P38A EAS -prior minor issues then failure - no real accumulating indicators

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frozen north 2

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'97 P38 had some earlier issues all of a sudden. Got past those and broke down and bought the EAS kicker and Becm blk boxes. Was all good. EAS fault came up a couple times and kicker resolved but... now some major fault apparently - riding in town getting home on bumpers is a ba.. jarring experience.
Tried kicker a couple of times "cleared faults - but just one time I heard the compressor kick in for a couple seconds - last time i heard it.

Before this - no real reoccurring issues. Just some times it seemed compressor ran to much. Some times come out in morning vehicle dropped to enter level. A few times could hear air release from rear just after it was parked. It always adjusted on its own between city and highway driving. Never was the vehicle off balance, front or rear fail or took to long to fill. Recently after it was parked for a few months no issues for a couple weeks of almost daily driving and then progressively the compressor running etc started.

So - will go over what I have done,
Inspected compressor / disconnected from outlet - did the relay 20 jumper by pass and ran - only a little air coming out. So got the X8R kit and rebuilt - dramatic improvement - but not sure what perfect should be - one can still block the air outlet with finger with out much trouble.
Installed compressor Plugged in kicker cleared faults again started it again still four flashing lights and EAS fault and did not hear compressor running.

Had also got the valve block rebuild kit X8R with diaphragm and the pressure switch.
Rebuilt the valve block - which appears to be a 2006 version - part date stamps and several "tested" stickers on it. So has already been replaced / rebuilt.
(didnt replace pressure switch - tested original - open properly when block had no pressure / no continuity)

So through it all back together today - doesn't take much time second time around -
Just to be sure - ran the Becm black box and then the kicker - all communicating all green flashing.
Started it up and EAS / flashing lights that go solid
Went through the whole routine again - and the same result - but this time I heard three high pressure puffs of air - assume through the valve exhaust port as I turned off engine.
Have to re test pressure switch - open - earlier but not sure if it had built up enough pressure for the switch to trigger.
Is a bad pressure switch enough to continue EAS fault - even with kicker "faults cleared"

Will do the "relay by pass" and run compressor for a bit longer and "maybe build some higher pressure - and retest switch.
Guess I can confirm tank pressure by partially opening one of the air lines at block.

What do I know; none of the rebuilt kits were tough to do - existing O rings looked OK but replaced / only the compressor pump seal was rough. Had inspected solenoids / plungers for any wear all rather good.
Compressor and primary power path is good.
Compressor rebuilt
Valve bloc rebuilt and no notable leaks

After the pressure switch retest - what next - suggestions?
Is there a way to test operation of solenoid module or is it just easier to replace?
All the solenoids are apparently only from 2006 and vehicle only has 130K on it.

Thx for help suggestions
Cheers
 
frozen north 2 said:
'97 P38 had some earlier issues all of a sudden. Got past those and broke down and bought the EAS kicker and Becm blk boxes. Was all good. EAS fault came up a couple times and kicker resolved but... now some major fault apparently - riding in town getting home on bumpers is a ba.. jarring experience.
Tried kicker a couple of times "cleared faults - but just one time I heard the compressor kick in for a couple seconds - last time i heard it.

Before this - no real reoccurring issues. Just some times it seemed compressor ran to much. Some times come out in morning vehicle dropped to enter level. A few times could hear air release from rear just after it was parked. It always adjusted on its own between city and highway driving. Never was the vehicle off balance, front or rear fail or took to long to fill. Recently after it was parked for a few months no issues for a couple weeks of almost daily driving and then progressively the compressor running etc started.

So - will go over what I have done,
Inspected compressor / disconnected from outlet - did the relay 20 jumper by pass and ran - only a little air coming out. So got the X8R kit and rebuilt - dramatic improvement - but not sure what perfect should be - one can still block the air outlet with finger with out much trouble.
Installed compressor Plugged in kicker cleared faults again started it again still four flashing lights and EAS fault and did not hear compressor running.

