EAS NRV O-Ring Size?

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
wammers said:
Cone on NRVs wears, also hole it fits in wears oval. So if you fit soft red O'rings they deform and leak. Ok everywhere else but NOT on NRVs. Black Nitrile only for NRVs.
Click to expand...

The thing is.. my P38 was on coils for most of its life....and as such the NRVs I have dont look too bad. They have most of their cones nearly fully intact with only slight wear compared to what Ive seen others refurbish with success. Also the holes look just fine with no indication of wear. I have fitted an ebay kit for the orings. Black nitrile orings is what its advertised as... But it was a cheap kit so who knows...Also the new nrv orings were installed with no grease as recommended.

I definitely have signs of failing NRVs though..I have some height hunting issues and also the dreaded, door open,compressor on, with height rising. I then close the door and the car adjusts down and then slowly back up again when compresser kicks on.
 
Last edited:
kurtjohnson10 said:
Yes mate, but i do not ship to the USA - sorry
Click to expand...

Please!! make an exception, one time? I would be glad to pay you in advance..Or whatever we have to do to make it happen..

I would really love to eliminate this problem for good..

Pretty please help me out! Please.. ;)
 
P38Rover said:
The thing is.. my P38 was on coils for most of its life....and as such the NRVs I have dont look too bad. They have most of their cones nearly fully intact with only slight wear compared to what Ive seen others refurbish with success. Also the holes look just fine with no indication of wear. I have fitted an ebay kit for the orings. Black nitrile orings is what its advertised as... But it was a cheap kit so who knows...Also the new nrv orings were installed with no grease as recommended.

I definitely have signs of failing NRVs though..I have some height hunting issues and also the dreaded, door open,compressor on, with height rising. I then close the door and the car adjusts down and then slowly back up again when compresser kicks on.
Click to expand...
Check the white connectors in the left side front footwell behind the A post kick panel for corrosion. cut the connectors out and solder the wires. Cures a multitude of problems.
 
Datatek said:
Check the white connectors in the left side front footwell behind the A post kick panel for corrosion. cut the connectors out and solder the wires. Cures a multitude of problems.
Click to expand...
Because my switch has been working great with no issues I didnt think I needed to do this. But I will certainly get it done tomorrow and report my findings. Thanks for all your help
 
P38Rover said:
Because my switch has been working great with no issues I didnt think I needed to do this. But I will certainly get it done tomorrow and report my findings. Thanks for all your help
Click to expand...

There was major corrosion on most of the leads. Very green...

So I cut the plugs, soldered, heat shrink, and wrapped it to look like a factory job. However everything still seems exactly normal :confused:. Besides some slow dancing and some airloss. I might try to take off the inlet and exhaust valves and check them for proper sealing?? I think I can do that without removing the block...

Does anyone know the exact size for the NRV cone orings? I might try to source some spare orings locally before I open that part up again.
 
Last edited:
The pins where the driver pack plus in inside the EAS box have been known to cause issues. Cleaning the connectors there and squeezing the pins so they grip well might help.

Other thing is diagnostics. Might be you have a height sensor with dirt on a track causing issues.

Have you left overnight with delay timer removed to check for leaks?
 
P38Rover said:
There was major corrosion on most of the leads. Very green...

So I cut the plugs, soldered, heat shrink, and wrapped it to look like a factory job. However everything still seems exactly normal :confused:. Besides some slow dancing and some airloss. I might try to take off the inlet and exhaust valves and check them for proper sealing?? I think I can do that without removing the block...

Does anyone know the exact size for the NRV cone orings? I might try to source some spare orings locally before I open that part up again.
Click to expand...
I'm pretty sure the problem is not the NRV's.
Dancing could be corroded connections on height sensors or a duff sensor.
Do the check with the EAS relay removed.
a further check to narrow down a leak is to get a set of Schrader valves, remove the airlines to the airbags from the valve block and fit the valves to the lines, use an air line to blow up each corner, about 60psi is needed, measure the height on each corner from wheel centre to wheel arch, leave for 24 hours and re-check the heights, any movement will be obvious. If nothing moves, the leak is in the valve block, if it drops, the leak is in the line of the corner/corners that drop or the airbag itself.
 
