Egr removal causing over boost?

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minibreakdown

minibreakdown

Active Member
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2015-12-07 16.07.03.jpg hello all.
I have 2004 D2 td5 15p, which I bought as standard about two and a half years ago.

The first thing I had done was a stage one remap. Result, a totally different vehicle for the better and I should have stopped there.

Next a good 6 months later, De cat and Egr removed. Straight after that on hard acceleration and over 3200 rpm, limp home mode and turbo over boost confirmed via nanocom. When it first happened I did take down a load of real time data with the nanocom but I've lost them and to be truthful I've lived with as it only happens very rarely.
But now I have got a caravan and whilst going over the col De somport in the Pyrenees on my way to Spain towing, it became rather annoying having to sit behind lorries.

The questions I would like to ask are, in the photo, I have circled the 2 hoses/pipes that i think were disconnected from the egr and possibly blanked off, one of the caps is split, at the end of the lightening. Are these pipes supposed to be like this? Could this be the cause of the over boost?

Tried to get the garage who did it to rectify but absolutely useless and now out of business. Quelle supris
If you can't see the photo I will put it full size on the thread.

Cheers
 
Strange. EGR Blank should not cause overboost. I would suggest checking the amount of threads on the wastegate as it could have been altered. Or easier since you have a Nanocom, get the live data going and see what max boost is, should be around 14psi stock any higher than about 18psi will cause limp home mode.
 
bankz5152 said:
Strange. EGR Blank should not cause overboost. I would suggest checking the amount of threads on the wastegate as it could have been altered. Or easier since you have a Nanocom, get the live data going and see what max boost is, should be around 14psi stock any higher than about 18psi will cause limp home mode.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the quick repose and I didn't think they would be connected but it was just too much of a coincidence.
I've checked all the pipes for leaks, the waste gate is nice and loose, new maf, new (can't remember the name) where the 3 vacuum pipes come out from. So I'll check the threads and get the nanocom out again, oh joy as I nearly crashed last time I got the results. May have to ask the missus.
 
No worries, you don't need much space. Second gear foot to the floor will give you max boost, providing you have some open space to do it! That or hit the motorway.

MAP sensor probably!
 
bankz5152 said:
No worries, you don't need much space. Second gear foot to the floor will give you max boost, providing you have some open space to do it! That or hit the motorway.

MAP sensor probably!
Click to expand...
The one thing I haven't changed. I was even thinking of changing the vacuum hoses to silicone as I have heard there only needs to the smallest of leaks in the system.
I should be able to find a hill or twenty around here or a straight enough bit of road. Will post when done.
Cheers
 
Have you tried cleaning your map sensor, mine did similar on the td5 and the tdv6 in the d3. Black soot and ****e from the egr.

both work fine now
 
gazman said:
Have you tried cleaning your map sensor, mine did similar on the td5 and the tdv6 in the d3. Black soot and ****e from the egr.

both work fine now
Click to expand...
Is it easy to clean? Meths, white spirit petrol? Cheaper to clean than replace so I'll be trying this before the run back to the UK.
 
minibreakdown said:
Thanks for the quick repose and I didn't think they would be connected but it was just too much of a coincidence.
I've checked all the pipes for leaks, the waste gate is nice and loose, new maf, new (can't remember the name) where the 3 vacuum pipes come out from. So I'll check the threads and get the nanocom out again, oh joy as I nearly crashed last time I got the results. May have to ask the missus.
Click to expand...
over boost wont be caused by a leak,its either got too much pressure or sensor is failing, it is caused by blanking egr on a puma engine,but not heard of it on a td5
 
jamesmartin said:
over boost wont be caused by a leak,its either got too much pressure or sensor is failing, it is caused by blanking egr on a puma engine,but not heard of it on a td5
Click to expand...
Maybe I'll be the really lucky one that has a quirky discovery with an attitude problem.
 
I have found a thread started by ratty in sept 2013 on cleaning the map sensor on a td5. I'll be doing that tomorrow if I can find a product to replace the carb cleaner he used. Any suggestions please.
 
I used wd 40 on mine. Don't go proding into it with screwdrivers etc.

