EGR removal - Help..

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scooby_doo_do

New Member
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Hi chaps,

I've got a EGR blanking plate and spare pipe so that i can remove the EGR. Only problem i'm having is that i can't get the damn bolts off.. I've tried a size 10 socket (which is now occasionaly slipping), a spanner, lots of WD but they aren't even budging.

Any suggestions, or shall i just try and drill the damn things out - which i think will be pretty awkward..

I'm trying to remove the top part (if that makes sense), or should i try and remove the part that's actually connected into the engine.. ?

Many thanks in advance.

Craig.
 
Heat is usually the answer. Get then hot with oxy or a good narrow flame blowlamp. Let them cool then loadsa wd40 and use a good socket on them. Oh yes and pray they don't snap!

If the socket is not snug you can get ones that will grip a rounded bolt.
 
Hi Scooby,
Its the two bolts that connect the bottom of the EGR valve to the exhaust manifold that you should be trying to remove. Lots of wd40 and a bit of patience is needed. I found an allen key and a bit of long tube over the end gave me enough leverage to get the bolts undone. They'll either just suddenly click and then come out easy or possibly shear off. Try also tapping the alley key head lightly with a hammer whilst turning, that should help with the initial freeing of the bolt.

Good luck mate.
 
you wont be able to get them off without heat. buy a blow torch or take it down ur local exhaust centre and ask them to warm them up and take them off. did mine on my td5 i had, took it to work and a few seconds with oxy accetalyne worked a treat.
 
In the end i had to take off the manifold and drill the nuts out.

Anybody attempting an EGR removal be prepared for the nuts to shear off on the cast iron manifold.

Think of how many times they have heated up and cooled down.
 
Discotigger said:
Hi Scooby,
Its the two bolts that connect the bottom of the EGR valve to the exhaust manifold that you should be trying to remove. Lots of wd40 and a bit of patience is needed. I found an allen key and a bit of long tube over the end gave me enough leverage to get the bolts undone. They'll either just suddenly click and then come out easy or possibly shear off. Try also tapping the alley key head lightly with a hammer whilst turning, that should help with the initial freeing of the bolt.

Good luck mate.
Click to expand...

That worked for me. Initial tap to the bolt heads first using a drift just to shock them a bit, then they cracked off no bother after that.
 
On my TD5 I applied WD40 every day for a few days before attempting the job. Then I warmed the engine a bit. Put the allen key into the bolt and tightened it a fraction to "crack" the seal. Then they came out quite easily, I must have been one of the lucky ones.
 
scooby_doo_do said:
Hi chaps,

I've got a EGR blanking plate and spare pipe so that i can remove the EGR. Only problem i'm having is that i can't get the damn bolts off.. I've tried a size 10 socket (which is now occasionaly slipping), a spanner, lots of WD but they aren't even budging.

Any suggestions, or shall i just try and drill the damn things out - which i think will be pretty awkward..

I'm trying to remove the top part (if that makes sense), or should i try and remove the part that's actually connected into the engine.. ?

Many thanks in advance.

Craig.
Click to expand...


Is this a TDi 300 or a TD5? If it's a TDi 300 and you can't shift the allen bolts, then just bolt the blanking plate on the other side (outlet) of the valve.
 
WD 40 is not that good as a penetrating oil , use Plus gas it is loads better and soak it on a regular basis, overnight if possible.Then give it a few GENTLE taps with a hammer to loosen things, more Plus gas, and if that does not work run the engine untill it is warm and try again, when engine warm and as it cools down . Regards Jonathan
 
I'll second plus gas, absolutely fantastic stuff, I haven't failed to get a bolt out yet. Just apply it liberally the night before you start the job, then again just before you start, and your off to go.
 
thebiglad said:
Is this a TDi 300 or a TD5? If it's a TDi 300 and you can't shift the allen bolts, then just bolt the blanking plate on the other side (outlet) of the valve.
Click to expand...

Don't forget though, to clean out the hose and manifold as they will most likely be full of gunge and tar. That will help a lot in the performance.
 
rightio.. Managed to get the pipe off from from the EGR valve but that was it.. The bolts into the engine and well and truly stuck, and now the ends have rounded off so the alan key just turns.. .. So i've stuck the planking plate on the front part and disconnected the eletric plug from the valve.

do you think that will be ok?

I've not noticed any difference in the running of the car and it still won't go above 70 unless the wind is behind and i'm rolling down the hill. Going up the hill is a struggle and at 70 i normally have to change down a gear to 4th to keep up the speed.

any other thoughts?

I'm going to have a crack at the sendimeter this sat - had a quick look and it's just a standalone oiled up jam jar in front of the rear wheel? doens't look like any connections go into it?

thanks in advance
 
May be a daft question but you are blanking off the correct part aren't you? This is a Freelander TD4 isn't it? I don't recognize some of the things you have said. - that's why I ask.
 
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