Egr Blanking Mod

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Chaser said:
I think the reason we are 'feeling' varying results is likely to be because of the varying condition of the particular EGR systems being replaced. We all agree it's a crap system that malfunctions even on relatively low mileage vehicles. It could be that those that notice the most improvement have without realising, bypassed more faulty systems. :)
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Could be at that. My bypass gave a real boost almost as big a step as when I next fitted the synergy module. My original egr though it appeared to operate when I sucked hard on the vacuum pipe was probably well goosed. I know I'm gonna get serious flak for my choice of words there...................
 
chromiumuk said:
Could be at that. My bypass gave a real boost almost as big a step as when I next fitted the synergy module. My original egr though it appeared to operate when I sucked hard on the vacuum pipe was probably well goosed. I know I'm gonna get serious flak for my choice of words there...................
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Could be that it wasn't sealing when shut ......

And if the modulator fecks up the valve either closes too slowly or doesn't close at all.....
 
just took a snap of my egr (93k).

Frightening.
 

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Billy-g said:
just took a snap of my egr (93k).

Frightening.
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give it a soak in some parafin, it'll come up a treat with a bit of attention from a toothbrush (electric one is best, but make sure you use wife's as it makes it taste funny), then put it back for now till you get your bypass.

when you put it back, just plug the end of the blue cotton covered pipe wit a 1" No.8 woodscrew or similar and don't reconnect it. That will also help a bit till you get your bypass.

Having done just those two things, mine seems a lot better, so I'm not bothering with the bypass just yet. Plus got other things I need to spend £40 on...
 
Optimus Prime said:
give it a soak in some parafin, it'll come up a treat with a bit of attention from a toothbrush (electric one is best, but make sure you use wife's as it makes it taste funny), then put it back for now till you get your bypass.

when you put it back, just plug the end of the blue cotton covered pipe wit a 1" No.8 woodscrew or similar and don't reconnect it. That will also help a bit till you get your bypass.

Having done just those two things, mine seems a lot better, so I'm not bothering with the bypass just yet. Plus got other things I need to spend £40 on...
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yes that will help O P.this has been covered on another fred but some people still will not believe that putting a by pass on gives any real benefit,i have got one on one of my cars and it makes a great difference.:D:D:D
 
gemsdad said:
yes that will help O P.this has been covered on another fred but some people still will not believe that putting a by pass on gives any real benefit,i have got one on one of my cars and it makes a great difference.:D:D:D
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maybe we need someone with access to a dyno/rolling road who's going to do the mod, or is happy to do it at the dyno station (it isn't hard to do, even by the side of the road)

then we could have a set of before and after figures to settle the argument scientifically once and for all.
 
Have got a bypass on the way (fleabay £47, and the bloke has taken ages to deliver) I just need to fit that, inlet manifold, maf (fleabay £48, results to post) Glow plugs (fleabay £12, first cold start has been a bit hit n miss). Engine is in bits, but I have had to work all W/E. Well... go to work at least!
 
Hi, sorry if i have posted this in the wrong way but i need a little help, i have read all the great info about the egr mods, before i get the blanking kit i want to try the way of just removing the vac hose, would i be correct in thinking that if i pull off the small blue colour hose and tie it with a cable tie to block it, thats the first and cheap way of bypassing the egr valve, any info would be great thanks peter, :confused: P.S when i took the egr valve off its not that clogged up, the td4 has done 50500k, full service history, will i see a great improvement with the tube disconnected and then the bypass kit
 
trevoryuasa said:
Hi, sorry if i have posted this in the wrong way but i need a little help, i have read all the great info about the egr mods, before i get the blanking kit i want to try the way of just removing the vac hose, would i be correct in thinking that if i pull off the small blue colour hose and tie it with a cable tie to block it, thats the first and cheap way of bypassing the egr valve, any info would be great thanks peter, :confused: P.S when i took the egr valve off its not that clogged up, the td4 has done 50500k, full service history, will i see a great improvement with the tube disconnected and then the bypass kit
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yes you will notice a slight improvment but nowhere near as much as if you had put the straight through pipe on it.:D
 
I have cleaned out my EGR Valve and removed and blanked the vacuum hose. Has any one noticed that their engine and heater output are running cooler after this mod? The temp gauge is slightly lower on the dial and the air coming out the heater seems noticibly cooler. I am presuming the exhaust gas is not flowing past the EGR cooler hence the slower warmup and cooler running. This is in winter conditions. By the way, I have noticed a major decrease in exhaust smoke after the cleanout.
 
I have just cleaned out my egr valve and blocked the vac pipe, it was not as bad as some i have seen on this page, it has made an improvement in low down power, and yes it seems to run a little cooler, warms up just as fast but not as far,
 
Can I ask the people who have done this mod and have cleaned the inlet manifold at the same time, did u have to replace the gaskets between the manifold and the engine? Don't want to get caught out if they need replacing and I haven't got them. Cheers
 
nitropaul said:
Can I ask the people who have done this mod and have cleaned the inlet manifold at the same time, did u have to replace the gaskets between the manifold and the engine? Don't want to get caught out if they need replacing and I haven't got them. Cheers
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Yes the gaskets are quite durable and can be reused.....;)
 
Does anyone know when you are fitting the EGR blanking mod. Once it is bolted on there is one area to connect a hose to and another bit protrudes from the blanking mod which I take it fits into the little hose to blank it off and is secured with a clip. So is the plastic bit shown on the picture on the first page put back and just the other bit is left off coz the blanking mod is on or is it left off?

sorry new to all this :)
 
assuming you are talking about the latest ones, it has a pin to fix the redundant vac pipe to and another connection to allow the fitting of a boost gauge which should have a cap in place to seal it.
 
As I suffered of the same problem (it was me who opened the spindown noise thread namely) after quite a while one of the good souls on the forum here (sorry but I forgot the name, one of the advantages of getting older.....:() explained to block off the vacuum arrival on the egr-solenoïd as apparently this would cause that funny noise. As that is somewhere down at the engine I could follow the tubes with my hand but was unable to take off the tube in question let alone to block it off down there, so I followed again the arrival tube at the solenoïd up to where it came from and I found this vacuum comes almost straight from the vacuumpump, so I took that tube off the line (that goes from the vacuumpump towards the brakevacuumcilinder) and put a couple of layers of ducktape over the hole in that plastic piece, then I slid that tube over it again, nothing visible and since I haven't heard that fast ticking spindown noise anymore. Have added a picture to show what tube I mean. Gently prise it off (I used a pair of long beck pliers to "push" it off the plastic little pipe while I held that plastic piece firmly with my other hand to avoid things break off), put a couple of layers of ducktape in crossformat and push the tube over this all again. Good luck. Picture is taken from front of the car and things shown are on the right hand side. Mine being a European edition with steering wheel on the correct left side, the position of all this might be different on the RHD cars. The 2nd picture I added to give you a better idea where the first one was taken of. The yellow arrows on the second pic. only indicate where I put re-inforcements around the different tubes to avoid they get punctured by touching relatively sharp edges/pieces/corners.
 

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