What I do is spray it to soak and then blow it off and wipe it on a rag. Repeat till all the soot and ****e is gone
 
IMO quite unlikely that a dirty MAP to cause overboost on the contrary it will cause lack of power as the muck will make it read lower not higher(though ckeaning it is a good move anyway), a leak in the pipe which comes from the intercooler to the bottom of the wategate modulator(that 3 pipe thingy) or in the one which goes from the modulator to the wastegate valve can cause overboost cos if pressure is lost on that path there will not be enough to open the wastegate, replace those pipes with silicone ones to rule them out also make sure that the modulator's electric plug is well connected, record a live data log with nanocom fuelling inputs and post it here then we'll know more cos the wastegate modulator's duty cycle will be visible then, the AAP reading is important too cos if that sensor is reading high the MAP reading will be higher too wich will be considered overboost by the ECM without being high boost in reality, count the threads from locknut on the wastedgate rod toward the valve, original setting is 13 left cos the previous owner might have adjusted the setting to overcome a low boost due to clogged EGR or something, no worries, overboost is one of the simplest things to fix on a Td5, way better than no boost :)
 
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I believe the vacuum pipes for the EGR valve work on the same vacuum circuit that goes to the brakes so if there's an open end on the pipe it may affect the vacuum to the brake servo. Have you noticed any change in braking efficiency at all? I've seen somewhere (that I can't find now) that someone does a replacement brake vacuum pipe so you can ditch all the egr vacuum pipes and solenoids
 
Good morning you all stay up to late for an old boy to answer straight away.

So there goes the simple clean the MAP sensor and all sorted. When I bought the car and after the remap I didn't get any turbo over boost so I don't think anybody has messed about with the number of threads on the waste gate. Once the EGR and cat were removed, the problem started immediately. I know this because I wanted to see the improvement in power and once pasted @ 3200 rpm juddered a bit, then limp mode, confirmed by nanocom. I did a lot of trawling the threads on here and changed the parts already previously mentioned by me. I did think I remembered that somewhere in those posts a leak in some system had caused over boost.

This is why in the original post I put the photo of the 2 pipes that had possibly been blanked off after removing the EGR or if a leak there could have caused the over boost. As for a problem with the brakes, funny you mention it. About a week ago I thought there was a problem with them, on approaching a roundabout, down hill, they didn't seem as efficient as normal. I have put it down to the road surface as since then I put the brakes through their paces and all has worked well or should I say the car stopped as it should. Thanks for the heads up on a possible very dangerous problem though.

I think the way forward for me is to clean the MAP anyway, seal off the pipe properly that looks like it may have a leak (if that is how they should be left after EGR removal), go for a drive and get the live data before changing vacuum pipes, order and change the vacuum pipes for silicone ones (any ides of internal diameter?), check modulators plug is correct, I will check the threads to the waste gate and finally once the pipes are changed do another run for the live data.

Now off to dig a French drain around the house as that is easier.
 
I've seen few cases when the owners adjusted the wastegate rod to overcome a low boost caused by clogged EGR or CAT so worth a check anyway... if you can record an inputs fuelling log from a drive on SD card then post it here i'm sure we'll find the culprit
 
sierrafery said:
I've seen few cases when the owners adjusted the wastegate rod to overcome a low boost caused by clogged EGR or CAT so worth a check anyway... if you can record an inputs fuelling log from a drive on SD card then post it here i'm sure we'll find the culprit
Click to expand...
I admire your confidence in my abilities to get the data and post on here. I will check the number of threads as well.
 
minibreakdown said:
When I bought the car and after the remap I didn't get any turbo over boost so I don't think anybody has messed about with the number of threads on the waste gate. Once the EGR and cat were removed, the problem started immediately. .
Click to expand...

I'm wondering if the boost had been turned up a bit to overcome a blocked cat, and now that it's flowing more freely it may be too much for it leading to limp mode? I had a BMW 5 series de-catted and de-dpf'd and the remap I had with that actually turned down the boost pressure quite a bit to prevent an overboost situation.

Whoops, just noticed that SF said something similar earlier about the EGR. :oops:

For the vacuum pipe, some EGR removal kit suppliers suggest using a screw in the end of the pipe to block it off. My kit had caps to do the same job
 
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