P38A EAS wiring

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cornishboater

cornishboater

Well-Known Member
Posts
637
Location
Poole, Dorset
Now I’ve done it! I ventured into the passenger side kick panel to check the connector, I thought I had hard wired it but it was the drivers side I did. I unplugged both white connectors and to be fair they were not too green, however I did clean them with contact cleaner and a small stiff brush. Now the car rises high on the passenger side and is a good 3” higher than the drivers side. I then proceeded to look for the faults with EASUnlock and it will now not connect. When I run the software I do get a beep and the max 35mph but not diagnostic connection. Any ideas what I may have buggered up? I did have the car sitting quite good before this but was just going through the connections before I did the calibrations, wish I hadn’t now!
 
In all fairness the connectors didn’t look too bad but I decided to clean them anyway. The obd port is as clean as a whistle, it was fine up until I disconnected and cleaned the 2 plugs! Any idea which wires are the data feed to the diagnostics? Maybe during the moving of the loom a wire may have been broken. Would unplugging the connectors scramble the data in the eas ecu?
I am going to solder the wires today and keep my fingers crossed
 
Appearances are deceptive, although the connectors looked clean some of the wires had rotted out. All soldered now and secure, however when selecting heights the passenger side rises 3” higher than the drivers side. EASUnlock shows no faults and only a 4 bit difference side to side. Prior to all this wire/connector issue I only had a 1” difference on the rear near side, the other 3 corners were very close to each other.
 
Does the suspension settle down after a couple o minutes ,Mine goes high on left side front and rear not always ,but settles back down after a minute or so , only happens after starting n been stood a week or so and air tanks low....;)
 
dubbleRR said:
Does the suspension settle down after a couple o minutes ,Mine goes high on left side front and rear not always ,but settles back down after a minute or so , only happens after starting n been stood a week or so and air tanks low....;)
Click to expand...

Might do. Later EAS computers limited the amount of adjustment so if one or two corners are low it might go up and then sort itself out. Or it might be a height sensor track is worn and has dubious readings sometimes.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Might do. Later EAS computers limited the amount of adjustment so if one or two corners are low it might go up and then sort itself out. Or it might be a height sensor track is worn and has dubious readings sometimes.
Click to expand...
Quite common for a worn , damaged height sensor to give out poor readings, sometimes the con rod is perished and the rubber split so the h-sensor lever moves too far.
 
dubbleRR said:
Does the suspension settle down after a couple o minutes ,Mine goes high on left side front and rear not always ,but settles back down after a minute or so , only happens after starting n been stood a week or so and air tanks low....;)
Click to expand...
The suspension doesn't really settle when I go to access, both standard and access lights flash although the car seems to be down, it is slightly down on the right (1/2" ish) I took it for a drive around the block and it is a little more level (only 1 1/2" - 2" on the LH now) maybe it needs a bit more driving to settle the suspension a tad. I don't want to do the calibration and then find it was settling down and have to do it all over again! It does take forever to go up now though, I have done the test on the compressor and it is impossible to keep a finger over the outlet so I can only assume it is ok.
 
If the bit values stored in ECU are within 4 bits, and the car still leans at all heights, it sounds like a loose or misaligned sensor(s). You could check them before replacing with Nanocom or EAS-Unlock.
  • With doors open & ignition on, connect the diagnostics.
  • Detach the rubber thingy on each sensor arm & move slowly through similar range to the suspension movement.
  • Check the bit values change steadily through the range, with no sudden jumps.
Then consider calibrating but with the extra first step below.
  1. Put car on height blocks at normal height. Then physically adjust sensors so each reading is as close as possible.
  2. Now start calibration by saving the new normal height values.
  3. Next adjust the car above extended, and insert the extended height blocks. Lower car onto blocks & then save values.
  4. Repeat for each height.
 
pwood999 said:
If the bit values stored in ECU are within 4 bits, and the car still leans at all heights, it sounds like a loose or misaligned sensor(s). You could check them before replacing with Nanocom or EAS-Unlock.
  • With doors open & ignition on, connect the diagnostics.
  • Detach the rubber thingy on each sensor arm & move slowly through similar range to the suspension movement.
  • Check the bit values change steadily through the range, with no sudden jumps.
Then consider calibrating but with the extra first step below.
  1. Put car on height blocks at normal height. Then physically adjust sensors so each reading is as close as possible.
  2. Now start calibration by saving the new normal height values.
  3. Next adjust the car above extended, and insert the extended height blocks. Lower car onto blocks & then save values.
  4. Repeat for each height.
Click to expand...
how do you adjust the sensors Mr. P? ;)
 
pwood999 said:
If the bit values stored in ECU are within 4 bits, and the car still leans at all heights, it sounds like a loose or misaligned sensor(s). You could check them before replacing with Nanocom or EAS-Unlock.
  • With doors open & ignition on, connect the diagnostics.
  • Detach the rubber thingy on each sensor arm & move slowly through similar range to the suspension movement.
  • Check the bit values change steadily through the range, with no sudden jumps.
Then consider calibrating but with the extra first step below.
  1. Put car on height blocks at normal height. Then physically adjust sensors so each reading is as close as possible.
  2. Now start calibration by saving the new normal height values.
  3. Next adjust the car above extended, and insert the extended height blocks. Lower car onto blocks & then save values.
  4. Repeat for each height.
Click to expand...
Can this just be done from EASUnlock or would it have to be done in live mode on the nanocom? With EASUnlock when I go to the heights tab there is quite a difference in heights whereas on the calibration tab the bit count is not reflecting the same
 
cornishboater said:
Can this just be done from EASUnlock or would it have to be done in live mode on the nanocom? With EASUnlock when I go to the heights tab there is quite a difference in heights whereas on the calibration tab the bit count is not reflecting the same
Click to expand...
I stick with the nanocom, I also found the eas unlock a touch unreliable, as good as it is... The Nano in live mode is my choice. @pwood999 are we talking about bending the sensor arms to get them spot on. I also at the moment have a lean but all the sensors are equal....
 
Mark Piercy said:
I stick with the nanocom, I also found the eas unlock a touch unreliable, as good as it is... The Nano in live mode is my choice. @pwood999 are we talking about bending the sensor arms to get them spot on. I also at the moment have a lean but all the sensors are equal....
Click to expand...

Getting the bokts undone to shift it slightly can be an utter nightmare so a slight bend probably easier.
 
Firstly check for bent sensor arms or loose joints on the plastic parts. You might get lucky on the bolts, but spray them with Plus Gas each evening for a few days !!

Main thing is to check the bit counts change gradually throughout the usual range. If they glitch then it's more likely to be a bad sensor.

Remember it only takes one sensor to make the car lean quite a bit
 
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