Egr Blanking Mod

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I would just visit your local BMW dealer and ask for the vortex filter insert for my TD4 engined freelander, my dealer knew exactly what I needed and charged me £24.
 
Last edited:
digby said:
Hi Guys

I am new to freelander ownership but have owned BMW diesels for many years

Interesting reading this (long) thread - got a sort of sense of deja vu.

Not surprising as the TD4 is a (the) 2 litre BMW engine.

I just wanted to confirm that you guys have arrived at the good conclusions.
In fact the EGR system is designed to reduce NOx emmissions by reducing combustion temperatures in the engine. Unfortunately this has the disadvantage of letting of the "goo" into the inlet manifold. :(
In BMW jargon blocking the vacuum pipe is the "golf tee mod". Fitting an actual EGR bypass is a matter of choice but as far as stopping the build up of the black sticky stuff the golf Tee mod does the job.
There is also of course a considerable amount of oil that gets recycled through the inlet system - this oil originates from the air/ oil seperator. The "loo-roll" type filter needs changing on a regular basis (every 3 oil changes in BMW land) as once its blocked it can apparently shorten the life of your turbo due to excessive oil pressure ..... as well as causing black smoke emissions.
BMW sell a cyclone/vortex type seperator which does not need any regular changing or servicing - should be a good investment for landrovers too.

Regarding the inlet ports in the cylinder head - I saw one mention of swirl flaps. These are used on BMW's to "tune" the air inlet. Maybe on the landrover the swirl flap system is not used - I didnt look on mine yet as I only got it 1 week ago :) Anyway BMW forums are full of horror stories of swirl flaps falling into engines..... lets hope they are not fitted to the landrover.

For any of you looking for solutions to low power, poor acceleration, smoke etc etc on your TD4 them i can recommend url=http://bimmerforums.co.uk]BMW Forum|Bimmerforums.co.uk|No1 forum for BMWs|BMW Forums|BMW Tuning[/url] to you

Looking forward to sharing experiences with you all and contributing to your site

Digby
Click to expand...

Great post and welcome to LZ, prepare for much sharing and the occasional wind-up! :)
Golf tee method... cool! I have a pipe and peg method (metal shelf peg and about 30mm of silicon hose) that also works a treat. Lo tech and cheap too. Good times :welcome:
 
Just to confirm guys - Part Nr. 11127799224 is for the complete kit - vortex / cyclone bit and the cover.

I seem to remember that costs around £60.00

The 'innards' are all that you really need to get - BMW refer to the cyclone / vortex bit as an 'Oil Separator'.

Part Nr. is B11.12.7.799.367and it costs £23.35 including VAT.

Hope that helps.

Singvogel. :cool:
 
I take it that this BMW oil separator will need replacing every so often?

If so, how often?



dog-man
 
dog-man said:
I take it that this BMW oil separator will need replacing every so often?

If so, how often?



dog-man
Click to expand...

No - the cyclone vortex part cannot block or wear out. It needs only a wash in petrol or white spirit every 100K or so.

The cover part does have a spring in it so I would give that a check and a wash too.

I see nothing that would make me replace the cover other than the spring weakening with age. I'm not going to to touch it for years.

BMW say every 3rd oil change - but with 'extended interval' oil changes that could be as much as 100k depending on usage / service computer etc.

Singvogel. :cool:
 
The 3rd oil change is for the loo-roll type filter
No need to change the vortex one although a wash would not hurt
Funny that this item is not in the bmw service schedules - at least not the publicised ones !

Digby
 
digby said:
The 3rd oil change is for the loo-roll type filter
No need to change the vortex one although a wash would not hurt
Funny that this item is not in the bmw service schedules - at least not the publicised ones !

Digby
Click to expand...

Neglecting to change the loo-roll effort could seriously damage your wealth.

I also forgot to mention that the BMW M47R as used in Freelanders, Rover 75s and MG Zts never had the swirl-flaps that also cause failures that can empty your wallet. Thank god for that.

S.
 
Can anyone confirm if the bolts that come with the egr mod kit are actually bolts needing a socket to tighten or exactly like the originals where an allen key is needed?

I took mine off today to give it a clean and I had problems accessing the lower bolt nearest the rad. If they are the same as the originals, I will have to source a longer allen key.


dog-man
 
dog-man said:
Can anyone confirm if the bolts that come with the egr mod kit are actually bolts needing a socket to tighten or exactly like the originals where an allen key is needed?

I took mine off today to give it a clean and I had problems accessing the lower bolt nearest the rad. If they are the same as the originals, I will have to source a longer allen key.


dog-man
Click to expand...

They are usually exactly the same type.

A long Allan key is a great help - also makes reaching the similar sized rear air-filter screws easier.

Singvogel. :cool2:
 
I shall have to get one then.

What size is it?

I can't see any indication of the size on my short allen key.


dog-man
 
Also very useful is a quarter inch drive socket set with exchangable bits - allen, torx, screwdriver flat and cross head
Combined with extensions and joints it gives access to many places
 
Quick info dump - Today have changed EGR to bypass and fitted new turbo vent and crank breather filters, plus oil filter and change and air filter. Boy was it s***ted up in the manifold and old EGR.

Just a tip - I sealed off the EGR hole in the manif temporarily, spooned some dishwasher powder into each hole in the manif and then filled it with boiling water. Repeat three times and it is shiny as new !!!

Incidentally, car feels like it can breath again now ! Anyone working on the TD4 - please don't omit the crankcase filter - it needs changing or upgrading. Mine came off without disturbing the fuel pipes, just removed star bolts and mover injector wiring gently out of the way. Great thread and info - note - even RAVE doesn't seem to require crankcase filter change !!!
 
andyfreelandy said:
Quick info dump - Today have changed EGR to bypass and fitted new turbo vent and crank breather filters, plus oil filter and change and air filter. Boy was it s***ted up in the manifold and old EGR.

Just a tip - I sealed off the EGR hole in the manif temporarily, spooned some dishwasher powder into each hole in the manif and then filled it with boiling water. Repeat three times and it is shiny as new !!!

Incidentally, car feels like it can breath again now ! Anyone working on the TD4 - please don't omit the crankcase filter - it needs changing or upgrading. Mine came off without disturbing the fuel pipes, just removed star bolts and mover injector wiring gently out of the way. Great thread and info - note - even RAVE doesn't seem to require crankcase filter change !!!
Click to expand...
You'll be pleased to know that your labours will have been in vain as the next time you remove the inter cooler pipes they will still be full of oil, just seems to be the system. If anyone can prove me wrong please do as I would like to get rid of all the oil in my intake system.
 
Yes, my guess too, only difference is that the oil no longer carbonised by the hot air (exhaust gasses) in the EGR, but for the rest as greasy as you can think of.
 
I agree with both nick and willo - oil is always in those turbo pipes.

Doesn't seem to build up, or do any harm though - just stays the same amount.

Not having the exhaust gases mixing with it obviously prevents it changing into the sticky gloop that we don't want.

Singvogel. :cool2:
 
Just a thought.I cant undo the 2 allen bolts on my 1999 Disco 2 that hold the EGR onto the manifold,Although i have a full set of allen keys metric and imperial i cant seem to get one tight enough in the allen bolt head.So can you leave the metal EGR pipe fitted to the manifold as stock and blank of the other end of the pipe ? Just a another thought.( Evan thought of hack sawing the metal pipe off and squashing the end and put a bit of weld on the joint )Yea i know its a bodge but when i have put the closest fitting allen key in the bolt heads and applied pressure i know that either the key will slip then round off or the bolts will prob snap.
 
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