P38A EAS what am I missing?

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Depends what I'm doing. As you said above with RSW software it's easy to move corners up & down and then write them.

With Nanocom it's more awkward (albeit possible) to do without Up & Down buttons, so I use my manual box connected to valve block driver, and Nanocom to read the values.

I also use the manual box to extend front or rear manually when working on car, because I'm a short-arse. i.e. when doing stuff that requires above & below engine, etc. it makes it really easy to raise & lower as needed with engine off. It also automatically controls an airline solenoid plus diaphragm valve, so I can have the tank refill from workshop compressor rather than using the pump.
 
Diag appears to be ok but sensor doesnt get to set height.
I need to get another copy of RSW software cos my old one doesnt seem to work anymore
 
oakey said:
Thats very technical thank you
May well give it a shot.
May be a duff sensor and I havent soldered the cables in the A post yet but I thought the sensor wires went straight to the ECU?
Click to expand...
Is the rubber con-rod perished that is fitted to the h-sensor lever r the rubber perished or split where it is fitted to the lever ?
This can cause issues sometimes
 
Ok that figures as this is the third time that sensor had been replaced.
Cleaned contacts with contact spray when I changed it but wonder if its iffy under the seat. Carpets are dry
 
The wires on the link-lead to the sensors connection sometimes bare the wires under the insulation and touch the other wires. Would not think its this problem but I have had some very intermittent strange readings and going on before I found it on customers vehicle.
 
Good idea
Just changed bump stops so will try and calibrate again tomorrow if I can get a new copy of RSW software
 
kurtjohnson10 said:
The wires on the link-lead to the sensors connection sometimes bare the wires under the insulation and touch the other wires. Would not think its this problem but I have had some very intermittent strange readings and going on before I found it on customers vehicle.
Click to expand...
Hi Kurt, I have been fighting an intermittent fault for a very long time, have replaced with new rear sensors (fault always seems to be from the rear) I have cleaned all connectors and removed the white one behind the kick panel. When I have tested continuity from the rear all seems ok. Is it a straight run from the sensors to the ECU or are the any other nefarious connectors in between?
 
cornishboater said:
Hi Kurt, I have been fighting an intermittent fault for a very long time, have replaced with new rear sensors (fault always seems to be from the rear) I have cleaned all connectors and removed the white one behind the kick panel. When I have tested continuity from the rear all seems ok. Is it a straight run from the sensors to the ECU or are the any other nefarious connectors in between?
Click to expand...
I have found issues a couple of times with the lead that the height sensor is plugged into. The wires become hardened and corroded or wear and cause intermittent faults.
 
kurtjohnson10 said:
I have found issues a couple of times with the lead that the height sensor is plugged into. The wires become hardened and corroded or wear and cause intermittent faults.
Click to expand...
Thanks mate, I checked the connectors and they seem not too bad to be fair, I was wondering if there were any connectors between the sensors and the ECU. I can’t see any on the wiring diagram
 
cornishboater said:
Thanks mate, I checked the connectors and they seem not too bad to be fair, I was wondering if there were any connectors between the sensors and the ECU. I can’t see any on the wiring diagram
Click to expand...
They should be part of the main body loom. I never found any intermediate connections, but don't rule out hidden LR splices within the loom that are not on the diagrams !! RAVE does have omissions & mistakes in places.
 
Calibrated her today at last.
Had changed one of the rear sensors
With blocks in place all sensors gave sensible answers except the new one.
The original side read 109 and the new one 147 !!!!
Of course that figure wouldnt be accepted.
Took the wee arm off the spring and moved it up and down lots of times and cleaned the contacts on the leads.
Tried again and now read 112 so accepted that and seems to be working fine so far
 
oakey said:
Calibrated her today at last.
Had changed one of the rear sensors
With blocks in place all sensors gave sensible answers except the new one.
The original side read 109 and the new one 147 !!!!
Of course that figure wouldnt be accepted.
Took the wee arm off the spring and moved it up and down lots of times and cleaned the contacts on the leads.
Tried again and now read 112 so accepted that and seems to be working fine so far
Click to expand...
One of the after market Chinese ones? I had to swap sides with my replacement one, the other replacement I managed to get a Dunlop one from Paddock’s, seem to be calibrating ok so far
 
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