P38A EAS & Nanocom - not talking to each other!

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8v_chris

8v_chris

Member
Posts
61
Location
Northern Ireland
Hi all, my EAS has been acting odd (a relative term) recently and I can’t seem to work out what the issue is. I was having all sorts of Nanocom issues across many systems in the car a few months ago so I removed the white connector blocks in the footwells and had the wires soldered. Everything worked well and the systems I couldn’t talk to all worked again, Nanocom spoke to everything with no comms errors! Happy days!

Fast forward to a week ago and I was bringing a trailer back and I got all sorts of warnings and bongs - 35 mph limit - and got the four lights on the EAS switch. Got home and found fuse 33 blown, fixed that but now when the Nanocom gets plugged in all the various ECUs can be read, except for the EAS ECU. The odd thing was that I didn’t get the usual “no communication” type error or the “working” type message when loading data but instead got nothing. The screen where the various errors or data etc should appear pops up but the system just crashes. I can’t return back the previous menu and instead have to unplug it and restart the Nanocom. Again, this only happens on the EAS ECU so I figured the ECU was toast.

£20 later and a known good one arrived and when fitted the system burst back into life and worked quite happily, and it’s been ok every since. However, I still have the same Nanocom issue so I don’t think it’s an ECU problem but maybe wiring or a bad fuse somewhere but as everything is working surely there would be a hint of that elsewhere? As I said, everything works as expected except comms with the ECU/Nanocom but with no errors or hint as to where the problem might lie I’m stumped.

EDIT - 95’ RR GEMS 4.0 SE (very few electrical toys)

Would anyone have any points that you think would be a good start? Thank you!!
 
8v_chris said:
Hi all, my EAS has been acting odd (a relative term) recently and I can’t seem to work out what the issue is. I was having all sorts of Nanocom issues across many systems in the car a few months ago so I removed the white connector blocks in the footwells and had the wires soldered. Everything worked well and the systems I couldn’t talk to all worked again, Nanocom spoke to everything with no comms errors! Happy days!

Fast forward to a week ago and I was bringing a trailer back and I got all sorts of warnings and bongs - 35 mph limit - and got the four lights on the EAS switch. Got home and found fuse 33 blown, fixed that but now when the Nanocom gets plugged in all the various ECUs can be read, except for the EAS ECU. The odd thing was that I didn’t get the usual “no communication” type error or the “working” type message when loading data but instead got nothing. The screen where the various errors or data etc should appear pops up but the system just crashes. I can’t return back the previous menu and instead have to unplug it and restart the Nanocom. Again, this only happens on the EAS ECU so I figured the ECU was toast.

£20 later and a known good one arrived and when fitted the system burst back into life and worked quite happily, and it’s been ok every since. However, I still have the same Nanocom issue so I don’t think it’s an ECU problem but maybe wiring or a bad fuse somewhere but as everything is working surely there would be a hint of that elsewhere? As I said, everything works as expected except comms with the ECU/Nanocom but with no errors or hint as to where the problem might lie I’m stumped.

EDIT - 95’ RR GEMS 4.0 SE (very few electrical toys)

Would anyone have any points that you think would be a good start? Thank you!!
Click to expand...
The Nanocom firmware may have been corrupted, this can happen if for instance the engine is started with the Nanocom running. If there is another P38 nearby, you could use it to check the Nanocom. Otherwise check the OBD connector for corrosion, not just the front but the back too as wires can corrode off completely.
 
Datatek said:
The Nanocom firmware may have been corrupted, this can happen if for instance the engine is started with the Nanocom running. If there is another P38 nearby, you could use it to check the Nanocom. Otherwise check the OBD connector for corrosion, not just the front but the back too as wires can corrode off completely.
Click to expand...
Unfortunately there isn’t another p38 near me that I know the owner so i might have to knock a door or two! As for the obd plug it’s fine, I’ve had it apart and it looks grand. Also checked the plug for the ecu but it’s in good order too. Reading the nanocom site I think I’ll flash the reader and see what it does for it, can’t harm it I suppose.
 