Had also got the valve block rebuild kit X8R with diaphragm and the pressure switch.
Rebuilt the valve block - which appears to be a 2006 version - part date stamps and several "tested" stickers on it. So has already been replaced / rebuilt.
(didnt replace pressure switch - tested original - open properly when block had no pressure / no continuity)

So through it all back together today - doesn't take much time second time around -
Just to be sure - ran the Becm black box and then the kicker - all communicating all green flashing.
Started it up and EAS / flashing lights that go solid
Went through the whole routine again - and the same result - but this time I heard three high pressure puffs of air - assume through the valve exhaust port as I turned off engine.
Have to re test pressure switch - open - earlier but not sure if it had built up enough pressure for the switch to trigger.
Is a bad pressure switch enough to continue EAS fault - even with kicker "faults cleared"

Will do the "relay by pass" and run compressor for a bit longer and "maybe build some higher pressure - and retest switch.
Guess I can confirm tank pressure by partially opening one of the air lines at block.

What do I know; none of the rebuilt kits were tough to do - existing O rings looked OK but replaced / only the compressor pump seal was rough. Had inspected solenoids / plungers for any wear all rather good.
Compressor and primary power path is good.
Compressor rebuilt
Valve bloc rebuilt and no notable leaks

After the pressure switch retest - what next - suggestions?
Is there a way to test operation of solenoid module or is it just easier to replace?
All the solenoids are apparently only from 2006 and vehicle only has 130K on it.

Thx for help suggestions
Cheers
Click to expand...
Sounds like you have one or more leaking air springs which would be what knackered the compressor. h air springs (air bags) have a design life of 80K miles/8years so if they haven't been replaced I have no doubt they are knackered.
I have never actually heard of a pressure switch failing but if the compressor has been over worked, failure of the thermal trip in the motor is not uncommon.
The valve block is pretty reliable, new O rings and diaphragm is all that is usually needed, Solenoid failure is rare.
 
Yes, the bloc I assumed but just to remove a question mar - but was all very clean / wiring in great shape etc.
Existing O rings etc werent hard or flattened.
How much air / pressure should be coming from the compressor?
Had tested for the thermal couple in compressor.
The rebuild kit definitely improved it and wasnt a challenge to complete but not putting out 90 lbs pressure?
Had suspected the rear air springs were challenged - but is that enough to fault the whole system?
 
P38 EAS - here are a couple twists / changes - played with unit for a couple minutes today.
Started off plugging in the EAS Kicker - cleared / grn flashing lights - started the unit and for a minute EAS indicator lights read it was on entry level going to city driving - then back to flashing lights of doom - but stayed just flashing.
Compressor never started but when I turned off vehicle a single puff of high pressure air came through exhaust port?

Ran it again - just EAS lights flashing and then went to on solid.

So to test pressure switch - ran compressor with the fuse box relay 20 jumper method.
But this time as compressor ran there were progressive puffs of pressurized air came through exhaust port?
So between that and the pressure on air line cutlets - I will assume system is up to pressure?
Tested the pressure switch (RSW Youtube) and I do not have a closed circuit - no continuity through switch with meter -

So do I assume pressure switch is pooched?
I do have a brand new one on hand -
Or are my assumptions incorrect?
Cheers,
 
frozen north 2 said:
P38 EAS - here are a couple twists / changes - played with unit for a couple minutes today.
Started off plugging in the EAS Kicker - cleared / grn flashing lights - started the unit and for a minute EAS indicator lights read it was on entry level going to city driving - then back to flashing lights of doom - but stayed just flashing.
Compressor never started but when I turned off vehicle a single puff of high pressure air came through exhaust port?

Ran it again - just EAS lights flashing and then went to on solid.

