Take the lid of the fuse box and see if it smells of burning, pull the fan relays and look for bluing in the pins.Hi I saw something on here once upon a time about the fuse box on a p38 causing problems with the various ecu’s. there was a link to a very helpful article with the fix to it. Does anyone know what I’m talking about and know the fix. Thanks
There is no common fault on the P38 fuse box that damages the ECU's other than the tendency for the fuse box to burn causing problems that the ECU's often wrongly get blamed for.Thanks but it was a bit more in-depth than that apparently there is a common fault on the fuse box that damages the ecu’s. the fix involved soldering something
Already tried that one I’m going through sensors and checking connections there as wellHave a check of the white connector behind the left front a post trim for green corrosion, it can give all sorts of problems.
most cut out the connector and solder and heat shrink the wires.
Bad earths.It’s staying up over night. I think I had to be some thing electrical. Something g has caused my original ecu to go bad. If I changed height settings it wasnt saving them and all four height sensors are giving wildly inaccurate numbers without the pump running or the engine running the heights on all four sensors are changing in the ecu but the car is not moving. I have also had the car think it’s in driving height but it’s actually been closer to access mode.
It’s staying up over night. I think I had to be some thing electrical. Something g has caused my original ecu to go bad. If I changed height settings it wasnt saving them and all four height sensors are giving wildly inaccurate numbers without the pump running or the engine running the heights on all four sensors are changing in the ecu but the car is not moving. I have also had the car think it’s in driving height but it’s actually been closer to access mode.
The one behind the a post doesn’t show any signs or corrosion and it looks like someone has been there before me and done some work on thatThat sounds like a bad connector(s) somewhere. The driver pack connector has been known to give issues - the one inside the EAS box. Then there's the one behind the A-post which I think you've already replaced?
Extra electrics are not a good idea, the electrics are complicated enough to start with, so depending what has been done the extras may be interfering.I’m confident there are no leaks and sensors all look like they are on good condition with good connections. My car has had a lot of aftermarket electrics fitted to it by someone with enough electrical knowledge to be dangerous ( there are lots of extra fuses that should t be there) could any of that be causing problems
Is the work done well? Soldered joints if the connector has been removed with heat shrink insulation? Worth checking the joints.The one behind the a post doesn’t show any signs or corrosion and it looks like someone has been there before me and done some work on that
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