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8v_chris said:
Unfortunately there isn’t another p38 near me that I know the owner so i might have to knock a door or two! As for the obd plug it’s fine, I’ve had it apart and it looks grand. Also checked the plug for the ecu but it’s in good order too. Do you know if I can reset the nanocom myself via the site or do I need to contact nanocom?
Click to expand...
If the Nanocom firmware is scrambled, I believe it will have to be sent back to Blackbox Solutions.
In the meantime you could download the free RSW EAS software assuming you have a windows laptop, just needs a cable and maybe a USB to serial adaptor.
 
Strange behaviour indeed. Just to clarify you are running the nonocom with ignition in position 2 or with car started? Generally all except BECM needs this for the nanocom.

Mine occasionaly refuses to go back a menu. Could be a touchscreen issue? However this behaviour only appears in the EAS menu for me.

That said, it does sound like there is some corruption/issue and likely has to go back to blackbox.
 
rrdude said:
Strange behaviour indeed. Just to clarify you are running the nonocom with ignition in position 2 or with car started? Generally all except BECM needs this for the nanocom.

Mine occasionaly refuses to go back a menu. Could be a touchscreen issue? However this behaviour only appears in the EAS menu for me.

That said, it does sound like there is some corruption/issue and likely has to go back to blackbox.
Click to expand...
Yes, I’ve tried with just ignition on and with engine running. It’s very odd to not have an error from the system saying it can’t communicate or some other fault. The logic aspect of the unit seems fine as it can speak to all the other systems in the RR so I don’t know what would have triggered an EAS specific fault. I’m going to try to update firmware this morning and see what that does for it.
 
FYI there's three micro-controllers inside the Nanocom. Blackbox explained this when mine went faulty a few months back. My understanding is one does the system & screen, but the other two talk to different ECU's.

I tried re-flashing the firmware (was already on latest), but this failed. Had to send it back, but the whole repair plus shipping each way was only two weeks.

Make sure you follow the BB process for Customs Declaration to the letter, other wise you will get a bill for duties !!
 
8v_chris said:
Yes, I’ve tried with just ignition on and with engine running. It’s very odd to not have an error from the system saying it can’t communicate or some other fault. The logic aspect of the unit seems fine as it can speak to all the other systems in the RR so I don’t know what would have triggered an EAS specific fault. I’m going to try to update firmware this morning and see what that does for it.
Click to expand...
Btw. I have also seen no connectivity with EAS when the delay (under the LHS seat) is taken out of the equation (say is stuff/by-passed)
 
pwood999 said:
FYI there's three micro-controllers inside the Nanocom. Blackbox explained this when mine went faulty a few months back. My understanding is one does the system & screen, but the other two talk to different ECU's.

I tried re-flashing the firmware (was already on latest), but this failed. Had to send it back, but the whole repair plus shipping each way was only two weeks.

Make sure you follow the BB process for Customs Declaration to the letter, other wise you will get a bill for duties !!
Click to expand...

Can I ask what where the symptoms of yours acting up? I've both updated and then factory reset mine but its not behaving any differently when plugged into the car. Odd thing was that when I accessed all of the various ECUs when plugged into the pc they all threw up the "no communication" error including the EAS so I'm wondering now if its some sort of wiring fault rather than with the Nanocom itself. I did wonder if the fault was with the Nanocom surely I'd see the same problem replicated when I plugged it into the PC.

rrdude said:
Btw. I have also seen no connectivity with EAS when the delay (under the LHS seat) is taken out of the equation (say is stuff/by-passed)
Click to expand...

Ran out there and tried it with both the relay currently fitted and also with the spare one I have and got the same result with both of them, thanks though!
 
Mine had issues going from main menu into specific ECU sections. It was a hardware fault that BBS repaired. I also found that although the diagnostic connector was clean, there was corrosion on the wires where they are crimped. I replaced the complete connector.

Regarding your issues, do you have the proper Delay Relay fitted, or a standard relay ? EAS diagnostics need to triger the relay to reset the ECU, because entering diagnostic mode requires a specific boot sequence to be sent to the ECU.
 
pwood999 said:
Mine had issues going from main menu into specific ECU sections. It was a hardware fault that BBS repaired. I also found that although the diagnostic connector was clean, there was corrosion on the wires where they are crimped. I replaced the complete connector.