First of all, thanks for all your replies! It is much appreciated.

I have done the delay timer relay mod. So height changes wont occur unless the key is inserted and in position 1 or 2.

Since the valve block rebuild, I have been having the fronts equally gaining 25mm over 12hours and the rears losing 35mm-45mm. The rear left one drops a little more usually.. Thus far, so much leak detection solution has been used that there is a blue buildup of dried soap visible on most everything EAS. At least everything smells really clean:).
No external leaks have been visible yet. Except a very small one on the tank line,that I will lose about 20psi in 12hours.

A few weeks before connecting all the electrical EAS components. I fitted brass compression tees and brass schrader valves to all corners, and also fitted a pressure gauge on the reservoir tank line. During those initial weeks of manual EAS use, the truck sat proud and would lose maybe.... 25-35mm in a week. So I believe my lines to be in good shape.

One issue I might be having is the "spread" across the axle. As I understand it, the fronts should be within 2 bits of one another for braking purposes.. I have no idea what the value of two bits are in the RSW software. But I have them set equally in the front for all heights, even though the heights measured from wheel hub to fender are not equal.. Now heres where we might have a weird problem...I had to rig up a new mounting location for one of the rear sensor arms, so the value on the rear arm is about 4-7 points different from side to side on all heights. But this is in the rear and the fronts are slow dancing and running the compressor excessively. Could this really be my issue? How sensitive is the EAS ecu anyways?

I will try to re-clean and pinch down the connections on the driver pack plug. And maybe even swap sensors side to side.

Thanks again for all your suggestions
 
Last edited:
P38Rover said:
First of all, thanks for all your replies! It is much appreciated.

I have done the delay timer relay mod. So height changes wont occur unless the key is inserted and in position 1 or 2.

Since the valve block rebuild, I have been having the fronts equally gaining 25mm over 12hours and the rears losing 35mm-45mm. The rear left one drops a little more usually.. Thus far, so much leak detection solution has been used that there is a blue buildup of dried soap visible on most everything EAS. At least everything smells really clean:).
No external leaks have been visible yet. Except a very small one on the tank line,that I will lose about 20psi in 12hours.

A few weeks before connecting all the electrical EAS components. I fitted brass compression tees and brass schrader valves to all corners, and also fitted a pressure gauge on the reservoir tank line. During those initial weeks of manual EAS use, the truck sat proud and would lose maybe.... 25-35mm in a week. So I believe my lines to be in good shape.

One issue I might be having is the "spread" across the axle. As I understand it, the fronts should be within 2 bits of one another for braking purposes.. I have no idea what the value of two bits are in the RSW software. But I have them set equally in the front for all heights, even though the heights measured from wheel hub to fender are not equal.. Now heres where we might have a weird problem...I had to rig up a new mounting location for one of the rear sensor arms, so the value on the rear arm is about 4-7 points different from side to side on all heights. But this is in the rear and the fronts are slow dancing and running the compressor excessively. Could this really be my issue? How sensitive is the EAS ecu anyways?

I will try to re-clean and pinch down the connections on the driver pack plug. And maybe even swap sensors side to side.

Thanks again for all your suggestions
Click to expand...

The only thing that can cause the fronts to rise when the car is standing unused is the inlet valve leaking high pressure air from the tank and that being forced past the front solenoid valves. The suspension should never go up with car switched off only down.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

ar1g3
P38A Radiator drain plug o-ring troubles
Replies
7
Views
2K
ar1g3
ar1g3
A
P38A Heater matrix o-ring / pipes - advice needed !
2
Replies
23
Views
2K
romanrob
R
P
P38A Range Rover P38 Valve Block Rebuild/
2
Replies
33
Views
3K
Googs
Googs
Graculus
L405 Engine oil leak / fumes in cabin
Replies
10
Views
2K
marjon
marjon
F
P38A EAS -prior minor issues then failure - no real accumulating indicators
Replies
15
Views
2K
kurtjohnson10
kurtjohnson10
Back
Top