So to test pressure switch - ran compressor with the fuse box relay 20 jumper method.
But this time as compressor ran there were progressive puffs of pressurized air came through exhaust port?
So between that and the pressure on air line cutlets - I will assume system is up to pressure?
Tested the pressure switch (RSW Youtube) and I do not have a closed circuit - no continuity through switch with meter -

So do I assume pressure switch is pooched?
I do have a brand new one on hand -
Or are my assumptions incorrect?
Cheers,
Click to expand...
From memory, you should see about 150psi from the compressor.
The compressor will not run automatically with a fault logged in the ECU, the fault has to be cleared with diagnostics. With the RSW EAS software, the compressor can be commanded to run as a test.
 
Datatek said:
From memory, you should see about 150psi from the compressor.
The compressor will not run automatically with a fault logged in the ECU, the fault has to be cleared with diagnostics. With the RSW EAS software, the compressor can be commanded to run as a test.
Click to expand...
THx - yes - thats why I jumped @ relay 20
Rebuilt compressor - looked good but definitely not putting out 150psi maybe 40 - so I guess take out / strip down and see if something or I messed up.
As for RSW / EAS just checking which lap top to commit or track down and buy the suggested options of a HP Stream 7 or Windows 8 tablet.
Definitely allot cheaper option and less risk that committing one of my Dell's.
Cheers
 
If the piston ring & cylinder are good, also check the small o-ring & flat spring metal strip in the pump head.

Air coming from exhaust port with pump running is failed or non-operative diaphragm valve.
 
I was sent wammers old post and am going to go back over the compressor rebuild - see if I messed up something.
The bloc was also rebuilt with the X8 kit O ring and diaphragm replaced.
With the amount of vehicles - complete - I have done in past I dont get how this is a challenge but will look at again.
A couple of the solenoids were originally on so tight I couldnt get off with out risking stripping the heads off. So seeing as the original O rings were actually quite good so I left them - but those were a couple of the middle top.
But from replies - we see what can be tested or results of air coming out the exhaust port.

What is the exhaust port function if everything is operating properly?

I would assume to release excess air from air spring height changes or excess pressure from tank?

The air that just started is coming out now is in short "timed" pressurized blasts when compressor running after I have run the compressor for accumulatively 30 mins.
And havent drained the air pressure from system - but not sure if system is up to pressure (first test) and am not getting continuity / closer of the pressure switch.
But I guess start at compressor - see what sort of air I get coming out of the air line when I disconnect and go from there.
Thx
 
frozen north 2 said:
THx - yes - thats why I jumped @ relay 20
Rebuilt compressor - looked good but definitely not putting out 150psi maybe 40 - so I guess take out / strip down and see if something or I messed up.
As for RSW / EAS just checking which lap top to commit or track down and buy the suggested options of a HP Stream 7 or Windows 8 tablet.
Definitely allot cheaper option and less risk that committing one of my Dell's.
Cheers
Click to expand...
I would steer clear of anything running Win8. Jumping the relay will run the compressor but it will not make the EAS work with a hard fault present.
 
pwood999 said:
If the piston ring & cylinder are good, also check the small o-ring & flat spring metal strip in the pump head.

Air coming from exhaust port with pump running is failed or non-operative diaphragm valve.
Click to expand...
Well - guess will pull compressor and see if I messed something in the rebuild.
Re try that for results and then the block that was also rebuilt.
When I did the block / did each solenoid one at a time to insure no confusion given information available at time.
As well as the diaphragm - printed and referenced the XR8 instruction sheets - but was all pretty obvious.
Thx
 
frozen north 2 said:
Well - guess will pull compressor and see if I messed something in the rebuild.
Re try that for results and then the block that was also rebuilt.
When I did the block / did each solenoid one at a time to insure no confusion given information available at time.
As well as the diaphragm - printed and referenced the XR8 instruction sheets - but was all pretty obvious.
Thx
Click to expand...
Steps - took out compressor - tore it back down & double checked. I had spring metal pair on inlet side backwards and pressure side was correct but was maybe not screwed down tight enough. Lesson in not doing things when to tired.
Air pressure dramatic improvement. Ran it for 6 mins and only when I pulled the bypass power did it send a puff through exhaust?
Will run and soap test block / lines next - ran my hands around and no apparent leaks. But had run compressor and no apparent air pressure build up - got to be going somewhere - compressor didnt sound to struggle / there wasn't back pressure like when finger put on outlet.
 
