Egr Blanking Mod

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SOMEBODY PLEASE HELP!

I'm in the process of putting the manifold back on after installing an EGR bypass, but I seem to have two electrical connectors, but only one socket to put them in!

I remember disconnecting the green one, but the black one seems like the logical one to fit in the socket as it is so short and so near the socket.

I am VERY confused and eager to start the engine and test the EGR bypass.. PLEASE HELP! :-/

one.jpg


two.jpg
 
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So the black one plugs into the fuel rail when I reinstall it.

The green one comes from the ECU... what do I do with that? I distinctly remember removing the green one.

Will it do any damage if I run the car without it?


HERE IS a video that demonstrates my problem...
 
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UPDATE: I plugged in the black one into the fuel rail and it wouldn't start. I replaced it with the green one and it started straight away.

I remember removing the green one, which makes me think that maybe the black one wasn't plugged into anything to begin with....

... any thoughts?
 
JimiTheSaint said:
UPDATE: I plugged in the black one into the fuel rail and it wouldn't start. I replaced it with the green one and it started straight away.

I remember removing the green one, which makes me think that maybe the black one wasn't plugged into anything to begin with....

... any thoughts?
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On my FL 1 TD4 the black connector plugs into the fuel rail and I do not have the other wire coming from the ECU box ? maybe yours as been modified in some way again ? pics below of mine
 

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Mine is a 2004 TD4 ... maybe there's a modification to the later models. I read something hinting to that effect on another forum.

Either way, it wouldn't start with the black plug.
 
JimiTheSaint said:
Mine is a 2004 TD4 ... maybe there's a modification to the later models. I read something hinting to that effect on another forum.

Either way, it wouldn't start with the black plug.
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Mine is a 2004-05 plate as well facelift edition ;) the second photo below is the turbo boost pressure sensor mounted on the right hand side of the manifold. so it would not be for that.

The first photo is the fuel high pressure sensor and located in the left hand end of the common fuel rail, that is why I am thinking yours as been modified in some way, open the ECU box and see where the other end fits doe's your car have a synergy ?
 

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UPDATE: I drove it today, and it is TERRIBLE!

Pick-up is slow, and it tops out way too early. The EGR bypass is supposed to improve performance not reduce it... so I'm guessing it has something to do with the black and green connectors ... has anyone else got both black and green connectors???
 
where does the green plug connect to inside the fuse box?

are you sure it didnt have a chip box on it?

Do the later models have electronic controlled egrs?

was the engine running fine before you broke it :p
 
JimiTheSaint said:
UPDATE: I drove it today, and it is TERRIBLE!

Pick-up is slow, and it tops out way too early. The EGR bypass is supposed to improve performance not reduce it... so I'm guessing it has something to do with the black and green connectors ... has anyone else got both black and green connectors???
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Note from the photo below I do not have a wire coming from my ECU box.


jedi said:
where does the green plug connect to inside the fuse box?

are you sure it didnt have a chip box on it?

Do the later models have electronic controlled egrs?

was the engine running fine before you broke it :p
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Hi Jedi.
The later FL1 facelift doe's not have electronic controlled EGR but it will/should have an inline Turbocharger boost temperature sensor, but I doubt the green plug is for that, second pic below.
 

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It's a mystery to me then...[emoji33]

Not sure if it's the freelander but I read somewhere that the fuel rail cable wiring can break and they fit a new harness? And not remove the old?
 
PROBLEM SOLVED!

Apparently, the black connector which normally plugs directly into the fuel pressure sensor on the fuel rail is not used on this late model FL1. Instead it has a green connector which comes direct from the side of the ECU box. I read somewhere that it is an upgrade on later models. Therefore the black connector is not used, and just dangles there.

The problem I was having was because I'm a klutz :rolleyes:, and I had mistakenly forgotten to reconnect one of the sensors on the rubber hoses on the left that connect to the air box!

Once I plugged that back in, I was up and running!

I feel a significant improvement in performance at low revs since fitting the EGR bypass... but I'm not sure how much of that is because it was driving like a pig yesterday when I had that left sensor disconnected.

I think I feel a difference though. I just went and picked up an air/pollen/oil/turbo vent/crankcase breather/fuel filter and 10lts of 5/30 semiSynth, and plan on doing a full service tomorrow.

Let's see if I can improve on the 30mpg I'm getting after fitting the EGR bypass and the full service!
 
We fitted an EGR blanking unit and a "sports" air filter at the 60,000 mile service a couple of months ago. Much to my surprise there was a noticeable difference and the engine seemed to be much responsive. Having fitted these type of air filters on other cars where it seems to make zero difference (as I read at best it will only marginally increase BHP if at all, I only fit them these days because I can re use them and leave the manufactures inlets standard.) it must be down to the EGR by pass. Unfortunately our pc decided to crash and took with it all the fuel consumption records so we can't tell if it's had a noticeable difference in that area.
 
Hi carl
just wondered what EGR you fitted and where did you get it, I am looking to fit one soon but some of the posts recommending particular ones are too old and the links have gone, been looking on the bay but still not sure which one to go for, anyone recommend one to me ?
cheers for any help.
 
Arctic2 said:
Any of these will fit I prefer to just give the original EGR a good clean twice a year only takes about an hour.

Rover 75 2.0TD Turbo Diesel EGR Removal Delete Kit | eBay

LAND ROVER FREELANDER TD4 FULL STAINLESS STEEL EGR BLANK BYPASS REMOVAL KIT | eBay
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Cheers for that Arctic, cant be bothered to strip it off every 6 months or so, got an Audi tt 2001 to maintain as well..comes with its own TT known faults lol. still got a non-working window and a thermostat issue, oh and my FBH dosnt work on the Freelander to be going on with.
 
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