area otherwise it will be very hard
BBUS = Battery backed up sounder.... and i said to make sure that the misslock warning is enabled to check the sounder as you must get an audible misslock warning sound if you lock with fob with a door open but if the fob doesnt work this whole discussion is futile
maybe the simplest way for you would be to set the alarm to "not fitted" then the immobiliser is disabed for good
The alarm disarm is set to “Always with key”. We done this as discussed on a previous thread when I first encountered this issue. I will read the WSM alarm section to try and get a better understanding of the system, but I will say that even though I can fix just about anything made of metal, I’m electronics dyslexic !!
As usual on these matters SF, I can’t tell you how much we have come to rely on you to assist on electrical gremlins on these vehicles. I propose you start your own youtube site along the lines of Britannica Restorations, but for electronic issues. You would make a fortune
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I second this!The alarm disarm is set to “Always with key”. We done this as discussed on a previous thread when I first encountered this issue. I will read the WSM alarm section to try and get a better understanding of the system, but I will say that even though I can fix just about anything made of metal, I’m electronics dyslexic !!
As usual on these matters SF, I can’t tell you how much we have come to rely on you to assist on electrical gremlins on these vehicles. I propose you start your own youtube site along the lines of Britannica Restorations, but for electronic issues. You would make a fortune
and third it too.
@sierrafery … I have set everything as per the below photos. Should this eliminate the immobiliser completely and allow me to continue locking the vehicle manually via the drivers door lock ?
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sierrafery
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That's not OK, set the alarm option to disabled and the disarm to "always with key" .... which you said it's so but seems it isnt
according to your photo is "key never" so as long as the fob doesnt work every time you use the key it goes to immobilised status.... i insist with serenity and pls no offence....... but RTFM