frozen north 2 said:
THx - yes - thats why I jumped @ relay 20
Rebuilt compressor - looked good but definitely not putting out 150psi maybe 40 - so I guess take out / strip down and see if something or I messed up.
As for RSW / EAS just checking which lap top to commit or track down and buy the suggested options of a HP Stream 7 or Windows 8 tablet.
Definitely allot cheaper option and less risk that committing one of my Dell's.
Cheers
Click to expand...
I run the EASunlock software in a Windows virtual machine on my MacBook Pro but would like something that I could leave in the car so it would be available when I was out & about. The recommended HP Stream 7 Windows 8 tablet is getting a bit old now & looking on eBay a bit rare. I saw on eBay that newer tablets that run Windows 10 or 11 are pretty cheap so I exchanged emails with Storey Wilson who said that that any Windows 10 or Windows 11 tablet should work just fine & that there should not be any concerns about minimum requirements in terms of speed or performance with the tablet. Although the USB interface is a possible issue & that I would most likely need an OTG converter cable.

I have just purchased this Windows 11 tablet for just £74.99 & am awaiting delivery.
www.ebay.co.uk

HP ElitePad TABLET PC WINDOWS 11 PRO G2-1000 HSTNN-C78C with Gorilla Glass 64GB | eBay

HP Elitepad 10.1" Tablet PC 4GB/64GB. HP ElitePad 1000 G2 MODEL HSTNN-C78C WINDOWS 11 PRO. 10.1" Full HD Capacative Touch Screen with Gorilla Glass 3. 4GB RAM / 64GB Internal Storage. Windows 11 Professional (latest 2024 upgrade).
www.ebay.co.uk
 
Last edited:
Thankyou for checking with Storey and passing along. I am so lap top "fluent" / comfortable am / was leery / unfamiliar of a tablet
Assumed needed a Win10 - 11 from other posts. Have a sort of elite puter buddy I was going to ask - chances are he has something laying around office. Some of this just consumes such time
God I hope I don't need to leave it in the vehicle. I'm only the second owner and apart from some straight forward "house cleaning" projects (brake pads, door locks, bulbs, new windshield & tires - mostly painless) when I first got it four years ago.
I have not had any issues - well one issue same time last year and that was a slow batt drop / RF? issue but totally resolved.
Then this EAS crash. The P38 is funny - sometimes it just takes taking the battery out for a while resolves issues.
I just didn't want to drag one of my pricey pro evrything Dells out in the driveway. Or - not to be dismissive - download a program that is "not main stream" to a high function lap top.
And yes the cabling issue - I haven't even seen a lap top in 4 yrs that has a serial port.
I have a 6 yr old dell with every connection and built in reader that I am rebuilding to take and leave at lake.
Have a great weekend, Cheers
 
frozen north 2 said:
'97 P38 had some earlier issues all of a sudden. Got past those and broke down and bought the EAS kicker and Becm blk boxes. Was all good. EAS fault came up a couple times and kicker resolved but... now some major fault apparently - riding in town getting home on bumpers is a ba.. jarring experience.
Tried kicker a couple of times "cleared faults - but just one time I heard the compressor kick in for a couple seconds - last time i heard it.

Before this - no real reoccurring issues. Just some times it seemed compressor ran to much. Some times come out in morning vehicle dropped to enter level. A few times could hear air release from rear just after it was parked. It always adjusted on its own between city and highway driving. Never was the vehicle off balance, front or rear fail or took to long to fill. Recently after it was parked for a few months no issues for a couple weeks of almost daily driving and then progressively the compressor running etc started.