Regarding your issues, do you have the proper Delay Relay fitted, or a standard relay ? EAS diagnostics need to triger the relay to reset the ECU, because entering diagnostic mode requires a specific boot sequence to be sent to the ECU.
Click to expand...
It’s got ANR4387 fitted which I guess is the proper one? I’ve a spare one here too that came out of a breaker but when I swap them about it doesn’t change anything. I checked the connections in where they are crimped too by plugging in the OBD lead and looking for continuity at the Nanocom end all the way from the ECU plug and they seem to be fine as I thought that was maybe an issue.
 
Might be worth checking the Nanocom Green cable is ok. You only need the 15-pin to Green from this table. Check for continuity & wiggle the connectors.
 

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Get a copy of EAS Unlock & serial cable. If that also doesn't connect, then the issue has to be the car.

It must either be wiring issues, or the timer-relay is not working correctly.

1) starting with ignition on (doesn't matter if it's running or not), this engages the relay and powers the ECU.
2) connect Nanocom and enter EAS diagnostic screen & select Faults, Setting or Inputs.
3) as soon as to select one of the menus, Nanocom toggles the timer-relay via pin-1 on the OBD connector.
4) the relay toggle reboots the EAS ECU, and then during boot up Nanocom sends the "enter diagnostics" sequence.
5) at the same time, the reboot causes the BECM to send 3 Beeps & EAS fault message to the instruments.

So are you getting the Beeps when trying to enter Nanocom menus ?
 
pwood999 said:
Get a copy of EAS Unlock & serial cable. If that also doesn't connect, then the issue has to be the car.

It must either be wiring issues, or the timer-relay is not working correctly.

1) starting with ignition on (doesn't matter if it's running or not), this engages the relay and powers the ECU.
2) connect Nanocom and enter EAS diagnostic screen & select Faults, Setting or Inputs.
3) as soon as to select one of the menus, Nanocom toggles the timer-relay via pin-1 on the OBD connector.
4) the relay toggle reboots the EAS ECU, and then during boot up Nanocom sends the "enter diagnostics" sequence.
5) at the same time, the reboot causes the BECM to send 3 Beeps & EAS fault message to the instruments.

So are you getting the Beeps when trying to enter Nanocom menus ?
Click to expand...
No issue with continuity. Each time I enter or exit a menu on Nanocom I get the beep from the unit but once I click on faults etc within the EAS section i don’t get data - it still beeps when I press buttons to the unit but doesn’t respond. There are no flashes of lights or warning messages etc from the dash when entering the EAS menu or selecting anything from it.
 
In that case, the Nanocom is toggling pin-1 to the timer-relay, but data communications is broken. There's two ways to prove if it's the Nano or the ECU:

1) try it on another P38. (Any P38 will do. Can be Gems, Thor or Diseasel because license doesn't matter for EAS.)
2) get a copy of EAS Unlock and try that.

If both fail, then it's ECU or wiring fault. If the car is ok, 1 & 2 will show where the issue is.
 
Can you cycle relay/eas via obd port using a small jumper - Pin 1 (relay) and Pin 5 (Ground) on obd2 port (click/show slow 35 etc).

As with all jumpers be very careful you don't inadvertently touch/contact anywhere else.
 
rrdude said:
Can you cycle relay/eas via obd port using a small jumper - Pin 1 (relay) and Pin 5 (Ground) on obd2 port (click/show slow 35 etc).

As with all jumpers be very careful you don't inadvertently touch/contact anywhere else.
Click to expand...
I haven’t tried to jump anything out of fear of damaging anything. I always imagined the relay should click but it doesn’t make any sound and it can’t be felt clicking if held when trying to access the ecu. If I did jump between pin 1 and pin 5 on the obd port what should I see/hear? (aside from blue smoke?!) I don’t want to trigger a hard fault I can’t clear.
 
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No need to jumper anything. You already get beeps indicating eas reset when starting eas diagnostics so pin 1 is working.

The problem is data communication.
 
pwood999 said:
No need to jumper anything. You already get beeps indicating eas reset when starting eas diagnostics so pin 1 is working.

The problem is data communication.
Click to expand...
Are you sure, the way I read that is that the op gets beeps from nanocom not the three bongs from the inst cluster saying eas has been rebooted.
That and the fact the relay doesn't click makes me think pin 1 isn't trigerring.
I have been known to be wrong occasionally though..... .
 
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