EAS, please, need help.

Hi everyone, new to this site and RR, have had my 2000 4.6 for a few months now and have enjoyed most of that time driving her around but at the moment I am beginning to lose the will to live. Since owner ship I have changed all air bags, exhaust, all fluids replaced, magnecors , and many other items along the way have put a lot of time and money into her, any way my problem is with my EAS, whilst driving a noticed the front end starting to drop then rise again and the front end dancing around whilst stationary, the comp was running hot so decided to lock her into highway mode with the inhibit switch whilst I done some reading up on my problem whilst in highway mode she was fine, no front end action and the comp was nice and cool. So, so far I have rebuilt valve block and comp with parts from landyair air and have swapped my driver for a known good one and have also cleaned and swapped around my front sensors, checked for leaks and all seems ok there. Just this week I purchased the EAS cable and software and plugged it all in, checked for faults, had two FR sensor and FL sensor signal incorrect so cleared the faults, drove her around for a bit went through all height settings a few times, no faults returned, think it may be when I swapped them around that they registered a soft fault, I then checked the height values and all they were was one bit out at each height setting but when I looked on the sensor height screen the front right was reading 86 and the front right 96, sorry to have lost my way here a bit, what my problem is, is that the front end still does the same, not nearly as bad but it's still there, my main question is would that reading of 86/96 be my problem? Is the front end hunting to find a happy medium? Was going to do some calibrating this morning only to open bonnet and find coolant around overflow pipe at rad, the proxy nipple has snapped of so a new rad is now been ordered ( more money ) . Can the EAS gods please help me, desperate to get this sorted before I suck on one of her exhaust when the engine is running!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The faults for the front sensors are just that. Now you've cleaned the contacts, re check for faults. If it gives the same you'll need new sensors.
The height numbers on the software will be different but you will need to recalibrate with the software and tape measure from top of wheel arch to top of wheel to get everything set up correctly.

Hi and thanks for your quick reply, I have driven the car around for a couple of days now and quickly plugged in the EAS software again this morning with just the ignition on the second position and it did show a fault which was vehicle has moved but nothing concerning the front sensors? would a reading difference of 10 cause the problem, she does sit a little on one side and when measured there was a difference of around 15mm. would this cause the front end to play up.

Vehicle has moved just means that the car has adjusted its height since you were last in it. Nothing to worry about.
Sounds like you just need to recalibrate with the software and with a tape measure outside. The correct measurements for each level are on the forum here somewhere if you do a search. I do have them written down somewhere; I'll have a hunt around and see if I can dig them out.

Wammers in his sticky "how to" has the measures for calibration blocks. They are quite easy to do and will save you a lot of effort from trying to calibrate with tape.
Check this site also:
Air Suspension

I had your same problem and since calibration everything is ok.
Not saying that your problem has the same solution as mine but its a place to start.

Many thanks for your valuable input, I am hoping it is in need of proper recalibrating to get it sorted once she is up and running again I will spend some time on it, Many thanks.

PPP38vouge said:

Many thanks for your valuable input, I am hoping it is in need of proper recalibrating to get it sorted once she is up and running again I will spend some time on it, Many thanks.

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Due to tolerances, the sensor numbers do not relate directly to height. When you calibrate, adjust in small steps,go too far and it will go do default settings and you will have to start Again!

Ok thanks for that will search for correct heights and give it a go, first time at this task so will take time, think I read somewhere that the rule of thumb is 2 bits increase at a time. Thanks all for your input. Paul.

Hi,
Just a thought, the suspension does try to level itself when stationary. This is normal behavior. Are you sure you now have a problem?

Hi, it's not the front end action that I am too concerned about whilst stationary it's the up and down movement whilst actually driving which in turn causes the comp to run far too long and getting hot. With one front corner fairly lower than the other what I can make out I think she is hunting up and down to find the correct level which I think causes the pressure to change in the air tank which then causes the comp too run far too often. I think that's what is going on, if I can get the calibration to equal both fronts and rears I hope this will sort it? What do you think? Any help very much appreciated.

PPP38vouge said:

Hi, it's not the front end action that I am too concerned about whilst stationary it's the up and down movement whilst actually driving which in turn causes the comp to run far too long and getting hot. With one front corner fairly lower than the other what I can make out I think she is hunting up and down to find the correct level which I think causes the pressure to change in the air tank which then causes the comp too run far too often. I think that's what is going on, if I can get the calibration to equal both fronts and rears I hope this will sort it? What do you think? Any help very much appreciated.

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Just get all the heights correct and then see where you are It can take a while as adjusting one corner affects all the others to some degree. I use a stick with the heights marked on it rather than a tape, it's quicker and easier.

Hi datatek, glad your on board, excellent idea about the stick will do that, I did worry about using a tape measure as they do tend to bend a bit. Will not get chance to do callibration now until next weekend cos of my radiator deciding to lose its overflow nipple, will let you know of my findings once done. Many thanks, Paul.

You can do calibration with laptop and lead without running engine.

I had a moving car that was constantly trying to self-level whilst driving. It turned out that 2 of the air lines to the block were the wrong way around. It must have confused the hell out of it trying to figure out what it should be doing.

It still dances around at the lights or anytime I'm stopped with the engine running and I have got a spare driver pack to test, but I figured that its probably normal...

Nik