So - will go over what I have done,
Inspected compressor / disconnected from outlet - did the relay 20 jumper by pass and ran - only a little air coming out. So got the X8R kit and rebuilt - dramatic improvement - but not sure what perfect should be - one can still block the air outlet with finger with out much trouble.
Installed compressor Plugged in kicker cleared faults again started it again still four flashing lights and EAS fault and did not hear compressor running.

Had also got the valve block rebuild kit X8R with diaphragm and the pressure switch.
Rebuilt the valve block - which appears to be a 2006 version - part date stamps and several "tested" stickers on it. So has already been replaced / rebuilt.
(didnt replace pressure switch - tested original - open properly when block had no pressure / no continuity)

So through it all back together today - doesn't take much time second time around -
Just to be sure - ran the Becm black box and then the kicker - all communicating all green flashing.
Started it up and EAS / flashing lights that go solid
Went through the whole routine again - and the same result - but this time I heard three high pressure puffs of air - assume through the valve exhaust port as I turned off engine.
Have to re test pressure switch - open - earlier but not sure if it had built up enough pressure for the switch to trigger.
Is a bad pressure switch enough to continue EAS fault - even with kicker "faults cleared"

Will do the "relay by pass" and run compressor for a bit longer and "maybe build some higher pressure - and retest switch.
Guess I can confirm tank pressure by partially opening one of the air lines at block.

What do I know; none of the rebuilt kits were tough to do - existing O rings looked OK but replaced / only the compressor pump seal was rough. Had inspected solenoids / plungers for any wear all rather good.
Compressor and primary power path is good.
Compressor rebuilt
Valve bloc rebuilt and no notable leaks

After the pressure switch retest - what next - suggestions?
Is there a way to test operation of solenoid module or is it just easier to replace?
All the solenoids are apparently only from 2006 and vehicle only has 130K on it.

Thx for help suggestions
Cheers
Click to expand...

If compressor doesn't want to run but you can force it the thermal switch may be fried. Common if it has been running a lot with a weak seal or feeding a leak.


@kurtjohnson10 had a compressor in the For Sale section. Might be worth sending him a message. A Dunlop compressor off Rimmer Bros is about £300.


For leaks I put her on the highest setting then pull the delay relay by the EAS module and leave her overnight to see what drops.
 
nigelbb said:
I run the EASunlock software in a Windows virtual machine on my MacBook Pro but would like something that I could leave in the car so it would be available when I was out & about. The recommended HP Stream 7 Windows 8 tablet is getting a bit old now & looking on eBay a bit rare. I saw on eBay that newer tablets that run Windows 10 or 11 are pretty cheap so I exchanged emails with Storey Wilson who said that that any Windows 10 or Windows 11 tablet should work just fine & that there should not be any concerns about minimum requirements in terms of speed or performance with the tablet. Although the USB interface is a possible issue & that I would most likely need an OTG converter cable.

I have just purchased this Windows 11 tablet for just £74.99 & am awaiting delivery.
www.ebay.co.uk

HP ElitePad TABLET PC WINDOWS 11 PRO G2-1000 HSTNN-C78C with Gorilla Glass 64GB | eBay

HP Elitepad 10.1" Tablet PC 4GB/64GB. HP ElitePad 1000 G2 MODEL HSTNN-C78C WINDOWS 11 PRO. 10.1" Full HD Capacative Touch Screen with Gorilla Glass 3. 4GB RAM / 64GB Internal Storage. Windows 11 Professional (latest 2024 upgrade).
www.ebay.co.uk
Click to expand...
I have a cheap Chuwi Win 10 tablet, it runs the EAS software just fine using a USB to serial adaptor.
 
Grrrrrr said:
If compressor doesn't want to run but you can force it the thermal switch may be fried. Common if it has been running a lot with a weak seal or feeding a leak.


@kurtjohnson10 had a compressor in the For Sale section. Might be worth sending him a message. A Dunlop compressor off Rimmer Bros is about £300.


For leaks I put her on the highest setting then pull the delay relay by the EAS module and leave her overnight to see what drops.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the recommendation mate, I have a valve block and Compressor available if anyone needs one
 
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